Pete do you know of any cons when using ceramic lifters..marty wants to use them on my engine but i like to get an idea of what i am up against when i say yes to stuff?
What do you lot think of this any thaughts would be great I NEED INPUT
Case (CB Aluminum raise roof bored for 90.5/92mm with 7.5mm deck)
Heads (CB Comp Elims 44x40 valves)
Crank (Pauter Flanged with 411 center main, 84mm w/Chevy journals)
Flywheel (Pauter flanged - same manufacturer as crank)
Rods (Pauter 5.7 Chevy journal)
Cam (Staggs Racing custom grind)
Straight Cut cam gears (Competition Engineering)
Pushrods (Manton double taper)
Rockers (Pauter 1.4)
P&C's (94 wiseco w/Cima barrels)
Oil Pump Cover (SCAT aluminum full flow)
Head Studs (chromoly preferrable Raceware)
Valve covers
Main Bearings
Rod bearings (Clevite 610P)
Cam bearings
Pullys (Competition Engineering)
Lifters (SLR)
Gasket set
Casehardware set
Flywheel seal
Cam plug
Crank gear set
Total Seal second rings
Dist drive
Gland nut (SCAT long)
Cool tin
DTM Fan setup
Jaycee pushrod tubes
Alternator kit
Fan (welded balanced)
Big Heads,Big Turbo....Big POWERRRRRRRRRRR :crazy:
im sure marty staggs knows his onions.
lot of plumbing and fitting to get that into an oval,bob+serious gearbox...
Supposed to be very good , although can shatter with valve float .
And an inexperienced person , would not recognise valve float until to late .
The tool steel lifters that Udo Becker sells seem like a good idea , tool steel is well ard .
I am using the new CB lightweight lifters now , giving them a go , hoprfully the reduced weight will take some of the load off the spring .
I kinda accept the pitted lifter thing , it seems to happen to some engines , but not to others . I know that the usual dual springs that the 044's come with , aren't up to much more that 0.530 lift with a 44mm valve . I had been using Erco Triples , or Paul's long valve conversion Wedgeports , with the bigger springs .
I think that a lot of the pitted lifter problem is down to valve float and inadequate springs , loosing tension pretty quickly .
Some of it is down to incorrect engine storage over winter and incorrect start-up procedure , some of it down to reduced zinc in the modern oils .
Incorrect cam bedding in procedure can start off pitting too .
There are many many reasons , plus VW's were never ment to RIPP like we make them do anyway .
As a matter of course , I change the VW sized duals every 2000 miles .
One of the things we have been using on several of our street engines is diesel motor oil. It has much more zinc than traditional motor oils. We have no long term data, but in theory it should help in keeping lifters and cams happier.
On the subject of ceramic lifters, I've heard they don't like 2 steps or rev limiters also. At the Bug-in last year, I should have bought a set for $200USD from Adam Wik, but hesitated and lost out.
Phil "Nitrous Bandit" Brown and a Nova @ Carlsbad.
What do you lot think of this any thaughts would be great I NEED INPUT
Case (CB Aluminum raise roof bored for 90.5/92mm with 7.5mm deck)
Heads (CB Comp Elims 44x40 valves)
Crank (Pauter Flanged with 411 center main, 84mm w/Chevy journals)
Flywheel (Pauter flanged - same manufacturer as crank)
Rods (Pauter 5.7 Chevy journal)
Cam (Staggs Racing custom grind)
Straight Cut cam gears (Competition Engineering)
Pushrods (Manton double taper)
Rockers (Pauter 1.4)
P&C's (94 wiseco w/Cima barrels)
Oil Pump Cover (SCAT aluminum full flow)
Head Studs (chromoly preferrable Raceware)
Valve covers
Main Bearings
Rod bearings (Clevite 610P)
Cam bearings
Pullys (Competition Engineering)
Lifters (SLR)
Gasket set
Casehardware set
Flywheel seal
Cam plug
Crank gear set
Total Seal second rings
Dist drive
Gland nut (SCAT long)
Cool tin
DTM Fan setup
Jaycee pushrod tubes
Alternator kit
Fan (welded balanced)
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