I thought it was about time i showed off my rusty '70 1300.
It spent the best part of 3 years sitting on my parents drive until a mate offered to bring it across so it could sit on my drive for a few years.
Its been patched up a few times some of them not very neatly so it's getting a makeover of the existing repairs and some new channels and door pillar bottoms plus all the other bits a bug normally rusts out in.
The first time it was driven in 3 or more years was off the trailer.
Unfortunately i had forgotten about the lack of gearlever, engine, brake fluid or well adjusted handbrake until the trailer was tipped up and it was accelerating down the flatbed.
Luckily the road is quite flat and it slowed to a stop after i'd passed a few houses.
im going to build a 1600 DP. Ive got the as41 case , and a few bits n peices. Waiting to get another engine as a donar. Just cleaning all the bits i have already..
Saving for some new parts too..dam exspensive this bug building lark. Engine and body work. ive could of bought a decent car by now..lol.
Cabbage has a working engine, but has a bad knock on the bottom end, needs a newly built motor..
Woke up this morning to the first lovely and dry, no wind day in weeks and i've got a bloody case of manflu.
Sitting here at the moment wrapped in a thick blanket shivering.
Was hoping to get something done outside but i can't even stand without my legs shaking.
Just got the chesty cough now but am alright otherwise.
Decided to hose off all the mud and horse crap the wheelarches of my bus have aquired over the past few days and managed to blow a hole through the front inner arch.
I think it was 'repaired' by a previous owner using the old papier mache and underseal trick.
Took a head off the engine today to see what condition it is in.
The result of 35,000 miles run on unleaded.
Cylinder head on 4 and 3 are a little bit coked up but no valve seat regression i can see.
hi, I had similar problems to your sunroof one - on a soft-top sealing strip. It could be that the squeegie bit has gone a little hard. open it, clean it , buy black silicon and lay a very small bit around the sealing edge. Wait a few minutes for the silcone to start curing. Using your favorite strips of cheap shopping bag and cover all the bits you don't want to stick. Close the roof, and in about 24 hours you have a semi-permanant waterprof seal that can be remade.
My bloody mig welder broke today.
The wire feed tube thingy is blocked solid and i can't clear it. Looks like i'm gonna have to find a replacement before i can do anything more.
Still no more progress on the bug. Been busy welding the bus up for its MOT in a week or so time.
Can't wait to get stuck in and rip out the channels though.
I've been rebuilding the original 1300SP motor it came from the factory with over the past couple of evenings as i haven't had the time when its been daylight to get cutting the heater channels out.
Managed to source a couple of lengths of 2x2" steel to brace the door gaps with though.
Was hoping to get the engine rebuilt and running on my test stand but now realise i'm missing a heat exchanger as one was badly rusted out.
Shame as with a baffleless stock exhaust and straight through tailpipes it'll wake the neighbourhood up nicely.
Looks like i might have to start looking out for a more solid floorpan.
Seems i need floorpan halves, napoleon hat section, framehead and some of the underside of the spine.
Theres a hole the size of your fist just infront of the pedal support and the master cylinder bolt near the spine has sunk into the napoleon hat.
I'm in two minds now whether to bite the bullet as it were and continue cutting and welding or just look for a more solid shell and chassis and start from scratch.
id start cutting and wleding, its really not that bad, whatever you buy unless u spend a fortune your going to have to do something somewhere along the line. so might aswell do this one, you wont have the same feeling from any other car
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