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Old 23-06-2018, 05:55 PM   #11
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Yeah would love to see that. Going try the new mounts with a traction bar and 2nd front mount and try tgat. Desperse to get back on rhe road for summer tho so will have to be a working progress. Will keep the thread updated how get on incase anyone else interested especially those running alt motors.
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Old 23-06-2018, 06:32 PM   #12
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3 main things we found that cause wheel hop, bad shocks[and kyb are bad!!! ] lack of control of spring plates[factory rubber donuts are a problem particularly old soft worn ones] and 3rd is tyre choice, unless you run a dedicated track tyre you will have problems.
On a IRS car frame fork movement really shouldn't affect wheels[but if it moves to much gearbox case can crack], and you don't need a front gearbox mount or traction bar if its all good elsewhere.
This car has neither, just frame forks tied to cage, mid mount and rear mount, urethane in IRS arm pivots, urethane inner bush on spring plates and bronze bushing on outer and decent shocks/upgraded torsion bars

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtjQQcIoFg
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Old 25-06-2018, 09:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwjo View Post
3 main things we found that cause wheel hop, bad shocks[and kyb are bad!!! ] lack of control of spring plates[factory rubber donuts are a problem particularly old soft worn ones] and 3rd is tyre choice, unless you run a dedicated track tyre you will have problems.
On a IRS car frame fork movement really shouldn't affect wheels[but if it moves to much gearbox case can crack], and you don't need a front gearbox mount or traction bar if its all good elsewhere.
This car has neither, just frame forks tied to cage, mid mount and rear mount, urethane in IRS arm pivots, urethane inner bush on spring plates and bronze bushing on outer and decent shocks/upgraded torsion bars

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtjQQcIoFg
Rich Webbs cabrio in that guise is my all time fav bug!

Thanks for the info. Will look into urethane bushings for the a arms tho may have to get bug ones and open up as guessing anything with the word porsche involved will be silly bo££ocks

Also I still have the stock donuts. Anyone know if bug irs and pork irs are the same size as using cut down pork springplates covers.
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Old 25-06-2018, 01:24 PM   #14
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Al...i supply Protech Shocks, 13 stage single adjustable for bump and rebound or available in double adjustable allowing separate damping adjustment. As stated this will cope with weight transfer and help to keep the wheel/tyre on the tarmac. They are state of the art and used by racers, grass trackers, major sports car manufacturers such as Noble and VW aircooled drag racers....you'll be in good company

They can also be bushed with rose joints to allow for any offset between the top/lower mounts too.

Single adjust = £200 pr
Double adjust = £350 pr

Danny Pike uses and recommends Protech on his drag cars.
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Old 20-01-2020, 09:06 PM   #15
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Well got some protech adjustable rear dampers off brown bug and think it's solved to some extent. GR2's off. Now the GR2's felt pretty stiff back in the day of running an aircooled motor. When the scoob went in they felt like stock dampers quite soft.
Well the protech went on and went up 4 clicks on the adjuster and that made them GR2 equivalents. Soft but I hoped better dampers would sort the hop but didn't.
Can see in first few mins the hop in this vid...
https://youtu.be/_HlmegTDu_4
I tried 5 clicks......stiffer ride but no change.

Anyway got a lift in a carrera 4s the other week and though to myself fu**in'ell that's hard!! But no wheel hop. So car came out this weekend an thought I'd see how hard it will go!
Back to 5. Hard but hops.
6 harder still and some hop.
7....fealt like 6 really but NO HOP!
I've still to test with a 3/4k launch off the line when dryer and somewhere safer to test than Sunday driver roads. Pretty chuffed as first time it hooked it was propper 'yeah baby'
Still going to upgrade the donuts when funds and time allows and fingers x'd should hit the12's if I actually make the pod this year without melting something important
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Old 28-01-2020, 05:42 PM   #16
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The cage seems to be devoid of triangulation which would otherwise make it considerably stiffer - make it work for its living! The curved (or pre-failed as I call them) tubes won't help matters either, so have a good look at what you can do to stiffen it all up by trying to place tubes only in tension or compression, not bending.
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Old 03-05-2020, 11:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetlebank View Post
The cage seems to be devoid of triangulation which would otherwise make it considerably stiffer - make it work for its living! The curved (or pre-failed as I call them) tubes won't help matters either, so have a good look at what you can do to stiffen it all up by trying to place tubes only in tension or compression, not bending.
Funny you should mention this. Ive been toying with the idea of creating a clamp bar between the cage J bards to the frame forks and out to the damper mounts etc. Bit like the rear trapezium bars or whatever they are called. Just not got round to it and may have solved the issue now anyway, but still on the to do list.
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Old 03-05-2020, 11:45 PM   #18
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Just published vid today on the wheel hop fix.....
https://youtu.be/w3rr-sBO8t8
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