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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Oi oi,

I've tried to find this information, but can't, so if you can help that would appreciated.

In a spectacularly bad deal I managed to land myself with a 1300cc Type one motor, when all I want is a 1600 like my buggy used to have.

So, where you brilliant people come in is by telling me what components and machining I will need to get me mobile and 1600 powered. Obviously by using my current 1300 motor as a basis, or do I bin it and buy a 1600? I don't really want to go down this route. Do you need to know engine codes etc?

I've heard all sorts of spurious stuff, so some definitive advice is needed. If this is a topic that rears it's head often, sorry I couldn't find the answer elsewhere.

Cheers in advance... :D
 

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well, rather than getting any machine done, probably easier to get 1600 heads, but basically, its barrels, pistons and heads that make the difference, then the carb/manifold setup. The flywheel/clutch is a different size too 1300 = 180mm clutch plate, 1600 = 200mm clutch plate, so you`ll need to get a 1600 flywheel/clutch if you havent got one already, and make sure its shimmed up properly using a little tool which is about £14 from SSP otherwise you can knackered the rear main bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's brilliant, I have precisely no money in the 1300, so I can afford to buy some heads, new pistons and barrels etc for the same money it'd cost me to buy a secondhand and therefore unknown condition 1600.

I didn't know if the block, cam and crank where the same. So the difference in capacity is a larger bore not stroke?

Cheers,
 

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13/15/1600 engines all share the same crank, between the various engines there are minor differences, but bottom end wise essentially they are the same.

the question is what condition is the bottom end? any end float? good runner?
 

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Tomarse said:
TP heads are the same between 1300 and 1600....
No, they are different. The bore is smaller on the 1300 and even if you machine it out, the CR is different too and you would have to shim it. So, all in all, it would be far better to replace the heads.
 

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Tomarse said:
I'd imagine that you don't have to change the clutch either.
there should be no problem running a 1600 with a 180mm clutch on the road - its not like you're doubling the power.
if you get 50,000 miles out of a 200mm clutch then you might only get 48,000 out of a 180mm ;)
:)
 

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Peter said:
No, they are different. The bore is smaller on the 1300 and even if you machine it out, the CR is different too and you would have to shim it. So, all in all, it would be far better to replace the heads.
Oops! :eek: I must have got lucky then when I rebuilt mine. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys, the 1300 is a good 'un. No end float and low miles on a full rebuild, so I guess the question is? Anybody got some 1600 heads they want to part with? ;)
 
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