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Machine 7, high quality air-cooled  restoration and performance parts
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Old 20-12-2017, 11:44 AM   #111
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Going to follow this thread, looks fantastic so far, great skills! [I like the classic jags and Ferrari's in the background too!

Ps the horn push just pops off with a bit of gentle force.
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Old 20-12-2017, 09:13 PM   #112
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I seem to remember it pops off in each corner then needs rotating 90 degrees to pull out of the middle of the wheel, but at that point it'll not be attached.
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Old 21-12-2017, 07:48 AM   #113
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Thanks. I'll give it a try
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Old 21-12-2017, 01:12 PM   #114
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With the fuel tank frame tacked in place and the tank in, it's obvious that it will be too tall.

I have a few options:

Cut down the tank

Separate the top and bottom of the tank and make a new,slimmer top

Make a whole new tank

Make a tank to fit above the gearbox.

I plan to do some long distance touring in the car so a smaller, cut down tank doesn't really seem the right way. Moving the tank behind the seats will exaggerate the weight imbalance. Hmmmm I think I'll put off the decision till Later in the build!
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Old 21-12-2017, 01:14 PM   #115
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A twin tank system? ...........slimline one up front and an auxiliary one behind the seats. ...... that could work
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Old 21-12-2017, 03:27 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc66 View Post
A twin tank system? ...........slimline one up front and an auxiliary one behind the seats. ...... that could work
Or reprofile the underside to drop it further down?
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Old 19-01-2018, 10:45 PM   #117
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I've been busy recently so not as much progress as I'd like.

That hasn't stopped me thinking about this though. I've actually been loosing sleep over it! Lol

It's the dash that's been causing me the grief. It's amazed me how much thought has to go into this area. It affects the scuttle, front bodywork, door design, gauge choice, steering action, wheel position as well as dictating the side bodywork. If I get it wrong it'll cause major problems or compromises later on.

The hoop that I welded in as the lower dash edge was too high so I cut and welded it 20mm lower. That doesn't sound much but it allowed me to drop the fuel tank down, solving one issue! I'm confident that the tie rods won't hit the tank as it's been "clearenced" lol

When I have finished this car one of the last jobs will be to fit the gauges. However I needed to make the choice over which gauges to use now, so I can design the dash around them. My choice is between the original 1966 and the more modern (and sporty) 1303 gauge.

I plan to have a speedometer, rev counter, fuel gauge and water temp gauge. I also need a rear fog light switch and warning lamp as well as the brake warning lamp.
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Old 19-01-2018, 10:48 PM   #118
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After a lot of research I've gone for the original 1966 gauge. I can get a matching rev counter from several places. The water temp gauge and fuel gauge is a little more problematic, but I do have a cunning plan......
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Old 19-01-2018, 10:52 PM   #119
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Now I've done the dash design I could get on and build it.

Using the 30mm tube I bent up the top hoop. This was really tricky to get right! I ended up making it from 4 pieces. It's a little hard to capture in a photo, but it has a dome for the gauge pod and curves in two axis into the A post area. I didn't want it to just go straight across the car.
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Old 19-01-2018, 10:55 PM   #120
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I've photographed it the best I can
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