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Old 10-03-2012, 01:33 AM   #1
Kank
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Default My AAZ conversion

At last I have done my conversion.

Here's what I did

P reg golf 1.9TD AAZ - later style injection pump with all the extra wires.

My T25 1.6 CS diesel

Right so I pull the old engine out but before I did I labeled all the water hoses and electric wires (top tip saves so much time later)

Parts I removed from my CS engine to use on the AAZ

Engine support bars
Sump + oil filler neck
Oil pump
Throttle arm
Thermostat cover
Cooling hoses
Flywheel and clutch
Back box

On the AAZ I'm using the standard turbo and manifold but I'm using a AHF inlet manifold and a intercooler from a Renault 5 GT Turbo.

Every gasket that can be replaced bar the head gasket I have changed and for the sake of 40 its well worth it, I'm also using a 80c thermostat to help with the cooling.

Now I removed the sump oil pump, flywheel and clutch inlet and turbo manifolds, thermostat cover and all the cooling hoses from the AAZ.

Turbo + Intercooler

I reindexed the turbo so the drain hole is facing downwards, to do this I just undid the 4 bolt on the side stuck it in a vice and using a soft hammer tapped it round.
I cut the standard oil drain pipe and removed the fexi part (I had 2 of these) I rebent it so it will point in the correct direction, on the bottom one I cut into it rebent it then welded it back up, in the sump I marked where I thought the best location would be drilled 3 holes and then mounted it with a little sealer on the sump. I will be using some oil pipe and clamps with a support bracket off the turbo.
I removed the EGR and blocked the inlet manifold off.
I rebent the oil feed pipe slightly job done.
The wastegate actuator has 2 pipes 1 big and black (rubber) this goes to the turbo banjo bolt second smaller pipe used to go to the EGR system this is now not fitted on mine so I left 3" of pipe on the it (just dangling down) do not block this pipe up it's now a breather pipe!

I'm using a Renault 5 GT Turbo intercooler and I have found it fits inside the rear left panel (behind the light cluster) great if you remove the metal tray (battery tray) I did this on mine as it had rot in it so I had to replace it anyway I simply cut it out and added some extra support to the panels. then made a mount up to hold the intercooler.
A few bits of stainless steel and some turbo rubber hoses have sorted the intercooler out I have made 1 pipe so that it bolts onto the inlet manifold (as per the AHF setup).

Now when I start it up it had an air leak on one of the intercooler pipes, it made a whistle sound from the exhaust! simple check of all the pipes and then it was running 100%

To see how much boost you are running up a T piece on the pipe which goes from the fuel pump to inlet manifold and stick a boost guage on it.

Exhaust

I got two 90 degree bends in 2" mild steel and using the standard back box (CS) and the AAZ down pipe I made my exhaust up I cut the cat off and cut the excess off the 90's before welding it all back together again it sits 1" lower then the sump but thats not too much of a problem.

Water Cooling

Now the standard AAZ cooling is different to the T25's, also the sensors are larger and the oil cooling set up is slightly different so I just removed all these pipes and replaced them with the T25's simple and easy I'm still using the T25 header tank as well.
The thermostat points straight along the block on the aaz and once you have fitted the engine mount it stops the pipe going on so I swapped it for the CS one which is at an angle so the pipes clear the mount.
I'm also using a 80c thermostat to help keep the temp down.

Oil cooling

I'm using a little oil cooler and a sandwich plate between the oil filter and engine to help keep the temp down, its mounted behind the O/S rear tyre (I have mud flaps) so it should get good air flow and not damage to use by stones etc.

Throttle Cable
I removed the top spring, and all the junk so it was down to the lower spring and cover only, I then fitted the CS arm which I had to mod slightly so that the springs would catch better on the back, then I refitted the 10mm Hex bolt and refitted the standard throttle cable making sure I had full movement on the pedal and arm.

Flywheel + Clutch

Standard T25 diesel flywheel and clutch with a new seal fitted and fitted a spigot, simple as that.

Wiring

Now I hate wiring but it's not that bad even if you have the later pump, on the later AAZ you have alot more electrics on the pump not to worry as you only need 1 wire, on the back of the pump there is a little black box, remove this (I cut into it with a small electric cutter) you will see the fuel cut off valve stick your wire on that JOB DONE

I have a manual choke so I have removed the electric set up and fitted my cable back on.
All the other wires on the pump are not needed so you can just cut them off at each base, you can put a early pump on these or fit another from a renault if you like.

Gearbox

I have a 5 speed 8H box fitted all I did was drain it and put in freash oil.


Thats about it really and apart from adding a few extra items like the intercooler - oil cooler and gauge senders/sensors it was very easy to do.

I'll add some photos when I get chance to take my camera down.

A few points to note.

If and when you do this do not change ANYTHING on the pump until you have it fitted and done a test run, it will save alot of time! I move the throttle arm when I removed the linkage, 10 minutes of messing about with it fixed the problem but as I changed the arm when the engine was out getting it started with the throttle in the wrong position was a pain!

SMOKE My AAZ had a duff turbo when I got it and it kicked out loads of black smoke when it kicked in (3500ish revs) now these engines get water in the bores after time sitting which will give you white smoke out the back, this smoke stops after a while! when I fired mine up it filled my workshop with white smoke.

Fuel lines so by doing this conversion you would of removed your fuel lines - thus the fuel would drain back down the lines and it can take a while to get the fuel back up again, don't kill your battery buy a can of easy start or start you bastard. REMOVE YOUR GLOW PLUG WIRING ON THE ENGINE stick some easy start in (you don't need alot) and turn it over, it will fire and start pulling the diesel back to the engine then run on diesel, turn it off refit your glow plug wiring job done!

FUEL PUMP Right there is a vacuum pipe which comes off the top of the fuel pump this goes to a banjo bolt on your inlet manifold so depending on which manifold you use etc you will have to drill and tap a small hole (so do this before you refit the inlet manifold)

Last edited by Kank; 17-03-2012 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:00 AM   #2
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Awesome write-up Kank, this needs to be stickied.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:31 PM   #3
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did you put a new spigot bearing in the crank end for the input shaft on the gearbox to sit in ?
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:11 PM   #4
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Yes I put on in as there was not one fitted, cheers forgot about that bit!
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kank View Post
Yes I put on in as there was not one fitted, cheers forgot about that bit!
known a few ppl forget to put them in then wonder why they have a judder

its a realy good conversion to do to them
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Old 16-03-2012, 12:40 PM   #6
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Cheers just added a little more info on some problems I've been having!

Hope it all helps someone.
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Old 17-03-2012, 10:38 PM   #7
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Went out for a test drive today, pulled good no smoke and no oil leaks so far

Slight boost issue but the owner of the car I pulled the engine from had messed about with the old turbo and pump so a little fine tuning and it should be better.
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Old 18-03-2012, 02:17 PM   #8
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A few photos, this is still a project install so it's not 100% yet but it works.








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Old 18-03-2012, 02:19 PM   #9
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Old 20-04-2012, 01:31 AM   #10
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Well after a 2000 mile 10 day fully load towing a 3 bike trailer (with 3 bikes) 4 people and all their gear for the JOGLE event road test it's back

It did well only failed to start once (small battery now upgraded) and the only fault was the old fucked turbo (which I knew about) blow it's seals on the way back home, so in all I'm happy.

New turbo fitted today and it's back running nicely.

My advice if you wanna go AAZ don't use JX manifolds or turbo's just use the aaz gear which is cheap easy to buy (e-bay or breakers), there are a few bit which you need from a CS engine but again these bit's are easy to come by.

If you have a diesel T25 and buy a AAZ lump you have 99% of the bits you need.
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