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Old 06-11-2019, 08:55 PM   #1
Mooresy
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Default SEAT Arosa 1.0 wont start/run right

Hello All,
I have a 98' SEAT Arosa 1.0 with engine code AER. with 35,000 miles on the clock. It was a great runner until it was parked up at the side of the house 2 years and 8 months ago. I started it every 6 months or so and ran it for a while with no problems. The Saturday before last I decided to get it back on the road so jump started it and it started first time and settled down to tick over nicely for 20 mins or so until I turned it off. As the battery was knackered I ordered a new one that week (reasonable quality VARTA). This was fitted this weekend, unfortunately when I came to start it it was running really bad. like it was only on 3 cylinders. Instead of persisting I decided that the fuel was most probably past it, so I got hold of a new fuel filter, drained the tank and filled up with fresh fuel. The old fuel was the colour of Whiskey so it wasn't good.
No change. still very lumpy. Checked the Dizy and all HT connections etc, Nothing obviously loose etc. Tried unplugging cylinder 1, this made no difference to the running, 2 and 3 caused the engine to stall, 4 also made no difference. All HT's seems to be arcing away strongly to the metal shrouds on all cylinders. Checked the plugs for damage and cleaned (looked really good actually) however, 1 and 4 were wet. Didn't have any spare plugs or leads so sprayed the whole area in WD40 to see what happened. started and ran beautifully, 5 mins then reverted to running badly.Tried the spay again, but still ran badly.
Decided to compression test it just to clear up any concern about valves. Did this with a cheap AM-Tech unit which I know from testing my Ghia is not correct and it gave 85 psi across all cylinders which is very low, but that's the crappy gauge. the important thing was they were all identical. Checked the connections to the injectors for security etc. Tried to start again, but now would not start at all. Just the odd fire and backfire through the throttle. Checked the dizzy again and found it to be cracked. GREAT. ordered a new on. This arrived today. Fitted it, still the same. Wont start. Checked the leads and coil with my timing strobe and there is power traveling down the leads from the dizzy, so I guess the coil, dizzy and cap are OK, so maybe just the connections to the plugs and/or the plugs or something fuel related?

Any pointers/experience would be much appreciated.

This was supposed to be a cheap recommissioning as it also needs an exhaust and MOT. I really don't want to throw money at it. Shame really as its in really good nick, Money so far - Battery £45.00, Fuel filter £7.50, Fuel 25.00, Dizzy and Rotor £15.00 = £92.00. It soon mounds up.

Update, Just removed all the plugs and checked them for firing. They are all sparking, how well I am unsure but there is a blue spark present for all of them. All of the plugs except one from number 2 cylinder were wet and smelled of fuel. Number two is the one that is firing now and then, so was dry and sooty. So, fuel is present along with a spark, Cant think what I'm missing?

Last edited by Mooresy; 06-11-2019 at 09:53 PM..
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:41 PM   #2
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Ok for a start this is a modern car so stop guessing and get a plug in tool.

96 onwards VW cars were all OBD2 standard so you can get a little 4 quid bluetooth OBD dongle, torque pro for £2.49 odd on the app store and read the fault codes.

You'd be surprised at the amount of fault codes there could be in the system that dont show a check engine light.

I have VAGCOM and a proper USB cable which I use for proper diagnostic on most of my cars, but I even have the little adaptor things for my phone and use it for checking mates cars and it can tell you a world of things.

As I found often when you take the battery off there are a number of things that get reset that really need a laptop to redo, my T4 (VR6 Auto) was missing because of injectors that had failed, no warning lights, but the laptop picked up that 2 had failed, it was jumping when changing gear and I thought the box was knackered, so looking at the fault codes with my laptop and cable it said the throttle needed 'adaptation' it was a cable throttle type too, did that and the van was like a totally different van! silky smooth gear changes and everything.

So really dont go guessing, start with the plug in dongle job as that might save you hours of mucking about.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:22 PM   #3
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crank position sensor is a very common issue on these and will stop it from starting and give mis-fire symptoms.
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:53 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, I was on that track. Just thought Id be able to find it though a process of elimination, the old fashioned way, but yes, I'm getting no-where. I guess the plug in thing would tell me if it was the crank sensor or whatever. Ill give it a go and update as necessary.
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooresy View Post
Thanks guys, I was on that track. Just thought Id be able to find it though a process of elimination, the old fashioned way, but yes, I'm getting no-where. I guess the plug in thing would tell me if it was the crank sensor or whatever. Ill give it a go and update as necessary.
It won’t be the crankshaft sensor at fault. If it was it wouldn’t start at all. It probably needs things like the throttle valve to be re-adapted. Best as mentioned before get a diagnosis done by a local garage or buy yourself a scan tool.

Phil
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Old 12-11-2019, 09:14 AM   #6
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It won’t be the crankshaft sensor at fault. If it was it wouldn’t start at all. It probably needs things like the throttle valve to be re-adapted. Best as mentioned before get a diagnosis done by a local garage or buy yourself a scan tool.

Phil
it was on my brothers Arosa 1.0, only played up when the car was hot in that instance though.
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Old 12-11-2019, 08:23 PM   #7
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it was on my brothers Arosa 1.0, only played up when the car was hot in that instance though.
Crankshaft position sensors tend to fail when the engines hot & the engine will just cut out until cooled then will generally restart. The faulty crankshaft sensor will not give you a fault code. On later cars it will give correlation faults. I said that it won’t be the crankshaft sensor because his fault symptoms are different. There’s absolutely no point in just chucking parts and money at it based on guess work.

Phil
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Old 12-11-2019, 08:55 PM   #8
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Cheers,
Just bought a cheap scanner, Problem is it wont read the fault codes. Doesn't work on my Arosa. Any scanner recommendations?
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Old 15-11-2019, 10:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bugsy_Malone 666 View Post
Ok for a start this is a modern car so stop guessing and get a plug in tool.

So really dont go guessing, start with the plug in dongle job as that might save you hours of mucking about.
Right, I have borrowed a Snap-on Solus ultra, So if this doesnt read it then I dont know what will. Just had a play with it in the study and it lists 97 Arosa 1.0 MPI Engine code AER so all should be good. Just have to suss out how to use it...
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Old 17-11-2019, 11:32 AM   #10
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Cheers,
Just bought a cheap scanner, Problem is it wont read the fault codes. Doesn't work on my Arosa. Any scanner recommendations?
I have several scanners:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-Sc...sAAOSwTEpci5q9

mines a white version of that and it works with my 98 T4.

I have Torque Pro from the the app store which is a couple of quid. Been useful as I have been using it on both my 2011 jeep and my mates 2014 Qashqai to read/rest fault codes.

On the advice of the Jeep Scan software I have theres another unit:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vgate-iCa...8AAOSwg9RdwTTb

More expensive and I found for the most part it does the same thing, but does have one or two extra functions for the Jeep App.

Final tool - RossTech VAGcom cable - mega pricey for a proper one, but good bit of kit when you muck about with VAG alot.

The Snapon scanner should do it, most of the professional tools will give you a reading, often they have more power than those little bluetooth dongles too!

I need to take my Jeep down to my mechanic mate as he has a Bosch one and the Jeep keeps throwing a light which might be calibration of the exhaust sensor - something no app and bluetooth dongle can do!
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