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‘74 beetle resto

3733 Views 39 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Bugsntinas
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After trying to find some motivation to start work on the beetle I finally made an effort today. I think it’s going to be a long one as I suffer with my back and find it hard to get motivated. Took me ages to get the passenger door off as the bottom hinge had totally collapsed inside the pilllar and the top 2 had seized. I braced the pillars together but I’m going against the norm here and am going to try and do the floor pans and heater channels without separating the body (one side at a time of course) just incase I loose interest. The a pillar is very grim and what makes it worse is I think they used a full repair panel in the past.
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So going off those pics, I'm guessing the rest of the bug is in need of major work aswell.
My '74 was as bad as that when I started, be prepared for a long resto.
The nearside pillar looks like the previous restorer used the short outer skin only, so you can replace that with the taller one which has the internal strengthening panel for the hinge plate.
In the past I've done Heater channel and floorpan with the body still on the chassis, only cut out one panel at a time (I did heater channel first, so I still had the old floorpan to align the Heater channel to it).
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So going off those pics, I'm guessing the rest of the bug is in need of major work aswell.
it’s looking that way. It looks like it’s been “restored “ in the pastbut not very good even by my standards :).
My '74 was as bad as that when I started, be prepared for a long resto.
The nearside pillar looks like the previous restorer used the short outer skin only, so you can replace that with the taller one which has the internal strengthening panel for the hinge plate.
In the past I've done Heater channel and floorpan with the body still on the chassis, only cut out one panel at a time (I did heater channel first, so I still had the old floorpan to align the Heater channel to it).
Not sure what they did until I strip the paint and filler off as the first pic is about 6inches or more up from the channel and there’s a ridge and loads of filler. The channel looks like it’s only the floor holding it in.
To be honest. Its not worth doing. The money you'll spend to fix it will be more than its worth. Plus you'll have hundreds of hours of work to put into it as well
To be honest. Its not worth doing. The money you'll spend to fix it will be more than its worth. Plus you'll have hundreds of hours of work to put into it as well
That’s why it was bought as a project. I have no time line which is good as I have a camper which needs tons of work, a ford cargo horsebox the same and a mk5 cortina the same. I think she’ll be worth the effort in the end as I’m not doing it to make money plus ver here a decent one can be 4k plus of not more.
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Also how much of the bottom of the b pillar should be left after the channel has been removed? As you can see it had previous work so not sure. The light blue is the original paint

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Looks like someone has already removed too much of that. There should be a 'flap' that wraps down the heater channel. I cut out chunks of the channel and gently nibbled my way upwards until I'd got rid of the top skin, then replaced the rusty bits of the original B pillar to keep it the same shape.

Not sure if these help or not

Wood Road surface Asphalt Gas Bumper


^I think that is how far 'up' I cut the pillar.

Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior Glass


^And that's the extent of what I had to cut and replace.

When someone has already had a go at it before you I think all you can do is offer up the new channel, match the profile of the pillar to the top of the channel and then make sure the door opening measurements are right.
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Looks like someone has already removed too much of that. There should be a 'flap' that wraps down the heater channel. I cut out chunks of the channel and gently nibbled my way upwards until I'd got rid of the top skin, then replaced the rusty bits of the original B pillar to keep it the same shape.

Not sure if these help or not

View attachment 305135

^I think that is how far 'up' I cut the pillar.

View attachment 305134

^And that's the extent of what I had to cut and replace.

When someone has already had a go at it before you I think all you can do is offer up the new channel, match the profile of the pillar to the top of the channel and then make sure the door opening measurements are right.
thanks for the reply. Most of the usual area have been butchered sorry repaired so gonna be fun all round. I’ll do as ya suggest and remove rest f the old one and offer up the new one and go from there.
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Wasn’t really in the mood today but went out this evening to have a poke about.
I cut away the “dash” part of the pillar to get to the next layer. Turns out the piece with the holes is only goes back an inch or 2 as it appears to be part of the pillar skin.
Lucky the metal underneath that is only pitted,thought there was a pin prick hole but turns out not, so just need to fabricate the middle bit :)
Found rust holes in the pillar and all down the joint so will have to fabricate the fold over strip

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That’s why it was bought as a project. I have no time line which is good as I have a camper which needs tons of work, a ford cargo horsebox the same and a mk5 cortina the same. I think she’ll be worth the effort in the end as I’m not doing it to make money plus ver here a decent one can be 4k plus of not more.
It's all fairly standard for a beetle, nothings particularly scary. Just take your time and ask lots of q's. Heater channels with the body on is the only 100% guaranteed way the new channels will line up with the holes in the floors. You can always lift it off after to finish a few bits. if you want to keep the budget down, look out for unused panels going cheap on here/fb/shows. Autocraft engineering do the best a post bottoms.
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It's all fairly standard for a beetle, nothings particularly scary. Just take your time and ask lots of q's. Heater channels with the body on is the only 100% guaranteed way the new channels will line up with the holes in the floors. You can always lift it off after to finish a few bits. if you want to keep the budget down, look out for unused panels going cheap on here/fb/shows. Autocraft engineering do the best a post bottoms.
I’m going to do one side at a time with body on for 5he channels as it seems the best way although not the easiest(for me). I’m in Ireland so hard to buy panel from uk as the vat and duty Makes them so expensive. I recently bought an a pillar panel for 45 which was the dearest and seems good quality.
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This post is going to be pic heavy sorry.
Need peoples opinion on the front quarter panel and what to do. I peel back the pillar seam and the panel is well rotted with a few places having no lip at all.
The inner wing has been replaced before but has gone rusty where I’ll need to weld n a new one.
behind/around the wing mounting holes about 3 up it has had plates put in behind and filled
The front has had the large roil panel fitted an€ again going rusty along the edge and the lower by the spare wheel well is rotted.
My dilemma is do I try repairing the bad areas as best I can so I can replace with new panels etc or do I cut my losses and buy a whole new quarter panel?

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Well I think I’ve hit my first problem area. Put the body back down and the heater tube doesn’t seem to line up with the inside i of the a pillar.
Next big problem is something has happened/been done to the pillar. There appears to be a repair about 2 niches above where the repair panel will go. As by the pics it goes inwards plus the top piece seems to be wider. Going to wait until I buy the quarter panel to get a look at the inside

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I feel your pain, I’m working threw previous bodge repairs on mine.
and some aftermarket panels are not very good.
looks like the inner heater pipe in that channel is well out.
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I feel your pain, I’m working threw previous bodge repairs on mine.
and some aftermarket panels are not very good.
looks like the inner heater pipe in that channel is well out.
It does look out. I might just cut thru it from the inner wing side and re weld it to move it more upright.
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Only spent a couple of hours on her today,and not a lot to show, but found out the extent of the bodges.
Decided to cut out most of the crap from the pillar leaving a bigggg gap but at least the repair panel fit s lol. You can see what they left of the reinforcing panel but didn’t weld their “new” piece to it. If left a little bit on as a guide but even that’s not straight.
I’m going on the assumption that the flat surface where the door check strap is is flat so will work off that. I’m going to buy another a pillar panel and cut that to fill the gap and then reinforce the joins.
Oh and found the replacement inner wheel arch they used to “repair” the old was just welded in over the old one angry.
Can someone confirm the gap from the bottom of the inner wheel panel to the heater channel please. Tia

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What’s the best way to attack the area around the rear window. I’ve removed the foam from that area but the rust is worse underneath.

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