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1147 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  al_kaholik
Just a quick question peeps can you convert a 1303 chassis to take a normal frame head for beam suspension?
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I read it can be done but its not a job to be taken lightly , a lot of very careful measurements (and possibly some kind of jig) are going to be needed as its got to be 100% aligned correctly. Not too sure what the insurance peeps would say either...

Sorry thats probably no real help.
This gets done a lot for kit cars, 'coz they want the IRS double jointed rear, and the higher ratio 1303S gearbox, but also want the simplicity of a torsion bar front, then just bolt-on a figreglass tub. A chassis jig is essential, to get the correct angle of the torsion beam mounting plate / the front face of the Frame head.
Check people like Chesil Speedsters website, they quote prices for outright, or to convert yours. Some of the Buggy manufacturers offer the same service.
Volkswagenwerke in Dorset are who you need.
John used to do all the Chesil pans and the ones for the GP Spyders.
Also does buggy pans (he's who I use).
now why would you want to do something silly like that :rolleyes:

essentially, as far as i can work out having stripped my own 1302s chassis, the thing that makes the bugs diff, its a diff welded on frame head & a different napolian hat section.

i would have thought a less hassle idea might be to get hold of a semi auto bug, they are already beam and IRS.

1303 macphersons strut suspension is good :hangloose
It can be done. Volkskraft.com can do it, and well too!
I am doing this conversion now on my 1303 floorpan and fitting a new framehead i think you need to use a new framehead as they have a bit extra length toallow it to be connected to the tunnel its not such a bad job just check and double check measurements
One thing to remember about this conversion (especially if you intend to fit a standard Bug bodyshell) is this: The front cross panel, on the chassis (to which the master cylinder attaches) is different to a standard Bug. The two pairs of chassis bolt holes, at the outer points of this cross panel are also in a different alignment than on a standard Bug. So, to avoid fitting problems, you should also replace this cross panel. I am sure that the various companies who perform this job, know this, but I have heard of a few nasty DIY surprises, in the past!
Peter, the replacement framehead part comes complete with the "hat" at the front. Thuogh some do not have holes cut for the master cylinder :)
The framehead i bought does not have this crossmember you cut the old one off in front of that but it does have the plat under neath to allign up with the crossmember bolts the book on brakes and suspension for vws explains the fitment quite well

Part 25 is what you want to make the process easier.
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