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Old 01-06-2015, 03:48 PM   #41
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Have you tried brake cleaner or engine degreaser to clean the block. Or is that too harsh on the bath?
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Have you tried brake cleaner or engine degreaser to clean the block. Or is that too harsh on the bath?
Yep, too risky for the bath as I rent this place.
The case is now as clean as I can practically get it and I'm waiting on some Curil sealant for the case half's as the 'full' gasket kit does not have any
I also sorted out the hardware for the build with mostly new nuts but somehow I've managed to misplace a couple of the long bolts that fit on the case bottom.
If I can't find them I will rob them off the original engine.
Looks like next weekend for the short block at this rate
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Old 15-06-2015, 02:53 PM   #43
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Big weekend, the engine is together.

The cam lube arrived.



Closing up the case is pretty simple but I wanted to also ensure no oil leaks in the future if possible.
Additional to using the curil on the case halves I also used it on the bottom of all the washers.
I also used new nyloc nuts where possible as this should prevent any oil seeping down the threads.

The other tip is to use a magnetic pickup tool to start any nuts that could potentially fall into the case.


In my previous builds I fit the flywheel oil seal and front seal when the case is split and this seems to work and is a lot simpler than trying to press it in later.

Short block complete.
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Old 16-04-2016, 07:07 PM   #44
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Thread from the dead

Things went a bit sideways last year after putting the engine together.
After a swipe check on the lifter it turns out my cam/lifter choice was not compatible so everything was stripped apart.

Had I run this engine the cam would have eaten itself!
This video shows the cam riding on the lifter edge.

After discussions with JC at stateside it was decided to fit bronze bushes to the case and run T1 style lifters.

This should resolve all the issues and also allow some more flexibility on lifter choice.
In the end I went all in and bought a set of lightweight Thorsten's, 59 grams and made of tool steel.

These and the case where shipped off for machining and so the problems really started.
After some seriously delays I got an email telling me that a bush had been pressed in and a check showed the lifter was loose in the bore.
We are talking out of spec loose based on new components.
After checking an aluminum type bush and seeing the same problem it appears to be a combination of issues:
Although all in 'spec' the lifter was at it's smallest diameter and the bush was at it's largest diameter.
This with suspected worn bores in the case resulting in a loss of 'crush' on the bush when pressed in.

More months rolled on and finally the plan now is to fit 912 style bushes as they have a much smaller i/d suitable for 912 lifters.
Once pressed in they can be drilled and honed to match my lifters.

That aside, I have been 'tinkering' with other parts of the build.
One thing I originally did not do was to remove the hard edges off the camshaft.

This is important for two reasons, the edges can promote wear on the lifters and it's common for it to flake off and contaminate the oil.
Bear in mind the camshaft lobes are hardened so the flakes could score the pump on there way to the filter.
Using some electrical tape as protection a hand file was used to round the edges.

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Old 16-04-2016, 07:55 PM   #45
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Having much time on my hands I turned my attention to port work again, specifically the inlet manifolds.
Although the previous clean up process was fine I figure why not eak every last drop of HP I can.
Using a method I found online I took a metal bar, drilled a slot in one end and then used sanding paper rolled up.

This allows you to smooth out the casting marks and keep the port round. Add more sanding paper for the wider areas and reduce as you reach the narrow points.
One issue with WBX engines is the head ports are rectangular so it took some time to smooth out the transition.
All told it took more than 20 hours to get to the point where I was happy.


The other issue with these manifolds is that the head mounting holes are too large meaning the whole thing moves around on the head studs.
This is a serious problem if you are fine tuning the port work ensuring a precision transition from the manifold, through the gasket and into the head.
IIRC aircooled heads have a dowel pin used for centering but VW dropped this with the wbx engine and used sleeved manifold bolts to ensure a correct fit.

I considered retro fitting a dowel pin but gave up when I realised the work involved.
To solve this problem I bought some suitable sized bronze bushes usually used as bearings.
I drilled out the existing holes on the manifolds in mm increments and pressed them in.
I used a washer the same thickness as the gasket to leave them a little proud to also seat the gasket in the correct position.



When torqued up to the head they will press back into the manifold as the gasket gets crushed.

After a little poor mans reaming they where a tight fit on the head.


Here is the matched gasket positioned with bushes to confirm a good transition.

Now I could confirm the required work still needed on the manifolds.


The finished product, but note how little meat there is to seal, which is a cause for concern.

I may have to get them welded if they suffer from air leaks but for now I can finally put them aside.

I am also revisiting the wbx oil system whilst the case is apart and also at the machine shop.
Now that I am going to be using T1 style lifters I will be losing the hydro lifters wide oiling groove and subsequently oil flow will be greatly reduced.
This is a problem that all performance T1 engine suffer from and why Bob Hoover's oiling mods are so important.
That said, my issue is ensuring good oil flow through the drive train at high revs and not providing oil for cooling purposes.
Regardless, the plan is to drill a new oil feed to the lifters and also machine slots into the lifter bushes allowing uninterrupted oil flow.
This I feel is sensible as a precaution with the modifications being made.
I've probably posted this link already but worth a read if you want to learn more.
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.co.uk.../hvx-mods.html

Most other work has been prepping the beetle for use again having sat for so long.
This weekend I will be fitting an uprated front anti roll bar and also a camber compensator at the rear in an attempt to reduce the tail happy rear end

When the case eventually re-appears I will update again, but it won't been soon....
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Old 13-06-2016, 10:36 PM   #46
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Update time

I decided not to modify the oiling system other than open out the oil feed holes to the lifters. This should compensate for the narrow oil grooves.
Just waiting on the work being done and build #2 can commence.

Whilst I wait I have been studying up on conrod bolts, specifically stretch bolts.
As this engine will have the capacity to rev over 6k it will for sure, so getting the correct stretch on the bolts will be crucial.
The bolts have a stretch window of operation to keep the required clamping force.
Too little initial stretch causes clamping loss as the revs increase causing oil pressure loss and failure.
Too much initial stretch and the bolts will extend past the elastic limit at high revs once again leading to failure.
Although Scat states a specific torque with special lube and through a number of cycles this will never be as accurate as a stretch gauge.
Buying an ARP gauge @ 160 for this one job was not sensible so I ordered a Jegs gauge direct from the states.
Like most cheaper gauges it lacks a stronger spring for better clamping but did the job.

Tools for the job: Torque wrench, breaker bar, stretch gauge and a slide gauge.


First need to check the bolt length to get the correct torque.
http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/rod-hbeam.pdf
1.6" Under the head, so for 3/8th should be between 60-70 lb ft range.


Not wishing to over torque started at 50 and worked up.
The stretch gauge was zeroed out for each bolt.

The special Scat lube was used on the threads and under the head as directed.

Trying to hold the gauge steady and take a picture was fun but each bolt was tweaked to exactly .006" sitting nicely in the .0058” - .0062” spec.
There were several bolts with only .0055" at Scat's recommended 50 lb ft, so well worth doing this job IMO.
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Old 25-07-2016, 11:23 PM   #47
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Hi Iain, have you got any updates?
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:27 PM   #48
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No updates, still waiting on the engine case.
I've still got some bodywork to do including replacing the front valance.
TBH lost a great deal of interest due to the delays and with summer already here
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:49 AM   #49
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That's a shame.
Perhaps something to continue with in the winter?
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:10 PM   #50
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Good news, the case work has been completed
Once it's back I can get cracking again...
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