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Discussion Starter · #801 ·
Once I was happy with the fit, the curve for the wing mounting surface was copied over. The edge was folded over and checked on the car against the wing.
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I'm happy with that!

So that's the rear 1/4 made. I just need to weld in the captive nuts (hank bushes actually) for the wing fixings. But I'll do that later as I fit the panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #802 ·
I've just done a leakdown test on the engine... not good!
For those not familiar with this test, it fills the cylinder with compressed air at the top of the compression stroke. It then measures how much pressure is escaping and where from. Its measurements are a percentage loss.

Cylinder 1 = 9%
Cylinder 2 = 8%
Cylinder 3 = 41% through rings
Cylinder 4 =36% through rings

Explains the smoke then!

Looks like I need to order some new barrels and pistons.... I could just do the rings but I have a feeling that there is something seriously wrong with the manufacturer of them. I bought them secondhand but they looked almost brand new. I did wonder why they were up for sale in the first place. Ah well some you win, some you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #804 ·
Poo. Cheap old bore hone and new rings???
Maybe. I'll wait till I've stripped it down and had a look inside. My thoughts are that the piston set was bought new, found to be faulty for some reason and sold on cheaply. As this is going to be my daily, I think I'd prefer the piece of mind of a new, branded set of barrels and pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #808 ·
Ready to go in..
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I then realised the time and got it welded in as quick as I could, and forgot to take any "action" photos.
But here it is all welded in. A very light skim of filler on the weld and some epoxy primer. Then race back home to collect daughter! Phew!
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Not perfect, but loads better than it was!
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So that's the front 1/4, door skin and rear 1/4 all hand made and replaced.
Left to do are the rear valence, front n/s 1/4 and front valence. Then paint. I hate paint prep!
At some point I need to investigate the engine issue, oh and finish the interior! I wanted to be driving it before the end of the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #810 ·
Time to sort out the front inner sheet metal that I removed for the airflow around the radiator. I bought a NOS vw panel
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So, will it fit?

Well, after I'd made a cutout for the rhd steering box, yes it does fit!
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I have noticed that my track rod end rubbers are perished and split, same with two of the ball joints. This front axle came from the donor car for my special. I don't think it has been on the road for decades. I'll order new ends and ball joints all round.
 

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Discussion Starter · #811 ·
I did buy a panel for the brake reservoir recess, but the quality was so poor, I decided not to use it I upgraded to twin circuit brakes years ago and don't use this recess anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #813 ·
Thank you Cat :)

I now have a decision to make. The passenger door is terrible! Lol years ago I removed the handle and welded the recess over. I also did a dodgy lower skin repair involving about an inch of filler! Lol oh and the hinges have had it. Now, I do have a spare 1966 door from the Specials donor car. The lower hinge had seized and the bottom was a little crusty as per usual. It's already had one repair to the Lowe skin, you know the sort of thing, a lapped joint and filler.

Over the last few days I've been heating and oiling the hinge and now it's free. So today I've had a closer look at the door skin. As well as the lower repair/filler it looks like the middle of the door had a high point but rather than dealing with that, they built the rest of the skin up with filler. 6mm all over!
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I wasn't planning on making a new skin for this door as its quite time consuming. I was thinking of just replacing the lower repair with a better one and repair the bits of crusty inner frame. I could still do that. It would mean removing all of the filler, dealing with the high spot, welding the lower repair in and all done.
Or do I just make a new skin?
I can't decide. I hate (like really hate!) removing filler, but then I know this will be the quickest way.

Hmmmm.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #814 ·
After a little thought, I think I have figured out the best route. The time consuming bit of making a new skin is the top, around the window frame and the handle recess. So I think I'm going to remove the whole skin and reuse these areas and make the rest new. Obviously it won't be in aluminium on this side, but I actually think this is best anyway lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #815 ·
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Not too bad under the skin. The rot is limited to the bottom edge of the frame, so the repair is easy and won't be seen......unless I roll the car lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #816 ·
Starting with the side repair
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Folded
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The edge is pinched in my shrinker to induce a curve. At this point I go over curved a little. When I put the second fold in it will cause the repair to straighten out a touch.
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Then welded into place. I use the TIG welder here, neater and less grinding afterwards.
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The weld is then crushed between a hammer and dollie to counter any shrinkage. Then the second fold is put in using some glass pliers
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Discussion Starter · #817 ·
A quick flash off with a soft pad in the grinder and a coat of copper based weld through primer
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I never liked zinc based weld through primer, the spot welder never gave good enough results with it. This copper stuff is way better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #819 ·
The engine is out and stripped!

My curiosity got the better of me!
You may remember I was loosing compression on cylinders 3 and 4. With the engine out I removed the head on 3 and 4 cylinders. The combustion Chambers were quite oily, and the pistons had a little light scoring. Nothing too alarming though so I'm a little unsure what the problem is. I should check the specs, ring gap etc. But I noticed that they were the cheapest brand, so I've decided just to splash out on some better branded b&ps.
Next I needed to remove cylinders 1 and 2, so off came the head.........
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Oops! Looks like a washer had dropped in there! Although both the head and piston was damaged I don't think it would actually do any harm. This cylinder was giving great compression remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #820 ·
Things got a little out of control!
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While I was removing one of the gudgeon clips it pinged off somewhere and I couldn't find it. The only thing I could think was that it had pinged inside the crankcase. So I decided to split the case, but didn't find the clip.
Today I've been cleaning the case and found the clip in the sump! So I was right to spilt the case.
After measuring the crank and case (actually, I got a chap from the workshop opposite mine to help me. He builds engines for all sorts and knew how to use the measuring equipment, unlike me lol) it turns out the bearings are standard, so no reground crank or aline bored case. Not only that, the crank and case have no wear, so will go again without machining. Result!
New bearings are on order, time to do some work on a customers car! Lol
 
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