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Old 26-12-2012, 10:49 PM   #1
Jeester
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Default 1972 VW 1300 D/L Beetle - Project

So I've known for about a year or more that I wanted to buy a beetle and spent many many hours trawling this website and eBay looking for the perfect project for the missus 21st Birthday.

In the end I found this one:


Originally I posted a bid for 500 but someone else won it with 600 but never collected. But the buy who beat me never came and collected so the owners gave me a second chance offer and I took it for 500.
It had previously broken down (2007) I believe, he told me smoke started to come out of the exhaust so they put it up and as happens a lot, forgot about it and the engine seized and rust took over. In an attempt to get it back on the road they did some welding to it but there is still much to do.

It was based down in Hereford, so I drove down to take a look, it was a nice and for 500, with the engine (1600 twin carb dual port) it had (even if it was seized), very much worth it. So I gave them the money, signed the log book and collected the keys.
That night I arranged for a car trailer for the local hire company and as I was working, the rents very kindly offered to pick it up for me.

And here it is:


At this point I tried to get the engine to going as I thought it, in my neivity, might just be a starter motor problem as I couldn't hear it wizzing round. But when I eventually got it wizzing and heard the pop of it pushing in to the fly wheel it still didn't turn over.

From here I couldn't do anything else. I ordered a seal so that the rear left window could be closed up for winter to stop corrosion but this didn't arrive in time for me to go back to uni so I had to leave it with a bin bag and some duct tape.

I came back around mid december but havn't been able to do anything until christmas eve where I sealed the window with a seal I got from a kind gentleman from here. I got it down off the field it was stored in and put it back end in the garage:


I then set to work, first disconnecting and labeling all the wires taken out.
Following this I emptied the oil and subsequently took out the manifolds which had the carbs attached.
This took a lot longer than I thought (well, I originally didn't think I had to take them off as in none of my Haynes manuals it told me to but they are all single carb and not twin) as I started off by trying to take off the tin wear around the engine, I, in my ignorance failed to take out the spark leads which would have given me access to the manifold nuts holding them in. Anyway. with the nuts out I disconnected the fuel lines and got them out, with the heater pipes as well:




I then disconnected the fuel line and took off the boot lid as it was getting in the way.
Afterwhich I began unscrewing the bolts holding it in (originally trying to undo the wrong bolt! - could have been disastrous).
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Old 26-12-2012, 10:49 PM   #2
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And now the engine starts to go! Get in.


Nearly there:


And it's out!

Chucked on to the work bench:

My dad's wire wheels from his MGB roadster in the background. Veeery Nice. I like.

So I chucked the boot lid back on and wheeled it out on to the drive.
Tomorrow I will be starting the strip down of the engine.

I know I need to buy new seals and gaskets etc. but what else do I need to buy for an engine rebuild? I hope I don't have to do a top end rebuild or anything like that.
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Old 27-12-2012, 06:34 PM   #3
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Good luck with your rebuild, take lots of photos they are always helpful when carrying out a rebuild.
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Old 27-12-2012, 11:04 PM   #4
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take the plugs out pour some diesel down leave for a few days then try turning crank pulley with torque wrench and socket to fit nut

i cured a old austin that had sat for 25 years that way

then remove heads and barrels you may get away with new rings and a clean up on heads

you got a bargain there twin carb 1600
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Old 28-12-2012, 02:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kustomkriss View Post
take the plugs out pour some diesel down leave for a few days then try turning crank pulley with torque wrench and socket to fit nut

i cured a old austin that had sat for 25 years that way

then remove heads and barrels you may get away with new rings and a clean up on heads

you got a bargain there twin carb 1600
Thanks for that. I will try that tomorrow. Why diesel and not petrol out of interest?
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Old 28-12-2012, 02:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sadman View Post
Good luck with your rebuild, take lots of photos they are always helpful when carrying out a rebuild.
Cheers man, Really looking forward to it.
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Old 28-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #7
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Last edited by Jeester; 28-12-2012 at 05:17 PM..
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Old 28-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #8
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I have also posted this here:
Crankcase Corrosion - Is this fucked?
So basically, after taking my engine out the other day I removed all the stuff on top and then came to inspect the exterior of the crankcase and I found these where the case mounts to the gearbox.
I apologise for the terrible condition of the photos.
My camera is crap.





Basically there is a load of white stuff in about two inch segments around the top half. And it is corroded back about 1-2 mm.

Can I reinforce it in anyway? Will it be weakened a lot? Will it spread and can I stop it from spreading?
It is a 1600 twin carb engine so will the stress it will be under when driving later cause the case to snap?
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:05 AM   #9
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Bloody hell, thought it had been two years, not three!

So now things have heated up. Parts are on order and body is off. Will be replacing floor pans, bottom of NS A pillar, heater channels, door seals, window seals, copper pipes, any perished rubber pipes and patching other areas.




Had a couple issues, namely the doors! This picture below was one of the most satisfying things ever!



Other issues included the fact I didn't realise I had something called 'Z Bar' suspension which no one mentioned had to be unbolted. So when I came to lift it off it was a little bit of a surprise.

Now it is this position waiting for me to take the front end apart to derust, paint, check over and put back together.

I do have one questions if anyone is reading this, there is a small bit of play in the steering box, i.e. I can turn the steering rod a couple of mill either side without it providing any resistance and without it moving anything. It's only minuscule and won't make much difference however is there a quick and easy fix? Do I need to open it up and strip it?

Cheers
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:39 PM   #10
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Good to see project back on!

There is some adjustment in steering box, but make sure it is not leaking oil first.

There is a nut on top of the box, which you need to loosen, then slowly turn in the bolt with a slot in. Bit hard to do with body off. I can post picture, as replaced mine last weekend.
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