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Old 22-06-2006, 12:29 PM   #11
Peter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raph
..Where under the fuel tank do you put your bit of 2x2?
Remove the fuel tank (as you need to anyway) and place the 2x2 so it craddles the the front side panels at the top of their arches. However, I think the steering column gets in the way, so you might have to back that off. I used this method mostly at the rear, where the weight is more significant. The front is so light that the special bumper brackets would usually be fine. You don't have to use the wood as large hooks would do just as well.
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Old 22-06-2006, 12:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter
You don't have to use the wood as large hooks would do just as well.
Would you think that using screw-in eyes in the holes that the fuel tank clamps come out of would be ok, or would that put too much strain in one point?
I'm going to make an a-frame to mount on the rear bumper brackets as i think your idea was excellent there. I can make a cradle that will enable me to drop the 'pan out as much as lift the body.

Thanks Peter.
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Old 22-06-2006, 12:42 PM   #13
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Great info Peter.

Once the channel is removed where would you support the body ie where would you place the trestles?
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Old 22-06-2006, 01:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raph
Would you think that using screw-in eyes in the holes that the fuel tank clamps come out of would be ok, or would that put too much strain in one point?...
That might work, although I would use all four. The front mounts are stronger than the rears (IMHO) and I would do this only if I had to. Wherever possible go for the most trustworthy lift points. Remember that,although I said the front is light, this all changes when you lift the back. If the front is always a little higher then there will be less stress at that end.
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Old 22-06-2006, 01:10 PM   #15
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About the door gap, I presume it's different for some models, as with the 1302s it's at 925mm on both sides for me. There is door sag, as the bottom of the door mildy scrapes the heater channel when closing.

Also can you get the Mexican heater channels in the UK?

I had planned to fit the new channels with the floorpan in situ, then remove and swap for another floorpan. By this article it would imply to take the floorpan off, do one heater channel, then the other, then put the replacement floorpan back on?
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Old 22-06-2006, 01:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCooledNewBee
..Once the channel is removed where would you support the body ie where would you place the trestles?
Under the rear side panels, below the rear luggage area, and under the fuel tank opening. Replace one channel at a time, although you can do both at once, if you feel brave.
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Old 22-06-2006, 01:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadluke
About the door gap, I presume it's different for some models, as with the 1302s it's at 925mm on both sides for me.
I hope not because I think the doors are the same

Thanks for the post, Peter!
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Old 22-06-2006, 01:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadluke
About the door gap, I presume it's different for some models, as with the 1302s it's at 925mm on both sides for me...
The gap is the same for all Bugs (1941 to 2004) 1200, 1300, 1302, 1303 and convertibles. The actual dimention is 950mm +1, so you are taking it from the wrong place - Go out to the outer recess.

Quote:
Also can you get the Mexican heater channels in the UK?
I believe so. Heritage?

Quote:
I had planned to fit the new channels with the floorpan in situ, then remove and swap for another floorpan. By this article it would imply to take the floorpan off, do one heater channel, then the other, then put the floorpan back on?
Yes.
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Old 22-06-2006, 02:23 PM   #19
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Thanks for your reply.

I have to replace bth rear quarters, should this be done after the channels?
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Old 22-06-2006, 02:57 PM   #20
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I agree - but in my cabriolet - I jogged the shell to get the door gaps correct then welded in bracing - especially as the heater cahnnels were so bad I was worried about the car breaking in two when i took it off the chassis
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