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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1973 1303.. Had her since a week before I turned 18 so well over half my life.. Gradually evolved into a nice German look 1303, British racing green paint, 2270 T4 engine, kerscher suspension, braided brakes, 17" wolfwace octane blacks with polished rims, tinted glass (factory tint, not a film), bucket seats and tons of other little mods..




Started on an EFI install last year only to discover that over the years and from not being used a lot and stored in a not as dry as it should have been garage rust has started to set in.. This needs sorting before I do anything else.

Have already stripped and renenwed a large amount of the front end, including replacing all the bushings, sorting out some damaged bolts etc.. Everything that was touched was stripped back to bare metal and then treated with Epoxy Mastic 121. Anything with surface rust was treated with wire brush, RC800 then some more wire brush, doing my best to get rid of all traces of rust.



That was the front end in progress.. still gotta do inner wings etc, but am concentrating on Pan and suspension/steering/brakes atm then work my way up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Passenger channel was solid and straight with near zero signs of rust when I stipped the an back and stuck an endoscope inside, worked my way across the main pan left to right.. Driverside I found this:



Yeah. Not good. The old garage had a leak that leaked onto driverside windscreen, clearly this was tracing down and adding to the ongoing rot of the channel..

So after a bit of cutting and drilling out spot welds I have quite a large section of the channel closing plate sat on the bench, alongside the Hookys replacement (http://www.hookyspanelshop.com/)



Thats just a small section, whole length is more rust.. The dark patches are wax oyl.. Clearly when injected nowhere near enough was used and wasnt worked into all areas well enough. Under the waxoyl:



Good clean solid metal!

And inside the channel itself:


98% good clean solid metal!! Phew!

I have a pair of Hookys channel closing plates (as I am sure at some point I will need to do the other side, so bought and stashed) and a full pair of JP Group channels (very heavy) so any repair sections needed are available.

Will be fitting stripping the rest of the channel closing plate out over the next week or two (the front end body isnt lifting off the pan very well, have clearly missed something) and then sorting any and all rust then refitting.

This time the waxoyl will be preheated in near boiling water, injected on a very hot day under a good high pressure.. Ensuring lots and lots goes in. The channel closing plates will then be heated with a hot air gun until the wax oyl is seaping out of any and all seams.. Left to cool then another round of injecting done. There will be PLENTY in there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The floorpan itself is in reasonable shape, with the usual areas showing issues, primarily the area around the pedals and around the battery tray:



So whilst body and pan are unbolted this will get cut out and repair section welded in. Its been a few years since I have welded in anger, so will see how much of it comes flooding back.. Now have a large double garage (5.5m wide by 6m long internal) which is water tight, I have fitted 8x 6ft flourescent tube and it has a pit, so no more welding sat on the driveway with bemused neighbours passing comment.

:)

More soon!
 

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Very nice ride! Big fan of the German looking 1303.

What I'm surprised at is the rot, and how deceiving it can be. At first glance your ride looks mint, and then seeing the rot on the floorpan, etc ... it's as bad as mine! ;)

I'll be watching this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Surprised me too, but knew at somelevel that it was there (jacking on that side was a little cruncy if you used the jacking point)

Also found that it looks like expanding foam was used on some repair area (driverside A pillar for one...) so am pulling that out too.. Fortunately nothing too bad down there so far.

Once these issue and areas are fixed I will be going on another journey of rust proofing, injecting tons of the stuff into all the right places in the hope of keeping it at bay for a long(er) time.

The EFI/Turbo setup will happen, just after all this work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Managed to get another few hours out there, starting to straighten the lip of the heater channel and had a better look around/inside it..



Inside it all good, looks solid.



Took a sharp screwdriver and a wire brush to it after straightening it, lifting off the paint till I found good clean metal. Wasnt far to go fortunately. Few spots where moisture had got in so some spots of surface rust.. Soon removed and then areas treated with RC800 rust converter.



Moving backwards to the rear inner wing, stripping off the waxoyl and paint and underseal turns up a pidgeon shit repair done by a garage and some more rust.. Paint was bubbling on the rear panel too in one spot so stripped that back too



Again, wire brushed and treated with RC800



Started working out where to cut the pan to remove the battery tray, more on that later.
 

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a pidgeon shit repair done by a garage
You'd think a garage would do an honourable job, to get some repeat business, etc, etc! Nothing new here I know, but still, annoys me!

Nice renovation work, good to catch the rust before it gets too serious.
 

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Looking good :)

Whenever you find rust bubbling the paint you should go at least 12mm into what looks like good paint. You can be surprised at how far the metal has started to rust even if the paint is still solid.

As for your closing panel on the heater channel. Looks like the x-member is solid so if the return flange at the back of the channel still exists then you have something to weld the closing panel to.

With the battery tray I'd suggest fabricating your own repair if the possible. The repair sections are made of thin gauge low quality steel so using some galvanised 0.9mm sheet steel will be far better than the repro panel you buy.
 

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Yea, I've got the 3M half mask. The vapour/gas filters are reasonably priced and mean I don't get welders flu anymore :)
With the downward facing snout? I looked but was concerned about fit with a mask. Ended up with an eclipse mask. Nice but steams up a face mask, a little creativity has solves the issue with disposable pieces... Fine in a welding mask but not great out of the box with a full face shield
 
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