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Old 25-11-2019, 07:39 PM   #21
Mooresy
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Thanks Phil,
So the coil had a little fold down door to get at the concealed terminals. Using the 3 pin connector at the top gives a different (and out of spec) reading. Must be some additional circuitry between these terminals and the coil.

So I have ran the tests -

Bridging pos to neg = 0.07 Ohms - In spec (VW state 0.5 to 1.5 Ohms)

Bridging pos to HT Output = 3.08k Ohms - In spec (VW State 2.5 to 4.0 K Ohms)


So the coil is appears good and the ignition leads are reasonably good.


I just need to check the outputs to the coil on the car when its light.

So here's where I am now -

Halls sensor in Dizzy, I believe if these fail then you get no spark, so cant be this?

Knock Sensor, everything I read says this wont stop the car from starting?

ECU Corrupted/problem, timing?

Spark Plugs, all of them failed at once?

Timing jumped, if so why did it run for a period of time after being sprayed with WD

Loose wire, fuse rely, why does it try to start and fire on one or two?
Fuel injection, plugs wet fuel getting in, but when. Fuel pressure, if this was defective wold it register on scanner, and still let fuel trough to cylinders?

Coil defective, and failing under load/spark under compression not enough, thought this was more of a misfire issue under acceleration?



One observation I made yesterday was when cleaning and drying out the plugs, I decided to check the gaps. Looked in the Haynes and it said 1.0 gap. All were tight, so opened up and gapped at 1.0 mm

Put back in the car dry and warm - nothing, not even trying now.



Cross referenced the gap setting on the other sources which recommended 0.9mm which is probably where they were. Now this may be a coincidence but opening the the gap by 0.1mm changed the status from trying to not firing at-all. So could the coil be still suspect as I cannot see a healthy ignition system being bothered by 0.1 mm, but I suppose that its not healthy.



Building a great thread here for the AER 1.0 engine, lets just hope it ends well!

Last edited by Mooresy; 25-11-2019 at 07:43 PM..
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Old 01-12-2019, 05:37 PM   #22
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Had another look at this today -
Unfortunately, it started to get dark at about 15.30 so had to pack away without actually trying to start the thing.

Removed ECU, cleaned the connector with electrical cleaning spray.
Opened the ECU and checked for any visible deterioration, water ingress etc. Fine so spayed with electrical cleaner.

Broke all the connections I could find, spayed with electrical cleaner and remade.

Removed the spark plugs again, checked for resistance, continuity, shorting etc, all ok

1 = 4.91k ohms
2 = 4.22k ohms
3 = 4.21k ohms
4 = 4.22k ohms
Should be between 4 and 6.5 depending on resistor so all good and no shorts.

Removed all earth points to engine and body cleaned/sanded and reattached.

Checked the timing by removing all the plugs (already out) removing the Dizzy cap (already off) jacking up one front wheel (other still on the ground), putting in 4th gear and turning the wheel until the screwdriver placed through the spark plug hole had risen to its highest point. Checked the direction of the dizzy rotor and this was bang on the mark on the casing for TDC cylinder No 1.
So no issues with the timing.

So here's the latest list -

New Battery (Varta) all fine here.
New fuel and fuel filter, tank pump working.
New distributor cap, all checked and measured to ensure center pick-up was in contact with rotor (found original to be cracked), also all leads on correct terminals (firing order).
Connection from cap to plug leads checked with multi-meter.
HT Leads all tested with timing strobe, also out of cylinder head with plugs producing a blue spark, and with multi-meter while flexing leads. All fine here.
All pugs checked with multi-meter and correctly gapped at 1.0mm.
Coil checked, LT and HT sides all in spec (also plugs firing).
Timing checked. all good.
No pipes off or split.
All electrical connections taken apart, cleaned with connector cleaning spray.
All engine earth points cleaned and reconnected.
Scan using a Snap-on Solus Ultra - no fault codes now showing.
Throttle body adapted.
ECU removed and checked for water ingress etc(all good), connector blocks cleaned with electrical cleaning spray.

Still wont start, fires and tries.

Further things for consideration -

Dizzy Halls sensor, told if this is bad then you dont get a spark?
Knock sensor. told cant be this?
Lamda/O2 Sensor, can this cause a car not to start?
Crank sensor, can this cause a car not to start?
EGR Valve, can this cause a car not to start?
Relays?
Corrupted Knackered ECU, Fuel is getting to all cylinders.
All injectors?
Fuel pressure regulator?

Any suggestions on which order to tackle these ?

Regards,
Chris.


Thanks,
Chris.

Last edited by Mooresy; 03-12-2019 at 10:33 PM.. Reason: =
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:03 PM   #23
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Looks like the 1.0 MPi AER engine does not have a crank sensor as previously mentioned, so that rules that one out and explains why nothing was showing on the wiring diagram. At least I dont have to do that job as it looked a real B'stard. Attached some images from the Motronic 9.0 training manual

So Back to the list, that one can be crossed off.

Dizzy Halls sensor, told if this is bad then you dont get a spark?
Knock sensor. told cant be this?
Lamda/O2 Sensor, can this cause a car not to start?
EGR Valve, can this cause a car not to start?
Relays?
Corrupted Knackered ECU, Fuel is getting to all cylinders.
All injectors, but fuel is getting through?
Fuel pressure regulator, fuel is getting through?

Throttle body?

In my view, its between the distributor and the ECU?



Tried again today. Put everything back together, still the same, trying and spluttering but just wont run.

Had the same two fault codes come up on connecting the battery. Both cleared and didn't return after numerous attempts at starting so I disconnected the battery and they returned. So these faults just come up on disconnection/re connection of the battery then clear.

So no faults showing Ahhhhhhhhhhh!

Its looking like its going to the breakers soon, just do not have any more time to mess around with it. Problem is. I know if I take it to a garage, which it will have to be towed, then they will only do the same as I have only charge lots of money.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:06 PM   #24
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I have tried starting the car with the connection to the manifold pressure sensor undone and it throws up a fault code 00519 -Intake manifold pressure sensor open circuit / short with power intermittent. On re connection this clears. Does not seem to make any difference if it is connected or not, the car still splutters and chugs just the same.

Ignition switch fine.

Every fuse removed and checked, but not done the relay's yet as surely if it were a fuse or a relay, then it would either work or not, it does run. but chuggs very badly then sneezes through the throttle and dies, which would indicate a timing anomaly to me. As the timing is mechanically correct (and hasn't been touched) then it may be a 'rouge' signal from a failing halls sensor? I really don't know.

EGR valve? May be worth checking this out. If I can get to the thing without taking the engine out!

If it were something that could be diagnosed either with the scan tool, a multimeter or a process of elimination then I would have fixed it by now, unfortunately, everything is drawing a blank and pointing to the only way to sort this out is by changing parts, which is exactly what I wanted to avoid, as I could have done this from the off and not wasted a load of time 'diagnosing' something that was 'undiagnoseable'

The failure mode (or lead up to the failure) was -

Car started with old fuel and fuel filter, as was, from being stood, it was started every few months prior to that and was OK. Jumped from another car as the battery was kanackered. Started and ran perfect, settled down to a smooth tick-over and revved freely, left ticking over for half an hour. I week goes by.

Bought a new battery and fitted. starts up fine but then starts to run lumpy (like it was only firing on 3 cylinders). The testing began... I week goes by.

Still running on 3, out of frustration sprayed the whole engine and components in WD. Restored, running smooth, revving freely, then 5 mins later running worse than ever and wont really start, just chuggs the sneezes through the throttle. Another 4 weeks of research and testing.

That's it, pretty much everything has been checked out, cant find anything wrong (well, anything that tests wrong) so, its change parts out time.

Thanks for there suggestions but already covered all the easy stuff, most of the intermediary stuff, and some of the hardish stuff that I am capable of.

Last edited by Mooresy; 08-12-2019 at 08:37 PM..
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Old 10-12-2019, 07:51 PM   #25
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Yep, all I can now do is start to change parts staring with the cheapest, Got some leads on order to rule that one out and also a second hand distributor, which comes with another cap.

If these don't fix it then I'll go for a coil, failing that? Throttle body? Then a fuel injection rail, an ECU. I honestly don't know, cant find anything wrong, cant get much time to really work on it in the light.

Got a distributor and some HT's on order, It wont be these, but you got to start somewhere, wasting your time and money...

Exactly the route I didn't want to go down...
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