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Old 22-04-2019, 11:30 AM   #11
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Bit of a bummer on the crack. Easily welded though.
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Old 22-04-2019, 07:58 PM   #12
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Yeh the welding is the easy part but welding that close to valve seat can create issues down the line.
If I was to weld it I would strip it a bare casting then grind out the crack heat the casting throughout and weld it up.
It would then probably require machining to allow the valve seats to be pressed in with the correct interference.

All stuff that can be done of course but not financially viable for this build or head with that value.


I'm sure I can find some, I know I have some Mexican 043s which are good but have the smaller valves so id prefer to use some 113s which I believe I have a good set

Thanks, Jay
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:57 PM   #13
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A little progress and finally I have some heads I can use
Found this pair of 311s which I sent off with some parts for vapour blasting, no cracks, spar plug threads all good and they cleaned up very nice

Also here is a pic of the crank all polished up
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:13 PM   #14
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Crankshaft
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:17 PM   #15
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Next job is to drill the crank for 8 dowel and then its ready to balance.

Then I can start to build up the bottom end although im still looking for some straight cut gears.

Thanks

Jay
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Old 14-05-2019, 12:08 PM   #16
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pretty much what |I did with the motor for pollys race car. totaly stock 1700 type 4 motor with a turbo and efi. it's now being rebuilt with a web cam and some stornger valve springs.
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Old 13-03-2020, 10:11 PM   #17
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So a lot has happened since starting this thread/build so it had been sidelined, I am however back on it now and will continue forwards

Some of the parts I had for the build have been used now including the crank, clutch and the 311 heads.

I have plenty of stock cranks so ill dig one out, as for heads I have found and blasted some 113 heads that will be great for this

Thanks Jay
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Old 13-03-2020, 10:26 PM   #18
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These are the heads I will use ...

The following pictures show the valve guides being cored to release pressure and then the castings heated up to allow the guide to be safely removed without damage to the heads.

The guides are pressed in towards the combustion chamber as there is often a build up of carbon around the guide which can cause it to bind on removal.

Thanks Jay
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Old 13-03-2020, 10:35 PM   #19
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The guides are removed and port shaping has begun starting with removing the exhaust port guide boss.

Also dug out some new valve guides I have, note the difference in length and the shoulder which prevents the guide pushing down through the head. I will most likely use the shortest style for both intake and exhaust.

Also marked out the inlet flange for port shape.

More soon

Thanks Jay
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Old 14-03-2020, 10:20 PM   #20
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Spent a few hours this afternoon on the heads and made some good progress. The inlet ports I have opened out slightly in a small oval shape towards the spark plug to give a "straighter" shot into the cylinder, I have not taken much material out of the intake as I'll have boost on my side forcing the air fuel charge in, the exhaust ports will need much more attention.

I made a template form a gasket for the first port and then used the same template for all four ports to keep them the same.

Here are some pics ..
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