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Aircooled Mechanical Tech A Q & A Forum devoted to Aircooled Mechanical Issues. Got a problem? Then ask in here. Please, no 'For Sale' or 'Want To Buy' ads, plugs for your 'business', links to 'for sale' ads or Ebay links to your (or your mate's) auction (use the VZi 'Classifieds' section) - this also includes thinly veiled 'What's My Car Worth?' threads and "Who Can Sell Me A . . ." posts.

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Old 14-08-2019, 01:37 PM   #11
brewsy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi_balls View Post
anyone got an opinion or advice on my last 3 points?
Hey Tommi,
Ive got lots of ideas (but not much overall experience) but just having a look at the 110 and top of a google search is Dan Simpsons webpage:
http://www.dansimpsonvwengines.com/p...w110-camshaft/
He suggests dual valve springs if you go over 1.25 ratio rockers, your CR sounds correct for that cam but seems that he thinks 1776 is the biggest youd want to go for with a 110. So if you keep the 1914 then it would probably help the bottom end torque as compared to Zeds 1584cc <3000rpm hole.

Id personally suggest that an oil cooler would indeed be a good idea and my ideas would suggest a oil thermostat so that you get quick oil warming yet correct cooling when the going gets tough.

Go for a lightened 12lbs flywheel as a quicker rev up always feels sportier and keep a stock or stock sized pulley.
As you arent going to be revving to the moon (didnt you say that earlier?) and youve gone for a CW crank you should be OK for crank flex/vibration issues.

That spec sounds like it would make a great daily with the ability to get pretty good mileage AND have some tyre burning fun.
Personally Id keep the heat exchangers so that you could use the car in the winter still!!

Cheers
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Old 14-08-2019, 03:07 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply.
Yes I keep finding Danís page although everything like this detail you highlighted is copy paste from aircooled.net. Not a bad thing but I guess that means he shares the same opinion.
For me I feel Iím on the cusp with valvetrain weight but I think what pushes it over the edge is the 1.3 and now the quest begins to find a suitable dual spring weight, at the moment Iím inclined to go for the next step up (not shims). Doing my best here to give the valvetrain some sympathy through good design.
Based on more fishing (closed/at quoted lift):
ē CB HD singles: 54/100kg
ē Gene Berg dual: 68/145Kg
ē JPM dual: 93/181Kg
ē SCAT dual: 50Kg/118Kg
ē CB dual: TBC

Oil coolers: Well I design these for OEMís for a living and it bugs me (no pun) to buy an off the shelf item as its total guess work. However we are dealing with antiquated technology here and the inline thermostat will help. Donít get me started on pressure drops. Anyway I have to insist on a cooler with a fan and canít find any decent one that are not under the sump (low ride). Any suggestions boys and girls?
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Old 14-08-2019, 03:09 PM   #13
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110 or C35 at 8.5/8.7 to 1 will be decent I've used both and couldn't tell the difference...
The whole cam/lifter compatibility issue boils down to their being 2 cam blanks. SC-1 or EP-12
SC use Scat lifters, EP use Engle... The confusion lies around various brands rebranding the same lifters. Webcams for instance use both EP and SC blanks but their lifters are all Scat

Light flywheel will rev happier but a heavy one makes it easy to lug around town.

Never had an oil cooler before until the 2276 but that's only because it's 10.6:1 and not sure how it'll cope

Stateside single springs might be of interest to you
111lbs @ 1.5"
247lbs @ 1"

or their duals

149lbs @ 1.53"
367lbs @ 1.03" (0.500")

Last edited by lukej; 14-08-2019 at 03:22 PM..
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Old 18-08-2019, 07:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi_balls View Post
Oil coolers: Well I design these for OEMís for a living and it bugs me (no pun) to buy an off the shelf item as its total guess work. Donít get me started on pressure drops.
Tommi,
Care to elaborate re the pressure drop?
Im assuming that you know/guestimate what the drop is across an average heat exchanger?
Is it excessive? Does that mean that you need higher pressure
on the input side?
Are we using oil lines that are too small??

Cheers
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Old 19-08-2019, 12:37 AM   #15
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Not on the last 3 points but about your 40IDF's get a fuel pressure regulator installed, Webers work best at no less than 2.5 lbs or more than 3.5 lbs psi @ 3,400 RPM. Also, with those 94mm jugs you might need to go with bigger venturis, 30 or even 32mm.
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Old 19-08-2019, 03:29 PM   #16
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I'm running JC's single springs, steel retainers, Thorsten Pieper lifters and JC's aluminum HD pushrods.
On a Web 86b with 1.3 rockers revs happily to 6300k.
JC's springs are the same quality as used in Japanese engines.
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Old 21-08-2019, 10:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewsy View Post

Tommi,
Care to elaborate re the pressure drop?
Im assuming that you know/guestimate what the drop is across an average heat exchanger?
Is it excessive? Does that mean that you need higher pressure
on the input side?
Are we using oil lines that are too small??

Cheers
Well we dont guess anything! Its how long is a piece of string type of scenario to directly answer. In essence the higher pressure drop will mean the heat transfer fluid (in this case oil) is worked harder due to a more turbulent flow. This is a good thing within reason. There will be parasitic pressures losses from badly designed flow paths and these should be minimised. Seeing as we are not all building bespoke parts not afflicted with reams of lab data and generally we are reliant on Asian junk, we should be using the biggest hoses we can reasonably hook up. 3/8 npt fittings to me based on what the OEMs are using is not far off. A 13mm hose is much bigger than the ports in the pump from what i recall. We did a study recently for one OEM and increasing the connection diameter by 1.2mm would reduce the pressure drop by 40%. Now that is not a rule of thumb by any means but just goes to show a little can mean big changes. An example like the CB maxi pump 3 full flow is a hideous example of poor internal flow path. 90deg fittings are a big no no too. Use smooth radius fittings.

We should really be keeping a watchful eye on oil pressures when running external parts, particularly at idle and cold start will see the most detrimental loss. A 30mm pump would help although i read this has other massive impacts on the oil system which have to be compensated for.

How we properly compensate on a AC engine will really require input from someone else with expert knowledge of this system.

Last edited by tommi_balls; 21-08-2019 at 10:37 PM..
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Old 21-08-2019, 10:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iain ambrose View Post
I'm running JC's single springs, steel retainers, Thorsten Pieper lifters and JC's aluminum HD pushrods.
On a Web 86b with 1.3 rockers revs happily to 6300k.
JC's springs are the same quality as used in Japanese engines.
I will have a look into this. What are your valve sizes and material?
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Old 22-08-2019, 08:44 AM   #19
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When I added a sandwich plate, an empi in line oil thermostat, approx 3m of 1/2" hose and a cooler to my stock pump type-4 engine, the oil pressure...stayed exactly the same. Don't over think it.
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Old 22-08-2019, 09:31 AM   #20
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Flow and pressure are two completely different metrics.

Given this is my job , it's very hard to ignore.
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