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Machine 7, high quality air-cooled  restoration and performance parts
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:18 AM   #11
manx1641
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Have a go yourself fella, it's not that hard and tbh vw aircooled engines couldn't be more simple, we'll talk you through it.

my concern is why it's leaked all it's oil so quickly, i'd be warey of spending all that money only to be told it's no good, or worse still some one bodges it back together and prolongs the agony,

did you mention what car it was in the original post, i must have missed it.

the electric pump i pretty straight forward, but i'd tackle the engine first.
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Old 11-07-2010, 03:46 PM   #12
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are you near oxford?
failing that go on ebay and search for vw engine tuturial dvd, its 1.99 i think i bought it when i didn't know anything about the engines and its one bloke (chris rollason) stripping and rebuilding and engine completely, you can watch it while doing it, no problems for me, give it a go your self
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manx1641 View Post
Have a go yourself fella, it's not that hard and tbh vw aircooled engines couldn't be more simple, we'll talk you through it.

my concern is why it's leaked all it's oil so quickly, i'd be warey of spending all that money only to be told it's no good, or worse still some one bodges it back together and prolongs the agony,

did you mention what car it was in the original post, i must have missed it.

the electric pump i pretty straight forward, but i'd tackle the engine first.

was cruising along @80-85mph, foot was down, speed going wrong way
pulled over, saw ugly black stuff leaking out.
in a 75 1303
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:32 PM   #14
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what tools will i need to get the engine out?
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:42 PM   #15
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now that youve said that the 'cruising at 85' probably didnt help with overheating

you'll need a decent socket set and i think there are 4 15mm studs, though they might be 17mm i cant remember, a set of mole grips to clamp the fuel lines and you'll need to removed the altenator/dynamo wiring and the accelerator cable you'll need to put a trolley jack under the sump one the engine but dont over lift, just resting under it but supporting,
once the four studs from around the back of the engine- gearbox are out you can then pull the engine towards the back of the car and lower it down to the floor, i have a bay so not sure whether the 1303's will need raising then selves but its not a problem if it does just jack it up once the engine is one the floor.
you can use a skateboard or something similar to make moving the block easier but it can be dragged on the heat exchangers and exhaust
after that its strip down and rebuild time i found that dvd on ebay type in 'vw engine cd' its 1.99 and well worth the money for the knowledge and tips you get from it, (watch it twice before watching the thrid time while working through with it)

so
you'll

socket and rachet set
mole grips
trolley jack
axle stands (maybe)
friend

take your time and make sure everything is disconnected and out the way and watch the carb when lowering on the inside of the body
alex
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:55 PM   #16
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just ordered cd
now to find the others
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:52 PM   #17
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pretty sure its the same one i bought, (get ready for the cheesy intro music)
should be a bloke called chris rollason who introduces himself at the start.

ooh yeah and there's a video on www.justkampers.co.uk of them removing the engine, its informative as the cd you just bought doesn't include that you'll find it on their tech videos give that a watch before you drop the block out

good luck dude
alex
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:21 PM   #18
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Yeah i bought the cd too, very helpfull, you'll need some screwdrivers as well for things like jubillee clips and the tinware,

not sure what rpm an '03 would be doing at 85mph but prolonged high rpm 5k+ with a stock crankshaft may well have knocked the front bearing out causing the crank to move around which would damage the flywheel seal, if it was already leaking when you got the car, chances are it was on it's way out,

i bought an engine for my buggy which would weap a little oil even after changing the flywheel seal, when i eventually tore it down the front bearing had spun in the case, there are dowls that hold the bearing in the case so for it to spin it had to pull the dowel out first which causes a bit of damage, there was an obvious knocking whilst running which was a good sign it had gone,

but lets not get ahead of ourselves it may just be the seal, i recommend buying the more expensive german flywheel seals, as they do take a lot of effort to change and it's worth the extra couple of quid for peace of mind.

once you have the engine out you'll need to take the flywheel off to get to the seal, more on this when you get to that stage, when you have the flywheel off you'll be able to see if its the seal leaking and also check the plugs for the oil galleries and the case for signs of cracks,

when you pull out the old oil seal you can check for play in the crankshaft (end float) excessive end float is a sign of a worn crank or bearings and may need further investigation.

any questions just ask
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:34 AM   #19
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oh yeah to get the flywheel off you'll need either a torque converter tool which are expensive and most people (me included) will go with a hefty wrench and a big cheater bar (mine's a 2 meter steel pipe) when tightening the castle nut back on it needs to be 230-250ft/lb's to do this you need to calculate your weight around the moment of force for example, i weigh 62kg, converted into lb's is 136.4lb's saying that this is bang on 100 lb's off where i need to be one foot from the moment, i need to stand on the bar with my center of gravity approximatley 1' 10" away from the moment, once the bar stops moving from just my weight ( no pushing pressure or jumping,) the nut will be torqued to the correct amount
once this is done you can just put a bit of insulation or masking tape where you need to stand for future reference so you can just hop on your bar when you need to tighten again.
hope this helps
or you can just buy a big long torque wrench which goes to 250ft/lb's but that will just be too expensive for the home engine builder
hope thats all clear
alex

Last edited by allubo; 12-07-2010 at 12:37 AM..
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Old 20-07-2010, 05:18 AM   #20
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getting new engne from schneeky
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