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Old 17-11-2019, 03:54 PM   #11
Mooresy
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Thanks all,
Just put it back together with a fully charged battery and performed a scan using the Snap-on Solus Ultra.

Initially it was displaying 6 fault codes -

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.
00524 Knock sensor 1 (G16) open circuit/short with ground - intermittent.
00537 O2 Sensor Regulation control limit exceeded - intermittent.
00518 Throttle position sensor (G69) open circuit/short with power - intermittent.
00530 Throttle position sensor (G88) open circuit /short with power - Intermittent.

I then reset the fault codes and attempted to restart the engine.

It then came up with only two fault codes -

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.

Reset the service indicator and performed an instrumentation/ calibration check.

Cleared the 2 codes above and tried one last time, came up with the same 2 codes on attempting to start.

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.

The engine will just about start and run if you hold the throttle open. Sound/feels like its only running on 2 (or even 1 if that is possible)

Any idea's ?

Last edited by Mooresy; 17-11-2019 at 04:08 PM..
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Old 17-11-2019, 08:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooresy View Post
Thanks all,
Just put it back together with a fully charged battery and performed a scan using the Snap-on Solus Ultra.

Initially it was displaying 6 fault codes -

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.
00524 Knock sensor 1 (G16) open circuit/short with ground - intermittent.
00537 O2 Sensor Regulation control limit exceeded - intermittent.
00518 Throttle position sensor (G69) open circuit/short with power - intermittent.
00530 Throttle position sensor (G88) open circuit /short with power - Intermittent.

I then reset the fault codes and attempted to restart the engine.

It then came up with only two fault codes -

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.

Reset the service indicator and performed an instrumentation/ calibration check.

Cleared the 2 codes above and tried one last time, came up with the same 2 codes on attempting to start.

00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed.
01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances.

The engine will just about start and run if you hold the throttle open. Sound/feels like its only running on 2 (or even 1 if that is possible)

Any idea's ?
Clean the throttle housing and Use the Solus Ultra to carry out throttle valve adaption. This will cure your faults.

Phil
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Old 17-11-2019, 11:14 PM   #13
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Thanks,
The throttle body is like new. I give it a clean arround 3.5 years ago when the care had 25,000 on the clock, Its only done another 10,000 since and shows no sign of any soiling.

Trouble is, I cant find out how to do a throttle body recal with a Solus only VAG software.

I'll have a play with it again one night this week.

Just seems strange that it started fine, no issues at all having stood with a flat battery and old fuel for 2 years and 8 months. Settled down to tick over sweet for half an hour.
The next weekend it started fine but then reverted to rubbing on 3 cylinders, so decided to change the fuel and fuel filter.

Continued to run on 3 cylinders, Then, ran fine for 10 mins, revving freely, then reverted to not starting at all. Now runs on 1 ?

Also thinking fuel regulator, you know, sitting with old fuel in for so long?

But I agree, try the throttle body first but from experience these usually only give high or erratic idle if not trimmed in?

Do they stop the car starting totally?

Cheers,
Chris.
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Old 18-11-2019, 08:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooresy View Post
Thanks,
The throttle body is like new. I give it a clean arround 3.5 years ago when the care had 25,000 on the clock, Its only done another 10,000 since and shows no sign of any soiling.

Trouble is, I cant find out how to do a throttle body recal with a Solus only VAG software.

I'll have a play with it again one night this week.

Just seems strange that it started fine, no issues at all having stood with a flat battery and old fuel for 2 years and 8 months. Settled down to tick over sweet for half an hour.
The next weekend it started fine but then reverted to rubbing on 3 cylinders, so decided to change the fuel and fuel filter.

Continued to run on 3 cylinders, Then, ran fine for 10 mins, revving freely, then reverted to not starting at all. Now runs on 1 ?

Also thinking fuel regulator, you know, sitting with old fuel in for so long?

But I agree, try the throttle body first but from experience these usually only give high or erratic idle if not trimmed in?

Do they stop the car starting totally?

Cheers,
Chris.
You'd be surprised how stupid modern smart electronics can be.

Throttle adaptation is where I would start, basically it wont run right because it cant figure out how to fuel the engine as it doesnt know the limits of the throttle.

I'd say old fuel will make it run crap, hell even my T2 Bay ran crap with old fuel and those things run on anything.

I wouldnt have thought it was 100% electronics though, I'd be more inclined to say crappy fuel and maybe a blockage. Heres a stupid question, are all the vacuum lines in the engine bay alright? they can perish (they have on my 98 T4 and my 01 Golf) and one of which controls the fuel pressure, I'm not saying thats why it wont start and run properly but could be a contributing factor.

I think start by doing the throttle adaptation procedure with the tool and clear the code and see how it gets on then.
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Old 18-11-2019, 08:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooresy View Post
Thanks,
The throttle body is like new. I give it a clean arround 3.5 years ago when the care had 25,000 on the clock, Its only done another 10,000 since and shows no sign of any soiling.

Trouble is, I cant find out how to do a throttle body recal with a Solus only VAG software.

I'll have a play with it again one night this week.

Just seems strange that it started fine, no issues at all having stood with a flat battery and old fuel for 2 years and 8 months. Settled down to tick over sweet for half an hour.
The next weekend it started fine but then reverted to rubbing on 3 cylinders, so decided to change the fuel and fuel filter.

Continued to run on 3 cylinders, Then, ran fine for 10 mins, revving freely, then reverted to not starting at all. Now runs on 1 ?

Also thinking fuel regulator, you know, sitting with old fuel in for so long?

But I agree, try the throttle body first but from experience these usually only give high or erratic idle if not trimmed in?

Do they stop the car starting totally?

Cheers,
Chris.
As I stated before, both of these fault codes relate to throttle adaption. You will need to do this before going any further.

Phil
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Old 23-11-2019, 04:47 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=cox71slammed;16573049]As I stated before, both of these fault codes relate to throttle adaption. You will need to do this before going any further.

OK, I have done a throttle body realignment and re-scanned the codes. No fault codes are now showing. It was originally 00533 Idle speed and 01087 basic settings not performed.
Unfortunately, the car is still in the same state. No codes but will only try to fire on what sounds like one cylinder. No change?


Tank full of fresh fuel
Fuel filter changed
Fuel pump operational
Compression test fine
No vacuum leaks
Spark plugs are wet and smell of fuel
Spark plugs sparking
Cracked Distributor cap replaced
New Varta Battery, fully charged.
No fault codes.

Cant understand why last weekend it ran perfect for a bit after a dowsing in WD. May have been a coincidence as it didnt do it again, and wont now.

Any Idea's?

Last edited by Mooresy; 23-11-2019 at 05:56 PM..
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Old 24-11-2019, 01:00 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=Mooresy;16573633]
Quote:
Originally Posted by cox71slammed View Post
As I stated before, both of these fault codes relate to throttle adaption. You will need to do this before going any further.

OK, I have done a throttle body realignment and re-scanned the codes. No fault codes are now showing. It was originally 00533 Idle speed and 01087 basic settings not performed.
Unfortunately, the car is still in the same state. No codes but will only try to fire on what sounds like one cylinder. No change?


Tank full of fresh fuel
Fuel filter changed
Fuel pump operational
Compression test finer
No vacuum leaks
Spark plugs are wet and smell of fuel
Spark plugs sparking
Cracked Distributor cap replaced
New Varta Battery, fully charged.
No fault codes.

Cant understand why last weekend it ran perfect for a bit after a dowsing in WD. May have been a coincidence as it didnt do it again, and wont now.

Any Idea's?
Check or replace the plug leads, itís possible that these have broken down & are susceptible to moisture. You state compression is ok but what readings did you get?

Phil
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Old 24-11-2019, 02:06 PM   #18
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Thanks,
Firstly, not going to get too hung up on compression at the moment. I have a shit gauge that does not read right. This was proven a number of years ago when I was getting silly low readings on my Karmann Ghia. Got the local garage to do the test and all was OK so established that the guage was reading low, very low. I jsut used it in this case to eliminate a burned out valve when it was still running but only on 3 cylinders. As mentioned I havnt done a thing, and its basically gone from 3 to zero. wont run at-all now.

I must admit, my first port of call would have been HT's, then coil etc. Problem is when I test them, with my srobe, all are sparking?

Just took the coil off (its the single Mono-motronic, pre 98 set-up). I have just checked it and the redings are as follows -

Referencing the wiring diagram, Terminal 1 of the multi plug is earth, terminal 2 goes to ECU, control, terminal 3 is positive, goes to fuse box. Fuse cant be gone as it tries to fire on one cylinder.

Results -
Primary terminals (across positive and negative) is 2.20k Ohms, which is ridiculously high? Suff I'm finding on ignition coil testing is saying it should be more like 0.4 to 2.0 Ohms.

The secondary resistance between the positive and the HT output is coming in at 3.05k Ohms which should typically be over 6.0 Ohms.

Positive to casing gives same as pos to neg terminals.

Now if the coil is knackered, its doing a good job of pretending its not as I have a spark on all cylinders?

Maybe its weak?

Any Idea what the readings should be. I'm going to check/compare my Karmann coil an see what results I get from thst just to ensure Im not doing something wrong, as the Karmann does run sweet.
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Old 24-11-2019, 06:01 PM   #19
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Just tested My Karmann Ghia coil which works perfectly for a 50 year old coil -

Results -
Primary terminals (across positive and negative) is 0.4 Ohms, which is in range for a good coil. Suff I'm finding on ignition coil testing is saying it should be 0.4 to 2.0 Ohms.

The secondary resistance between the positive and the HT output is coming in at 7.93k Ohms which should typically be over 6k to 8k Ohms, (with some as high as 15k Ohms) so that fine.

Tested the Arosa coil one again just to make sure.

Results -
Primary terminals (across positive and negative) is 480 Ohms (I had to dial the mulimeter up from 200 to 2000 to get a reading) when the Ghia coil gave me a reading on the 200 multimeter range of 0.4. So this does not look right, Its too high.

The secondary resistance between the positive and the HT output is coming in at 3.05k Ohms which should typically be over 6.0k Ohms, so looks dodgy.
Must have does something wrong when I tested the Arosa coil first time to get 2.20k?

Then checked the HT leads (while connected to the cap to check the cap connection also).

So in order of length as numbered by VW on the OE leads -
Coil to center terminal of dizzy = 2.11k Ohms
4 = 5.48k Ohms
3 = 5.94K Ohms
2 = 5.74k Ohms
1 = 5.83k Ohms

In theory they should get more residence as the length increases which is broadly right other than the exception of No 3.

Flexing the leads whilst under test didn't cause any of the values to move or flicker.

Checked one of my new Karmann Ghia leads (much thicker) and got 1.92K Ohms. Significantly lower, but doubtful this is the cause.

Last edited by Mooresy; 24-11-2019 at 06:08 PM..
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Old 24-11-2019, 09:30 PM   #20
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Your plug lead resistances look pretty good to me. I have absolutely no idea what the coil resistance for primary & secondary circuits should be as I have nothing to reference them to. Itís possible that the cylinders are still flooded with old fuel. Remove the spark plugs & fuel pump relay then crank the engine with the throttle wide open to flush the cylinders. I would then squirt some engine oil into the plug holes as the piston rings could be dry, this will raise cylinder compression. Itís also possible that the spark plugs are not 100% dry of fuel. Put them in the oven to evaporate any remaining fuel residue. Give this a try.

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