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Readers Rides Post pics, specs and build-up stories of your vehicles - or even your garages here. Also interesting stuff about your 'daily drivers' etc. or interesting cars you have seen on your travels, even motors-based TV shows you can recommend. Please, no 'For Sale' or 'Want To Buy' ads, plugs for your 'business', links to 'for sale' ads or Ebay links to your (or your mate's) auction (use the VZi 'Classifieds' section) - this also includes thinly veiled 'What's My Car Worth?' threads and "Who Can Sell Me A . . ." posts.

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Old 10-11-2019, 12:34 PM   #2941
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Nice! I remember some bug towbars looking like they went through the bumper......think they had a support bar inbetween the bumper irons and bolted through the bumper (might have been a homebrewed thing).
My cousin had a Texas yellow 03 in late 80s previous owner had thought you could just mount a towball to rear bumper, he'd done this then tried to pull a trailer/caravan and you can guess the outcome!!!!!
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:25 AM   #2942
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Probably the same thing that happens when you try to recover a bogged down rusty land rover with a kinetic recovery rope. Swift removal of the back end.
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Old 11-11-2019, 06:49 PM   #2943
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Decided to static time the engine before i attempt to start it.
Timing light lit up all the time, not just when the points open.

Points are seen to open and close when the engine is turned over with a socket on the crank pulley, the gap is correct and they're new points and a new condensor.
At 7.5BTDC the rotor arm points to the notch in the rim of the dizzy.

What am i missing?
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Old 12-11-2019, 12:32 PM   #2944
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This afternon i'm gonna see if i can figure out what the hell is going on with the ignition timing.
As the timing light comes on when the points are open is it possible they aren't closing totally which is why the light doesn't go out?
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Old 12-11-2019, 01:39 PM   #2945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebedee View Post
Decided to static time the engine before i attempt to start it.
Timing light lit up all the time, not just when the points open.

Points are seen to open and close when the engine is turned over with a socket on the crank pulley, the gap is correct and they're new points and a new condensor.
At 7.5BTDC the rotor arm points to the notch in the rim of the dizzy.

What am i missing?
Faulty points or condenser? Fit an old part, one at a time. Wouldn't be the first time a new part is faulty, even a high quality one.
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Old 12-11-2019, 01:54 PM   #2946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebedee View Post
This afternon i'm gonna see if i can figure out what the hell is going on with the ignition timing.
As the timing light comes on when the points are open is it possible they aren't closing totally which is why the light doesn't go out?
You can measure the dwell angle to find this out.
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Old 12-11-2019, 06:51 PM   #2947
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Removed the points today, cleaned them up (maybe they had some oil or something on them?) and reinstalled and now the light goes off when it should. I'll set it again with the strobe once i get it all up and running.

Added a can of fuel to the tank and it didn't leak out the bottom which i class as a win , so i tried cranking it over to build up some oil pressure but the battery wasn't up to it. 12.28v (so about 65%) but dropped to 9.8v when cranking.
It wouldn't even turn it over fast enough to put out the oil light and the oil pressure gauge didn't move either.

Battery is on charge over night so i'll give it another go tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 13-11-2019, 12:05 PM   #2948
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Battery on charge since 4pm yesterday so tried it again this morning.
Engine turned over and over, oil light flickered a bit and dimmed slightly then the battery when flat again. On charge once again.
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Old 13-11-2019, 07:14 PM   #2949
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Had another go at starting it.
Turned the key and nothing. No lights in speedo, nothing.
Checked battery voltage and got 12.78v at battery terminals but just 2.68v tested between the regulator +ve wire and earth. Thought maybe the earth lead was broken or loose so removed it and checked for continuity. It was fine. It looks like it was just the bolt which holds the end to the chassis behind the battery. Cleaned the chassis back to shiny metal with some sandpaper, and reinstalled the lead with a new bolt and washer with a smear of vaseline on it. Tested again and got the full battery voltage. No idea why it did it all of a sudden when it was fine before.

Checked the oil light again. Its on with the ignition as it should be, but disconnecting the wire off the sender doesn't put it out like it should so it looks like the wire from speedo to sender could be shorting out somewhere. In order to get to the back of the speedo i need to remove the relays from behind it again.

I also managed to chip the paint on the passengers door and nick the seal catching a bolt on the garage wall.

Quite tempted to just say **** it, throw a cover over it and walk away from it until next year.
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Old 14-11-2019, 12:03 PM   #2950
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Oil light was my stupidity. Wires on the wrong terminals of the sender so the oil light was attached to the gauge terminal and vise versa.
Forgot to switch the battery charger off last night so its had over 30 hours of charge at 3 amps. Should be good to go now.
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