Hooray, things are moving again
Last weekend I popped over to the parents and spend a couple of hours draining all fluids from the beetle in prep for removing everything.
I want to stick to the engine rebuild in this thread but I will mention that the gearbox is also being removed and needs repair.
From the pictures you can see the gearbox oil literally pissing out of the boots despite all efforts to stop it.
It's my fault for using some expensive thin oil in an attempt to reduce the 4th gear whine.
Anyway, back to the engine rebuild.
No chance of an aircooled 4 bolts and you're done here
Plenty of extra pipes to remove, oil cooler, water, fuel but having no fan housing makes removing the bolts a breeze.
Engine out and ready for parts stripping.
I was originally only after the heads and all the bolt on bits but decided to pull the liners as well as these are low mileage.
The cordless impact gun made light work of removing the head bolts.
Top tip if your planning on replacing the head gaskets on your t25.
If you are unlucky and the liners are stuck to the heads you will have to remove the pistons to get the rings back in.
Removing the pistons for a wbx engine is a nightmare as you have to 'pull' the wrist pins out through the water jacket holes.
9 times out of 10 the bastards are stuck solid and rigging some kind of puller with long studs is your only option.
A quicker way is to remove the liner leaving the piston in place and then with a 14mm socket, universal joint, extension and breaker bar undo the conrod bolts.
You can just squeeze through past the piston and reach the nuts!
I used a magnetic pickup to unscrew the last few threads to prevent them from falling inside the case.
Fish out the conrod top shell and ensure the bearing shells are kept in the correct order.
Once the piston/conrod is out simply remove the wrist pin in a vice, put the conrod back and re-torque.
It's a good opportunity to check the big end shells whilst you're there and it may be wise to invest in a new set of bolts/nuts.
Having removed all the pistons and conrod's I confirmed the camshaft as the problem.
It's difficult to see but the whole lobe is galled and the edge is oddly shaped.
The hydro lifters don't sit square to the cam but are offset to induce rotation much like head valves and rockers to reduce wear.
Pulled the lifter for this lobe and the damage is clear.
Having got all I wanted this engine is consigned to the shed storage box possibly never to re-appear.
Another topic that frequently comes up with water cooled conversions is the potential damage caused by galvanic corrosion.
To summarize, it's a process where two dissimilar metals connected by a fluid and also electrically (common earth or touching) create a process similar to a battery.
The upshot is that one metal corrodes (aluminum in this case) as the electrochemical process takes place.
There is much debate about whether you can use copper, or stainless safely and if the right coolant can stop the process.
Here are my results done over 6 years of use.
I use stainless pipe work, not copper.
The pipes are not fully insulated from the car's bodywork.
The engine heads were new when fitted.
VW G12 coolant has always been used in 50% concentration mixed with distilled water and is changed every 3 years.
Here are the notorious head surface where the rubber gasket is fitted and fails.
Both heads are spotless with the only corrosion being where the head is exposed to the elements.
Anyway, got to clean everything up and decide what to do with the heads.
For sure there will be a 3 angle valve job and at least one new valve guide, plus a few valve stems have been damaged due to the cam problems.
I also want to spend a bit more time doing port work as there is hp to be gained in this area for sure.
Plenty still to do.