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case sealer

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6K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  alex1916v 
#1 ·
Which the best case sealer to use for engines case halves??
Ive been told permatex but which one is the best to use..
I ideally want a paint on sealer rather than a silicon type,as i dont want the same problem i had with my 2007 motor.
 
#2 ·
As long as you keep it on the outer edge of the case sealing face and keep the bead of sealer small (3mm or so diameter) I reckon you will be fine using most silicon based sealers.
Permatex is another good sealer to use as it remains pliable.
Both types have there merits.
 
#4 ·
I've never actually used permatex so I'm not sure.
If you decide to use silkaflex you can dispense it using a large syringe (50ml)
This will give you a small enough bead and allow you to control the flow of sealant far better than with a mastic gun.
Hope this has helped
 
#5 · (Edited)
The stuff i've always used is a marine type brush on sealer looks like brown snot sticky a hell we use a volvo penta version but i think its made by loctite
Its the best metal to metal sealer i've found never have any problems with it and it allows the surfaces to be tight against eachother
"Loctite gasket sealent 30517"
Trav
 
#8 ·
Curil K2 is lovely stuff to use, I recently split apart and re-lubed & re-assembled a newly reconditioned-engine that had stood for a few years, no mess and appears to seal really well.
It doesn't ever harden so won't cause problems like a silicone-type sealer.
The only trouble is getting hold of the damn stuff as the only readily-available source seems to be on German Ebay, so relatively high carriage charges.

;)
 
#11 ·
Curil.

For gawd's sake do not use any sort of silicone, sikaflex or anything like that.

For 2 reasons -

1 - it squidges into the case and the little silicone wormies get everywhere and can easily get into the oil passageways when the engine runs. You can also block oil return holes resulting in blown crank seals or blowing oil out of the pulley hole.

2 - It has a thickness. This means that the 2 case halves will not actually fully meet, they will be held apart very slightly. This means the bearings are not clamped up as fully as they should be and also there is a gap for oil pressure to escape from.

Dave.
 
#12 ·
Curil.

For gawd's sake do not use any sort of silicone, sikaflex or anything like that.

For 2 reasons -

1 - it squidges into the case and the little silicone wormies get everywhere and can easily get into the oil passageways when the engine runs. You can also block oil return holes resulting in blown crank seals or blowing oil out of the pulley hole.

2 - It has a thickness. This means that the 2 case halves will not actually fully meet, they will be held apart very slightly. This means the bearings are not clamped up as fully as they should be and also there is a gap for oil pressure to escape from.

Dave.
I've never had a problem personally but I can see your point.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The above link is to the people I bought my K2 from......
The stuff comes in a tube and is quite runny, the solvent in it (whetever it is) is very inert and doesn't seem to evaporate, I had an amount expressed from the tube and the next day it was perfectly fine to use still.
When it comes out of the tube it tends to separate into a dark yellow goo and a clear yellow liquid , but a quick mix with a paint brush tip results in a caramel-coloured runny paste.
I applied it with a very fine artists brush onto the case halves etc and it went on really thin.
Having used Blue Hylomar many years ago for the same application I'd say the Curil K2 is far superior, Laurie Pettit uses and recommends it which is why I went for it in the first place.
Now I can see why.....

;)
 
#25 ·
Another vote for Kuril K2 from me....its whats known as a "zero thickness" sealant....fills any small fissures and cavities in the machined case faces to give as close to a zero-leak metal-metal seal as possible.

Goes on like a thin varnish.
 
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