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Aircooled Mechanical Tech A Q & A Forum devoted to Aircooled Mechanical Issues. Got a problem? Then ask in here. Please, no 'For Sale' or 'Want To Buy' ads, plugs for your 'business', links to 'for sale' ads or Ebay links to your (or your mate's) auction (use the VZi 'Classifieds' section) - this also includes thinly veiled 'What's My Car Worth?' threads and "Who Can Sell Me A . . ." posts.

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Old 05-09-2019, 04:23 AM   #11
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For dark colours you should get down to 800 grit to give a flat finish. Cured primer ALWAYS needs keying. You can only spray directly onto primer if doing wet on wet. This means the primer has just finished flashing off and you then hit it with the 2K.

Wet on wet will give you orange peel no matter what teh paint supplier says. I think there's some newer products that kind of flow coat but for a DIYer block sanding is the best method for a good result.

Always read your TDS for the product and check the temp where you are spraying. I usually give an extra 5 mins ontop of the TDS time, calculated from air temp, just to ensure the solvents had enough time to bugger off
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:07 AM   #12
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Quote:
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if you're using 2k gloss it's easier. flat it back and then whip a mist coat then a couple of full coats over it - making sure each coat has flashed off (solvent evaporated) before the next.

then leave that and see what happens...
Won't here be a line between the old and the new paint, especially if I mask off? I assume this can be sanded/polished out. It's not exactly smooth to start tho which might be an issue lol
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psimitar View Post
For dark colours you should get down to 800 grit to give a flat finish. Cured primer ALWAYS needs keying. You can only spray directly onto primer if doing wet on wet. This means the primer has just finished flashing off and you then hit it with the 2K.

Wet on wet will give you orange peel no matter what teh paint supplier says. I think there's some newer products that kind of flow coat but for a DIYer block sanding is the best method for a good result.

Always read your TDS for the product and check the temp where you are spraying. I usually give an extra 5 mins ontop of the TDS time, calculated from air temp, just to ensure the solvents had enough time to bugger off
After the bollocks the paint shoo caused me I won't be trusting a word any say again!!
ILL be honest I can't remember if I keyed the primer before I started as spent so long rubbing the damd car. There is an orange paint coat over the primer and then the wrong brown they sold me.....then the 2nd brown.....which is also wrong but decided to live with it....so hopefully it's just to top coat that's bubbling as on advice of the paint shop I only scotched the 1st brown b4 applying the 2nd.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:17 AM   #14
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Looking at the pics it looks like I at least 800 the primer. Maybe didnt do the gutters and ridges as thoroughly as needed. Hoping it's between paint layers rather than back to primer tho as give me more options.

Thanks all for advice again
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:32 AM   #15
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Won't here be a line between the old and the new paint, especially if I mask off? I assume this can be sanded/polished out. It's not exactly smooth to start tho which might be an issue lol
yeah. sorry, i assumed you'd do a whole panel at a time. i've never tried blending new paint into old.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:14 AM   #16
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The paint will probably still even now contain solvent
I would leave it for now
Any pant that hasn't adhered will react if fresh applied over top even 2k
When you blow in use 2 " masking tape folded back on itself so as not to create a line and blow in to it with gun a sort of sweeping motion
When 2 k came out had loads of this with the old boys doing cars in lockups
All used to cellulose and synthetic

Best one I viewed was unactivated 2k fella thought he could just want 2 weeks still tacky!
Had to wash it all off with petrol and prewipe
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:41 PM   #17
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The lifting at the 'crease' is something I have seen a hundred times. It is caused quite simply by inadequate prep - either by not sanding/keying sufficiently or not cleaning this area correctly before topcoat.
There are also pinholes in the filler or primer as evidenced by the tiny pits in the topcoat. Sorry, but it's all got to come off.
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