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Discussion Starter · #701 ·
I've just driven it back in the garage. I noticed loads of oil pouring out. When I looked under the engine I couldn't see where it was coming from. Weird.

It was proper pouring out!

And then I saw.....


When I had the diesel engine in, I'd used an oil cooler as a fuel cooler on the return back to the tank. I'd mounted it up under the boot floor. I had disconnected it but left it there. I'd actually forgotten about it.
As I drove up the drive at an angle it was pouring the remaining diesel out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #703 ·
Oh the twists and turns of life.....

I've had a particularly rubbish time of late, personally speaking ( business is going from strength to strength fortunately). I won't bore you all with details cos, well you know, this is a vw site after all!
The upshot is that I need some new transport. So this car needs to be back on the road! Yay!
I don't have the time to rebuild the engine, so I bought an "ebay gamble" engine. Its a F code 1300, so correct for the car. It was advertised as a runner. So I went to look at it. It was dusty, not oily, very slight end float (about right I recon) and seamed ok.
Hard to tell just by looking though. I took the plunge and bought it.
I swapped out the Chinese carb and 009 for the correct bits I had bought for the old engine.
The preheater pipe on the manifold was clogged so I drilled a hole at each bend and drilled along the inside of the pipe. This cleared the blockage so I welded the holes up, job done.

I replaced the blowing exhaust for the one off the old engine, at the same time I noticed the heat exchangers are genuine VW!

Last night I fitted it and..........it ran! Not just that, no nasty noises or smoke! Hurrah!

Just goes to show that when bad luck drenches you there is often a rainbow somewhere!

Expect more updates .......
 

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Discussion Starter · #704 ·
I did a compression test and leak down test on the newly bought engine( cylinder at tdc, filled with compressed air and the air loss measured. If you hear it hissing out the exhaust its the exhaust valve, from the carb means inlet valve and from the oil filler means rings. ). The results were barely passable. So I have decided on a topend refresh. New rings, cylinder hone, lap the valves.
Other news the car is now at my workshop and the sheet steel has been delivered.
Wheel Tire Plant Land vehicle Car

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle


I will be making a new drivers side from the flat sheet. There is some rust, but not too bad. No, the reason I'm making new is that I originally repaired it back in 1991 when I was just learning. My workmanship is, er, not really up to standard! If I'm using the car to get me to work every day it needs better quality metalwork, bearing in mind what I do for a living!
 

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Discussion Starter · #705 ·
I'm also having a very heated debate with myself over the colour.
The car originally was Sea Sand, a sort of dreary beige. I like the black but on the roads today you only see cars painted black, silver or white. Very monochrome! So if I'm going for a colour why not the original?
In 1966 there were a few colours to choose from for your beetle. I like Ruby red and the pale blue (I forget the name) but they came with cream seats. With the state of me at the end of a working day, cream seats would be ruined very quickly!
If I paint it Sea Sand the correct colour for the seats is black. Much more practical.

Hmmmm decisions decisions
 

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Discussion Starter · #707 ·
The top end refresh of the engine is done.
Curiously there were 1mm spacers between the heads and the barrels. Now, to my mind, there are only two reasons why they would be there. Firstly if the heads had been machined on for some reason. Or to lower the compression ratio.
When I bought the engine it had previously been used in a splitscreen camper, so maybe it had be done to reduce compression ratio to keep temperatures down.
The only way to find out was science!
I borrowed the kit to measure the cc of the cylinder head. If the heads had been flycut back, this would show it.
Automotive tire Wood Wall Gas Asphalt


The deck height was also checked.
After some maths ( thanks to an old "keeping your vw alive" magazine for the formula) it came out at 7.4:1. Bang on stock.
So the heads haven't been worked on, so I binned the spacers. I did work out what the cr would have been with the spacer, 6.8:1 No thanks!
I lapped the valves in, fitted new rings, honed the barrels and reassembled the engine. Tappets needed redoing as they were out now that the heads are closer to each other with the spacers removed.

I did have a concern about the oil cooler. There was a lot of silicone around it. I removed this and fitted new seals.
I turned the engine over till the oil light went out, fitted the plugs and fired her up! Quick check for leaks aaaaaannnd omg turned it off quick. The oil cooler had oil pouring out!.
I ran out of time, so tomorrow I'll fit a spare cooler I have and try again. To be honest, I should have known better than to re use a cooler covered with sealant. But, hey ho that's how it goes sometimes!
The engine did sound sweet though....
 

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Discussion Starter · #708 ·
All sorted. Swapped the oil cooler over and now leak free. I even took it for a short spin round the industrial estate I'm on (actually an old garden centre.) Then it ran out of fuel and, well, getting some more may be an issue at the moment, so I'll call the engine sorted and move on.
 

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Well I say you are a key worker doing essential journeys!

Get that man to the front of the queue!

:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #711 ·
On to the bodywork.
I'm so tempted to just weld in the replacement rear bulkhead and start driving my beloved 66. But I feel I owe it a proper restoration. Its not that it's massively rusty, sure there is some rust, but I need to redo most of the previous repairs.
I first welded this back in 1991, when next doors cat had more clue than I did!
I'm starting at the drivers side front quarter.

Talk a look at the semless bottom repair!
.....
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Tire Grass


I first made a paper template which was transfered to steel. Then it was on to the English wheel to give it some shape.
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Bumper

That top wheel is my "steel wheel" I have a polished wheel for aluminium work.
I use a spirt level to check the progress so I can judge the correct shape. The curve of this panel is not constant, but gets tighter towards the top.
Plant Wood Wood stain Hardwood Terrestrial plant


I compared the shape with the door skin I made a few years ago. It needs to "flow" into the door.
Once I had the right shape I put a fold on the one edge where it meets the door. This causes the panel to flatten, so I crush the edge with a hammer and block
Wood Road surface Floor Brick Flooring

This returns the panel to the right shape.
I marked out and folded the top edge where it will meet the bonnet. This edge needed a slight shrink to pull it round.
So that's as far as I got this afternoon. Once I have my new front wing I can mark out where the curving edge will be.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Plant


Not too shabby for under 2 hours work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #715 ·
The new front wing turned up. I did think about making my own, but I decided it would take too long.
With the wing offered up to the new panel I marked out the fold line. With the lovely named "flanging pliers" the mounting face was made.
Automotive tire Wood Road surface Asphalt Grey

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Wheel

A little shrinking of the edge to keep the profile correct.
Once the angle was set I offered up the wing to mark out where the mounting threads need to be.
I'm using m8 hank bushes.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Road surface

Normally these are pressed or hammered in, but I prefer to tig weld them in place from both sides.
Nose Head Chin Eyebrow Eye

A quick flash over with a soft pad in a grinder and I tried the panel for fit.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


So that's now ready to weld in place. But I won't do that just yet.

The next job is to make the a post but that will have to wait. You may notice the car is outside. My workshop is full at the moment. One of the projects is a London taxi that converting to a hearse! Once this is done I'll bring the beetle inside. Once it's in, I'll remove the doors get on to the a post. In the meantime I may start making the rear quarter panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #716 ·
Car in the workshop for the day. Today is A post day!

It's going to get nasty....
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A few bodged repairs in the past! I can't moan about them though, I probably did them back in the early 90s! Lol
Automotive tire Wood Road surface Asphalt Brick


I cut away part of the 1/4 panel to have a look at the inside... not pretty !
Maybe order a nice Hookys door post panel? Na, I'll make a Cookys panel instead (my surname is Cooksey) lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #718 ·
I started with the outer panel. It needs to be quite a bit taller than the Hookys one, hence making my own. Alright, I'd have made my own anyway lol
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Wood Automotive tire Gas Composite material Road surface


A quick trial fit with the door frame
Brown Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood

I marked out the hole for the inner door screw and used a qmax punch
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Then rested the hole over some tube and used a ball pien hammer to tap an inner flange as per original. I do have some punches that automatically put the flange in, but not this small.
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Discussion Starter · #720 ·
I seemed to be working hard all day today without much to show! The inner structure is done though. Its just tacked in for the moment.
I made the curved seam panel too. I think this was what took most of my time today. A tricky bit that has to be right.
Plenty of trial fitting of the door. Hopefully I've got everything in the right place!
Automotive tire Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Fender

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Synthetic rubber


I'm welding the inner structure to the remaining original. I've had to guess how it is supposed to look. It did get me wondering how the replacement door post bottoms you can buy are supposed to be fitted. I can't see how the inner reinforcement panel can be welded to the original. So are even the Hookys panels a bit of a bodge?

I don't really have any option but to carry on with this tomorrow. The car needs to go back outside to make way for a customers car, so this phase needs to be finished and given some temporary paint.
 
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