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Old 04-04-2020, 05:38 PM   #11
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No, my experience is that series gearboxes fail behind Tdis because they were going to anyway, or because people drive like Sharon used to. They are also, very often, victims of neglect; Iíve seen most failures linked to low oil level/overheating (as well as the aforementioned ham-fistedness). Theyíve a known flaw of oil migration from the main box to the transfer case, particularly on Series 2s. Youíd be doing well to get 100K out of a series box, no matter what was in front of it TBH. Once I get the broken one out and Iíve time, Iíll pull it apart for an autopsy. I know for certain that itís a broken tooth, because it came out in an oil change. Itís most likely just bad luck. I replaced one of the third gear cogs when I rebuilt it back in 03, and I suspect that itís that one thatís let go as it wasnít a genuine part that I used. Iíve got more than enough bits here to rebuild it, and I might even do it when Iím done with the other stuff if I am allowed. Really though, Iíd like to rebuild it to ďSuffix DĒ spec, which was the final version of this gearbox; with induction hardened shafts and gears, and a stronger tooth profile. Thatís a few hundred quidsí worth of bits though, so itíll have to wait until times are less uncertain.

Doing away with the turbo and intercooler loses you about 40 bhp and, in my opinion, is no better than the standard diesel other than being easier to start. You need to leave the gearing in the axles standard if you go that route, so you barely see any real economy improvement over a 2.25 diesel either. With the turbo and intercooler you can use 3.54 diffs, which drop the revs/raise the road speed, and the engine has more than enough grunt to pull it. My overall average fuel economy is 30mpg, with 40+ available on a run if light footed (or if thereís loads of 50 limit roadworks). It will sit at 70 all day long doing about 35mpg, and if Iím really in a hurry will cruise at 80+. Terminal velocity is just under a ton.
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Old 04-04-2020, 05:51 PM   #12
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Braver then me
On 235/85 radials, and with all the suspension bushes, steering ball joints etc. up to scratch, you’d be very surprised. 109s are much, much more stable than 88s. Less pitching fore and aft, and way less twitchy. The radials make the biggest difference. You can genuinely drive it flat out with one hand on the wheel. Although I’ll qualify that with an admission that I’ve had lots of practice driving it, and someone less familiar would probably never push it as hard as I have been known to.

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I love the windscreen washer bottle.

The screenwash bottle isn’t going back in, but I’m sure it will find a home elsewhere. It’s actually been very practical being able to see the level at a glance from the driver’s seat, but passengers don’t like it in their way. Particularly the dog. So I’ll move it. Only because I don’t want to upset the dog.
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:35 PM   #13
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Back at it today.

I must say, this is probably the first time ever that Iíve had pretty much no deadline whatsoever to get work on the Landy done by. Itís quite nice being able to take my time and properly concentrate on what needs doing rather than rushing to get it finished in time for work the next day or whatever. Whatís particularly nice, having planned this out for some time, expecting my usual two to three day maximum window to get it all done in, is that although Iíve found a couple of unexpected areas thatíll need attention, Iíll have time to address them rather than having to pretend that I canít see them.

So. Where were we? Ah yes, floor and seat box out.

Having struggled to get the seat box out without taking the seats off it, I realised that I needed to take them off anyway to be able to fit the toolboxes properly. So I took them off. Iíll strip it of its sound deadening mat and give it a proper clean later on. I may even freshen it up with a little paint. Weíll see. You might be able to see in some of the pictures that Iíve had a fluid leak from the master cylinders in the past, and I want to repaint that area definitely whilst the pedals are all out. I donít have a vast amount of green paint to hand, so the seat box might have to wait.

Then it was time to steadily work around the gearbox disconnecting everything. Chock the wheels and remove both props. Front one needs new UJs (thatíll be where the slight vibration has appeared from recently) and the back oneís getting replaced. Then remove the centre section of exhaust. Discover a big split and a hole in it. Iíll weld it up for now, but itís going to be the spur necessary to get a stainless system made for it; something Iíve been meaning to do for a while.

Then remove the overdrive, disconnect the speedo cable, reversing light switch, breather pipe, rear mounts, handbrake linkage and undo the nuts around the bellhousing.

Then, put a block of wood under the sump, and use a trolley jack to support the engine, ready to split the gearbox off. Assemble the engine crane and stick it in through the passenger door.
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:45 PM   #14
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Land-Rover gearboxes are an awkward shape, and difficult to support/hold level and square as you lift them. Years ago I shortened a pair of brothers to the right length, which makes the job easy.

With the rear of the engine supported by the jack, you only have to wiggle the gearbox a little bit to free it, then slide it back and up, careful of the dash (and the heater). Then it just comes out the door.

End of play for today. Tomorrow Iíll make a start getting the engine out.
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:52 PM   #15
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Good going.

Glen, is there a reason you took the gearbox out before removing the engine?
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:58 PM   #16
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Great read Glen - well done.

Donít you feel a bit embarrassed doing all that work and spoiling the Landy, right under the nose of the ĎPig truckí
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Old 04-04-2020, 09:15 PM   #17
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Great read Glen - well done.

Donít you feel a bit embarrassed doing all that work and spoiling the Landy, right under the nose of the ĎPig truckí
it's OK, it knows where it stands in the queue
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Old 04-04-2020, 09:21 PM   #18
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Old 04-04-2020, 10:22 PM   #19
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Good going.

Glen, is there a reason you took the gearbox out before removing the engine?
Itís marginally easier to lift the engine out if you donít have to slide it forwards off the gearbox, and the gearbox is lighter and easier to manoeuvre off the engine than the other way around. If I was only changing the engine then it would be perfectly possible to leave the gearbox in place, but if youíre doing both then itís less stress to do the gearbox first. Itís the same putting them back; the engine will go in first, then the gearbox. Itís less of a struggle with a standard Land-Rover engine, but the Tdi has a big manifold assembly one side, and the injection pump the other, as well as the timing case and big front pulley, so itís a lot more of a ďlumpĒ to manhandle. If I were swapping all the ancillaries, Iíd have them off before I took the engine out, but my plan is to take it out complete, stick it on a trolley, and pallet wrap it up and put it into store where it will be my ďemergency spareĒ until I get a chance to strip and rebuild it properly.

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Great read Glen - well done.

Donít you feel a bit embarrassed doing all that work and spoiling the Landy, right under the nose of the ĎPig truckí
Yeah. I could sense it sulking.

However, getting this work done on the Land-Rover will allow me to reorganise my storage, free up some space and take away a job that has been hanging over me for ages. If I can get it done in the next ten days, then the next chunk of time off I am planning on some Austin action.
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:39 AM   #20
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Excellent work!
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