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Sweep floor turbo build :D

7K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  GARRICK.CLARK 
#1 ·
Hi folks,
Thought I'd do a thread and see what can be done on a tight budget with parts I have lying around.

The engine will be built using almost entirely of used parts with the exception of bearings gaskets etc

It will be race only so I am not held back by the restraints of cooling systems or pump gas and maximum power will be the aim.

I will where possible fabricate parts like the header and intake system for example in order to try and keep costs to a minimum.

The aim is to see what can be achieved without just opening up your wallet :), that said nothing is free however I will publish costs.

This will be a long term project done in between jobs, racing and family so may take a while but id like to be testing the engine early 2020.

Thanks

Jay
 
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#2 ·
So far the list of parts I have are as follows:

Used autolinea case cut for 94mm barrels, full flow oiling.
(not a supercase so isn't shuffle pinned etc) has 1mmline bore std thrust.
Genuine vw 69mm crank used but never ground will need a polish up and measure.
8 dowel forged chromo flywheel (used)
Webcam 86b with cb cam followers all used but serviceable. (undecided on this at the mo but its here so may well use it)
Genuine VW 043 heads will need full rebuild and LOTS of port and chamber work, also will upgrade valves and springs etc but do plan to keep stock size valves at the mo.
Schadek 30mm oil pump plugged for full flow (used)
Scat power pulley.

I plan to source:
92mm forged pistons and some thick wall barrels.
Straight cut cam gears
8mm head studs
1.4:1 ratio rockers
Pushrods Steel (I have some used already cut to length however they may not work depending on the rest of my valvetrain)


Everything will be sourced good second hand where possible :)
 
#4 ·
Go for it. I did this once on a 1914.

Interesting results - i threw it together and didn't calc CR. - it was about 6:1 and the plugs sooted up every 100 miles or less.

But when i had time I took it out, CR'd it, had the barrels machined accordingly and it was a bombproof rocket mote in the end. Made nearly the same numbers as my 2165 big ticket motor made by a "name" from Up North.

Take your time, stick to your principles of lo-buck and you can really be surprised with the results if you take the time to put it together properly.
 
#5 ·
Had a look through to find some of the parts I plan to use, case looking good to use but one of the 043 heads has a spark plug insert which has now come out so will probably hunt through my old parts and see if I can find a better one.
Also found a stage two kennedy clutch :)
 

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#7 ·
Managed to find a bit of time this week to sort through my cylinder head stash and found three good 040 heads that I can use for the build, I stripped them and removed all studs and they are now soaking in the parts washer.

Next week I have my parts washer company coming round to demo some other cleaning solutions including an ultrasonic cleaning tank so hopefully I'll test it out on these :D
 

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#8 ·
Also I dug out the crank and flywheel I plan to use. the crank is std at the mo but looks like it may need a grind but ill try and polish it first then measure it up, if ok ill drill it for 8 dowel.
The flywheel has seen some action before but will live again, a few years back this flywheel ripped through 8 dowel pins on my cheapo Chinese crank as I launched hard :lol:
Still I have since cleaned up the damage and it runs true when bolted up to a crank.
Now onto the extra lightnening….
The flywheel started at 13lbs, I'll take as much weight as I can off of this, coupled with the light non c/w crank it will make for a snappy little engine that revs/builds boost fast.
I made a start on this but then broke my cutter :rolleyes: will finish it up when I get some time and a new cutter.
 

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#10 ·
Haven't made much progress on this lately as family life and work is taking up all my time. The 2020 end date is looking unlikely at this rate but there is no rush tbh.
The crank has polished up nice and measures out nicely, so will be 8 dowelled when I get some more time, then off to balance.

As for heads I'm not having much luck as one of the 040s that looked ok revealed a hairline crack from the spark plug thread when cleaned up :(

Ill keep hunting through my stash must have some good ones in there somewhere lol

Ill try and get some pics up of the crank and heads soon
 
#12 · (Edited)
Yeh the welding is the easy part but welding that close to valve seat can create issues down the line.
If I was to weld it I would strip it a bare casting then grind out the crack heat the casting throughout and weld it up.
It would then probably require machining to allow the valve seats to be pressed in with the correct interference.

All stuff that can be done of course but not financially viable for this build or head with that value.


I'm sure I can find some, I know I have some Mexican 043s which are good but have the smaller valves so id prefer to use some 113s which I believe I have a good set :)

Thanks, Jay
 
#13 ·
A little progress and finally I have some heads I can use :)
Found this pair of 311s which I sent off with some parts for vapour blasting, no cracks, spar plug threads all good and they cleaned up very nice :)

Also here is a pic of the crank all polished up :)
 

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#17 ·
So a lot has happened since starting this thread/build so it had been sidelined, I am however back on it now and will continue forwards :)

Some of the parts I had for the build have been used now including the crank, clutch and the 311 heads.

I have plenty of stock cranks so ill dig one out, as for heads I have found and blasted some 113 heads that will be great for this :)

Thanks Jay
 
#18 ·
These are the heads I will use ...

The following pictures show the valve guides being cored to release pressure and then the castings heated up to allow the guide to be safely removed without damage to the heads.

The guides are pressed in towards the combustion chamber as there is often a build up of carbon around the guide which can cause it to bind on removal.

Thanks Jay
 

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#19 ·
The guides are removed and port shaping has begun starting with removing the exhaust port guide boss.

Also dug out some new valve guides I have, note the difference in length and the shoulder which prevents the guide pushing down through the head. I will most likely use the shortest style for both intake and exhaust.

Also marked out the inlet flange for port shape.

More soon :)

Thanks Jay
 

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#20 ·
Spent a few hours this afternoon on the heads and made some good progress. The inlet ports I have opened out slightly in a small oval shape towards the spark plug to give a "straighter" shot into the cylinder, I have not taken much material out of the intake as I'll have boost on my side forcing the air fuel charge in, the exhaust ports will need much more attention.

I made a template form a gasket for the first port and then used the same template for all four ports to keep them the same.

Here are some pics …..
 

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#24 ·
So I had a dig through my collection of old 311vw rods and picked the best set all that were also within a few grams of each other :)

I gave them a quick wiggle check with a new piston pin to check the small ends feel ok and will check them for straightness this week before an end to end balance job.

Thanks Jay
 

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