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Old 05-04-2020, 10:17 PM   #21
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Old 05-04-2020, 11:29 PM   #22
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Hello everyone. Welcome to the latest instalment.

Iím afraid that I donít have that many pictures today. Two reasons, the first being that access is tight around the engine, and thereís not much room to get clear pictures of whatís going on. Secondly, my hands were absolutely filthy most of the time, and I didnít want to touch my phone with them. Thirdly, I sort of got ďin the zoneĒ and kind of forgot.

Thatís three reasons isnít it?

So. Todayís job is to get the engine out. First job is simple, lift the bonnet right up and slide it off out of the way. You can leave it on, just disconnect the stay and open it up onto the screen, but if you do that then you really need to tie it up, and itís easier to just take it off.

This makes it so much easier to see what youíre doing. First job is to remove the air cleaner from the wing. This is originally from a Montego. At one point in the dim and distant past, they were cheap and easily available, and cartridges were under £1. Me and my mates used them on loads of stuff. Theyíre compact and have an inlet you can put a hose on, which made them very versatile. Sadly, cartridges are no longer cheap, or easily available, and itís always been a little undersized in this application so itíll not be going back on. Iím going to use a proper Land-Rover Tdi filter can, slightly modified, and fitted to an engine mounted bracket, which will be better for the engine and also free up enough space on the inner wing to mount a screenwash reservoir (which will please the dog).

Next is drain and remove the radiator/oil cooler, the intercooler, and then the frame that they sit in.

After that, I elected to remove the driverís side front wing. If I were just going to replace the engine I could have left it in place, but as Iím swapping pedal boxes then itís necessary for access to do that, and it makes getting at that side of the engine so much easier.

A tip. I always, whenever possible, put nuts and bolts back into the parts that theyíve come out of. It makes reassembly more straightforward and itís a lot quicker and easier than bagging/labelling stuff when itís only going to be in pieces a short time. Where this isnít possible, I use various old tubs/trays/buckets etc.
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Old 05-04-2020, 11:59 PM   #23
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With the wing off it was abundantly clear how much the engine had been breathing. Itís absolutely caked in black sooty grime. Itíd also been using water of late, but that appears to be down to the state of the radiator, which is well past its best and shows signs of leaking along one seam, as well as having lost nearly all of its fins.

With the wing off, I slowly worked my way around, starting at the rear on the driverís side, disconnecting everything. Fuel lines first. I made a short link to join the disconnected spill rail return to the lift pump inlet. I learned an expensive lesson with the injection pump on the other engine, not to let anything get into the fuel system or allow it to dry out. One of my planned tasks is to tidy up the fuel lines and fit a later type fuel filter, so I took the old filter off the bulkhead without disconnecting it, and thus leaving the system full of fresh fuel and sealed. Then itís a case of disconnecting electrical connections; fuel solenoid, heater plugs, temp and oil senders. Then the oil lines, throttle cable and engine mounting. After that, moving round the other side, disconnect the alternator, remove the header pipe, disconnect the starter motor and finally the last engine mount.

Then itís get the crane again and lift it up and out. When I did the original conversion I made a support bar that picks up on the lifting points, because my crane is only just big enough for the job and doesnít have enough reach to have any wasted height using chains or straps. It had gone a little rusty after 13 years of indifferent storage, so I cleaned it up and will give it a coat of paint tomorrow.

With it out I could remove the few things that Iíve not been able to duplicate: adaptors for the oil cooler lines, and the hose outlet for the heater.

Tomorrow Iíll turn my attentions to the clutch and brake parts that are coming off.
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:51 PM   #24
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Hokay. Todayís update.

Not quite so much physical progress today, but a good day nonetheless.

First off, have a gratuitous picture of a knackered radiator. I have a replacement. I may investigate replacing it with a performance item if all else pans out ok.

Weíre still dismantling though, so letís not get ahead of ourselves; moving on.

Iíve been running a standard single-circuit braking system all the while Iíve had the vehicle. Itís fine, and works without any issues, although it does require a hefty shove and in extremis will lock the rear wheels if lightly laden. Maybe ten years ago I fitted a remote servo to lighten the pedal effort a bit, but the problem with remote servos is that they require line pressure to start working, so arenít linear in their operation like direct ones are. They tend to feel ineffective when braking gently and Iíve never been massively happy with mine. I didnít help myself when I mounted mine right up under the driverís wing in a totally inaccessible place. I had an issue a few times when it held the brakes on, needing a good stamp on the pedal to free it off. Eventually I just disconnected the vacuum hose and ignored it. Part of my plans is to replace it, the brake pedalbox and the master cylinder with a direct servo and dual circuit cylinder from a Series 3. So it all has to come off.

Removing it revealed why it might have been playing up. Good news really, as I may end up using it to lighten the clutch pedal effort on the Austin. Not decided yet, but having it in the shed is useful. I shall investigate it internally at a later date.

I also removed the existing brake and clutch pedalboxes, the reservoirs and associated pipework.

This revealed a similar amount of damaged paintwork as was evident inside. Odd, because I canít remember having or dealing with a leak, but it really canít be anything else thatís caused it.
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Old 06-04-2020, 09:06 PM   #25
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Updating the pedal boxes means being able to do away with these two massive springs. Even with the mechanical advantage of the length of the pedals, they add 10lbs to the force needed to apply the clutch or the brakes. The later brake pedalbox uses two lighter springs, arranged in such a way that they still return the pedal, but take much less force to hold down. As I mentioned before, the later clutch setup actually helps hold it down once the initial part of the stroke is taken up.

With all that lot cleared away it was time to break out the degreaser and the pressure washer and get rid of the loose paint and all the filth.

Well. Waddayaknow. Thereís actually some bits under all that gunge.

More in a bit, got to go watch Homeland.
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:48 PM   #26
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Right.

The next step was to look at the physical fitment of the replacement brake pedal. Although the six mounting bolts are in exactly the same place, and so is the bit you put your foot on when you want to stop, everything else is significantly different. The main bit weíre worrying about being that the hole in the bulkhead needs to be enlarged. The side by side of the old vs new will show what I mean. Cutting this hole out is one of the reasons why I have held off doing the swap for so long; itís not quite as bad as cutting the radio slot out on a Beetle, but itís not an easy thing to undo once done. However, I recently drove a friendís Landy with the later brake setup, and was surprised how much less pedal effort it needed than mine, and how much more relaxed that made it in stop/start traffic. Anyway, I used the gasket to outline where to cut, then carefully trimmed it out. A quick tickle with a file got rid of the sharp edges.
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Old 06-04-2020, 11:00 PM   #27
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With that done, and the pressure wash having removed the loose/flaky paint, I had a quick tidy up and paint. Now, Iíd love to do a proper paint job, but thatís beyond the scope of the current works, and pretty much all of the bits are normally covered and invisible, certainly inaccessible. So the paint job is everything youíd expect from something done in a hurry, outside, usually the dog ends of four different types of Land-Rover bronze green aerosol, on a windy day.

Itíll do.
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Old 06-04-2020, 11:17 PM   #28
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I also painted up a pair of new floor panels. Iíd previously done the underneath in stonechip, so the tops got a coat of green. Not even remotely the right shade, but again, itíll do as theyíre always covered up.

The next thing was to bring the toolboxes out that Iíd done the insides of last week, paint their undersides, and give them a coat of stonechip. Being galvanised, theyíd probably be alright left bare, but I prefer to paint them. Once theyíre all in place theyíll probably get a coat of underbody wax too.

Then I had a look at the radiator/intercooler mounting frame. Itís a standard Defender/Discovery one, modified to fit into a Series, but still hold a standard radiator and intercooler. When I made it I was quite pressed for time, so rather than get a proper paint job it just had a quick tickle over with the knotted wheel in the angry grinder, and a rough slosh over with some black paint. This time, Iíd half intended to strip it and paint it properly, but I have the niggling notion to maybe uprate the intercooler and radiator, and that might mean modifying the mounting frame; so it got another wire wheeling and a first coat of primer ready for some black tomorrow.

I also painted my lifting beam finally.
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Old 07-04-2020, 03:10 AM   #29
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Well done you crammed a lot into one day
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Old 07-04-2020, 07:46 AM   #30
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Brilliant, I love this thread - mostly because of its very practical, no nonsense approach.
Entirely suited, and totally in step with the Land Rover ethos.

Those pedal return strings made me chuckle - driving it must save Gym fees.
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