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Old 11-06-2019, 09:28 PM   #11
parkin10
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The door skin tried on it too needed some reshaping before I was happy
The spirit level is being used to hold the skin straight while I weld it on
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:39 PM   #12
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It turns out that the edge of the door skin is a bit rusty
So I cut the rough off and let in some new steel
I also welded up the holes for the trim
Then I tried the door on again
I'm fairly happy with the fit
So far it's cost,
32 for the repair panels
A cutting disk
And half a can of weld thru primer
Some prep next!
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Last edited by parkin10; 11-06-2019 at 09:48 PM..
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keekster64 View Post
Thanks for that. I have the same job ahead of me. I have bought the more expensive red panels although I anticipate the fit to be still crap, just the metal to be thicker. I see you kept the original stiffner at the hinge. Thats interesting, I never thought of that. The panel comes with the stiffner fitted. I guess its easier to leave it in place, and derust it, if its not rotten.
Avoids messing with door alignment. I will have to replace the hinges on the drivers side as the pins are badly worn, but I have a door off a LHD car that can supply them, so that fixes that problem.
I think that I would try to use the original door frame post
Could end up being a real pig to line up the door if you end up cutting it off
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Old 12-06-2019, 01:06 PM   #14
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Looking very good - neat and tidy (and so far cheap)!
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Loads of work to do - will I get to use it this year :(
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Old 12-06-2019, 01:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkin10 View Post
I think that I would try to use the original door frame post
Could end up being a real pig to line up the door if you end up cutting it off
Yup I agree. Nice work by the way. I'm planning to glue/bond and spot weld with a spot welder the lower skin by the way, to reduce risk of distortion.
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Old 12-06-2019, 01:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkin10 View Post
I've had to mess with those door frame repair panels quite a lot to get them something like
The passenger door one had to be beaten flat and then I reshaped it around a length of angle iron for the bottom of the skin to attach to and still leave a neat channel for the door seal to fit
So I've tacked the frame repair piece on
Reshaped it so it will meet with the skin and tried the door on to see how it looks in relation to the car
Okay. Its easy to beat it flat and then redo the first 90 degree bend in my vice with two lengths of angle iron, but how did you create the second 90 degree bend to create the channel for the seal? Thats a little more tricky without some sort of buck.

Also did you remove the lower hinge flap at all or just worked round it?
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Old 12-06-2019, 08:03 PM   #17
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I just happen to have a length of angle iron just the right size
I beat the panel straight, then cut a length of wood to go inside the door frame repair panel
Then clamped the wood, panel and angle iron together and rebeat the repair panel back round the angle iron in the correct place
The angle iron is just the right thickness for the gap
Here's a picture of the passenger door bottom that had the angle iron treatment in primer
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Old 12-06-2019, 08:14 PM   #18
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Here's some photos of today's prep including the hole I found under the old paint
I run a 8mm drill bit through the rust and mig welded it up, this door really should have had a full skin!
And some evidence of the old B piller accident damage
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Last edited by parkin10; 12-06-2019 at 08:19 PM..
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Old 12-06-2019, 08:16 PM   #19
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Pictures of Auntie clagg
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Old 12-06-2019, 11:23 PM   #20
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Default door repair

looking good there,,,it must be something about repairing what youve got that gives us pleasure bit like triggers broom!!!!
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