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turbo questions

454K views 2K replies 75 participants last post by  wastedspark 
#1 ·
hi guys this is the spec of my engine

2332cc CB high roof case, Scat crank 84mm, CB H beam rods, 94mm B+P, Total seal rings, Engle FK10 cam, Scat lifters, Berg chromoly pushrods, Jaycee pushrod tubes, Scat 1.4 rockers, A1 1 3/4 Sidewinder exhaust ceramic header and stainless back box Vband clamp and Lambda bung, Deep sump, Jeff Denham welded heads 44 x 37 valves heavily reworked with matching manifolds, Bosch alternator, welded fan all new tinware, Berg linkage, Fuel injection kit-CB throttle bodies, DTA engine management box complete wiring harness, fuel pump, filter and regulator, MSD coil pack, flywheel machined for crank trigger all sensors 9.51 comp ratio

now looking at fitting a turbo set up can anybody help with the spec

thanx andy
 
#4 · (Edited)
compression ratio is a touch high, you could probably get it down with copper head gaskets,not sure on the cam, i personally would run it rather than splitting the case ( Paul Hamilton ran a N/A cam in the bus with no detrement) DTA is ok for turbo use, i think you will just need a MAP sensor to measure boost pressure, 13/4" is too big for the manifold, mine is probably about right at 15/8", i would aim for a t3/4 hybrid turbo with a .63 exhaust housing. CB pressure caps from the speedshop straight onto the throttle bodies are the easiest fit.
probably looking at towards 280-300hp
check out shoptalkforums forced induction forum, really usefull info


oh and i am far from being any sort of expert, just based on my build which is very similar bar the heads
cheers kev
 
#13 ·
compression ratio is a touch high, you could probably get it down with copper head gaskets,not sure on the cam, i personally would run it rather than splitting the case ( Paul Hamilton ran a N/A cam in the bus with no detrement) DTA is ok for turbo use, i think you will just need a MAP sensor to measure boost pressure, 13/4" is too big for the manifold, mine is probably about right at 15/8", i would aim for a t3/4 hybrid turbo with a .63 exhaust housing. CB pressure caps from the speedshop straight onto the throttle bodies are the easiest fit.
probably looking at towards 280-300hp
check out shoptalkforums forced induction forum, really usefull info

oh and i am far from being any sort of expert, just based on my build which is very similar bar the heads
cheers kev
thanx for the info i new comp was a bit high so will be lowering that as you said dont want to split the case to change cam, what turbo are you running, are you running an intercooler? sorry for all the quizing but dont want to melt it. i can fit a lamba sensor to link to the dta to help the fuel air ratio control my gear box is fine a cog box welded etc

thanx for the info

andy
 
#8 ·
1914cc 043 Super D-ports Engle 110cam 7.5:1 CR
OMEX efi
Garrett T04b

200+ at the wheels at 20psi on PUMP unleaded with fanbelt cooling etc.

Runs cool as stock on the street thanks to low CR and drives lovely with the little cam and single TB but life changes big time when the boost arrives ;)
 
#15 ·
my spec is 2332cc
CB raised roof raised deck case 7.6:1 cr
scat 84mm forged crank with 11/32 dowel conversion
mahle b+p's 94mm
CB copper head gaskets 1.5mm
total seal 2nd rings
CB 5.5" H beams with arp2000 bolts
Web 86b cam on 110 lobe centres
scat 1.25 ratio rockers
CB CNC roundports
Garett t3/4 hybrid, 50 trim .63 ar
Speedshop stainless turbo header
DTA s40 pro ecu
self built efi using CB ida style efi manifolds with 60lb injectors
Lightened flywheel
Stage 3 clutch and plate
Chargecooler
cosworth throttle body with self built manifolds

looks a bit like this at the mo



but should be a lot more engine like next week

all in a bus :lol:
 
#22 ·
from a scientific perspective water has a better heat transfer coefficient - i.e. a water/air chargecooler should always work better than an equally sized air/air intercooler. Getting more radical things can be further improved with the use of refrigerant as opposed to water or, even more simply, use ice.

When racing, i partially drain the header tank of my chargecooler and refill it with ice before a run. I then run the water pump alone without the engine running to "super-cool" the chargecooler at the engine end, often to the point that it is virtually dripping with condensation on a hot day. At the end of a full run by the time I have driven back to the pits, the entire system is at ambient temperature.

When originally mapping the motor on the dyno I left the same water in the system, but had an air fan directed straight on the "radiator" (heat exchanger) that is mounted behind the horn grill in the front valance of my car - the inlet charge temps didn't rise much above 50degC during continuous testing - we must have done at least a dozen power pulls.

Repeatability ;)

that said, now that the ambient air temp is so low (original mapping was in May) I have the opposite problem - inlet air temps are very low which causes the air density of the inlet charge to increase. Unfortunately, this means the air is "too good" and my previous "map" is lean on fuel above ~12psi boost. So whilst we built in safety features for excess inlet temps by taking out timing to protect the motor, again another benefit of programmable efi, at the time I didn't consider the need for allowing for excessively low air temps - we don't often race in winter but we, well I, do drive on the roads in winter when its cold - like last weekend...

Went against all my racer principles - I had to turn it down on the wastegate :eek:
 
#47 ·
It looks good Andy, nice installation of the chargecooler how do they work are they better than a big intercooler?

The groud clearence might be a problem for you dont you think the pipes are a little low? Might need higher tyres;)

cheers
michael
Hi
its not as low at the back as it looks, but i may ditch the silencer and get rid of some pipe work :( for the chargecooler info look above

cheers andy
 
#25 ·
So is that l a Stage3? At a guess, I suspect you'll need to change the disc for a Black Magic or 4-puck, although I guess that depends how hard you want to drive it - its not so much holding the power when pulling away / launching that is required, moreover its the rolling torque that a 2332 turbo will generate. Would be interesting to see how you get on
 
#42 ·
Hi more progress today ive made the inlet plenums took ages to make the flanges to on top of the throttle bodies you dont seam to be able to buy them but a few hours with a hacksaw and a file and i was there :D.



thanks for looking

Andy
 
#45 ·
trial fitted the gas burners today got to get some 15mm spacers for the rear to clear the calipers 145 on the front and mickey tompson race treads on the rear, cant make my mind up about the exhasut pipes looses the sleeper look some what lol







this is were the charge cooler is going :D got to leave a bit of room for the water injection



thanks for looking cheers andy
 
#46 ·
It looks good Andy, nice installation of the chargecooler how do they work are they better than a big intercooler?

The groud clearence might be a problem for you dont you think the pipes are a little low? Might need higher tyres;)

cheers
michael
 
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