Trikky2 suggested I did a write up on how I converted my 2l 76 bay to run on LPG. I have seen many write ups on other forums but a search on LPG returns nothing on VZI (I think thats a forum problem rather than there being nothing on there , or I can't manage to do a proper search!) so here goes..
Total conversion cost £650
certification for safety and insurance purposes £35
I have a 2 litre 76 bay that breaks down on every motorway he has ever been on and before I start please may I state that all I say is opinion and open to suggestion, if you are not confident then seek further advice or get it done by a pro (and make sure your van is running good before you start (unless you're like me and just wanna get it done and sort out the original probs later
)) i DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPOSIBILITY FOR YOU BLOWING YOURSELF UP! I AM NOT A QUALIFIED LPG INSTALLER THEREFORE CAN ONLY DETAIL WHAT I DID, RIGHT OR WRONG.
STEP 1: Get yourself a copy of the cop 11 regulations! very important, these regs are not the law but bloody good advice! read them and then read them again!
STEP 2: choose your kit supplier and figure out what type of kit you require: my system is an open loop system 70l upright toridal tank with twin mixers because I have twin solex but you may require single mixer.
STEP 3: Decide where you want to locate your tank, under the bed? above the spare wheel compartment?, this will determine the type of tank you will need and the size you can fit in. When deciding on tank size then obviously the space you have will determine this but go for the biggest you can fit in. the tanks generally hold (as a safety measure) 20% less than they state so a 70l tank will hold 56 litres, you generally get a few less mpg than on petrol due to the nature of gas so figure out carefully the distance you will be able to go before needing to fill up. having to switch back to petrol cause you are miles away from an LPG vendor will gut you let alone eat into your payback time!
STEP 4: measure your carb(s) mouth (where the air filter fits onto the carb, measure this to the millimetre and pass these details to your kit supplier so they can provide the correct mixer(s) with your kit
STEP 5: order your kit and fit it!
If this thread becomes popular I will add more details but I may well make the installation sound like childs play but please don't think for one minute that there won't be grazed nuckles and the like, I just tend to forget the bad times and smile everytime I fill up! so don't be suprised if I suddenly say later on in the thread "oh yeah, I had that problem too!"
Basically the kit contains:
1: your chosen tank and cradle
2: vaporiser (that turns liquid gas into low pressure vapour for your engine to suck in
3: mixers (which sit ontop of your carb(s) and allow your engine to suck gas from them and air from your standard air filter)
4: some copper pipe covered in pvc (2 sizes , the larger bore is for filling and the smaller to feed the system
5: rubber LPG Fuel pipe (that goes from the vaporiser to the mixer(s) on the carb(s)
6: compression type gas fittings which with the aid of a spanner allow all your joints to be leak free
7: power valve (that sits between your vapouriser and carb mixers in the rubber pipe, this controls how much gas vapour you allow your engine to suck. bit like your mixture screw on your carb)
8: a couple of solenoids (electrically operated cut off valves for gas and petrol)
9: control switch and fuel gauge for your cockpit
10: wiring loom (mine wasn't long enough on a few wires so might need adjustment cause unlike most cars, the engine is a good way from the cockpit but on the other hand, unless you have the tank in the cockpit your pipe work won't have to run as far as in a normal car!
11: Some ducting (for running pipes and electrics through and for venting)
12: detail instructions (well I did from my supplier! and a help line)
13: Exhause probe (for heating the liquid gas so your vaporiser doesnt freeze up because you dont have water in aircooooooled) these are are a bit of a grey area in respect to the cop 11 regulations and there are rumours of mini water system being used but the suppliers of these systems won't even respond to you emails unless you are a trader LPG installer so I wish you better luck in finding info than I managed to get!
14: probably some other bits that I'll remember as I post more details.
first I fitted the tank, 70l upright toridal (which you will pay a little more for)mine sits just above the original spare wheel well as shown in the pic, as my spare is on the front of the vehicle with a chalk board on the front that the local kids take great joy in writing rude words on (I like it really or I wouldn't leave the chalk out!) DONT FIT YOUR TANK FIRST LIKE I DID! thats what I learned, figure out where you want it put the cradle in , make brackets out of an old stairlift if you need to (as I did) but dont bolt the tank in place till later or you will be unbolting it again and again.
more coming, I just wanna check that the pics work
Pics work (a little large I agree but hey, at least you can see whats going on!)
after fitting the tank, I wen't along the route of fitting everything else except the pipe work and wires because you wouldn't know how much pipework you needed until you have the main components in place.
so next I fitted the vaporiser inn the engine bay on the left bolting it to the spare wheel well, just above the vaporiser and nearer the back of the vehicle I bolted the lpg cut off valve to the spare wheel well. you can see these in the huge pic
then I fitted the mixers on the carbs, they just slip on top of your carb (if they are the right size!) and then you pop your airfilter on top of the mixers simple! (or maybe you try to sit them on top of the carbs, figure that they are too small, get supplier to send 2 new ones a few mm bigger, then realise that the arms on your airbox that feed the air are to low to then fit ontop of your mixers because of the raised height and so chop off the bottom of your air filter arms badly with a hacksaw and then use high temp silicone to seal until you think of something better see pics
Then get a hole cutter and desicrate your poor bay for a new filler, somewhere strong to resist the pressure you put on when twisting the filler pipe on at the garage. Remember, the shorter the run from filler to tank, the quicker the fill at the service station, so get your filler as close to the tank as possible,
heres a couple of pics of the filler inside and out, just as a note, I made life easier for myself by making sure the filler backed onto the engine bay, if it backs inside the living quaters then you will need to add venting pipes and the like on the filler to make sure that if there was a leak during filling that when you get into your van it aint full of gas!
more coming, I'm just paranoid about this computer crashing!
sow now the tank filler is clamped in (use a bit of silicone arond it before fitting to prevent the new edge from rusting)
Next bolt in the petrol cut off solenoid, I placed mine right at the back firewall to the right (where my fuel pipe came up)
and then last but least of the main components, the exhaust probe, it's about 12 to 15 inches long. you drill a hole in the side of your exhaust, my exhaust may be different to yours so make your decisions where you think it may fit, mine is shown in the pic, i managed to get it on the left of the exhaust running along the length. simply drill a hole about the same size of the probe, weld the little boss nut to the exhaust and then insert the probe through it and clamp it up! (Or drill hole in exhaust, make it a little bigger, cause the probe won't fit in cause your masonary drill aint really the tool for the job, then resort to angling the drill left and right, up and down till the hole is then big enough for the probe, slide in the probe only to realise exhausts contain baffles and these need to be drilled too. only 2 baffles in mine it seems thank goodness ! slide the probe in, it's a nice tight fit with no ratttles hoorah! bolt it up)
now there are probably other bits to do on main components but I'll edit as I think about them.
so before we do the pipework lets figure out how this system works and then we can figure out where the pipes go!
so you fill your van with LPG so that means the 8mm pipe needs to run
FROM your filler to your tank, easy!
Then the liquid gas has to come from the tank and be heated but really just incase something was to go wrong with the exhaust probe then you want to go through the LPG shut off vavle first. 6mm pipe from now on
SO FROM the tank TO the shut off valve,
FROM the shut off valve TO the exhaust probe to heat the gas,
FROM the exhaust probe to the vaporiser
AFTER the vaporiser, we move into the rubber LPG pipe because we are dealing with low pressure gas vapour, not Liquid gas
RUBBER pipe from vaporiser to the the carb mixer(s) one or two depending on your carb setup
Now we need a way to control the amount of gas the carbs suck in so you have a power valve which just jubilee clips between the vaporiser and carb mixer (before the pipe splits on twin mixers) its just a screw in valve really that restricks the amount of gas you can suck:
Bingo, thats how it works:
now for a few more pics and details:
see more below cause it wont let me put any more in this bit!