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Generally it takes them abit more than moving about in the driveway to make them settle.

I wouldnt stress to much till its been driven abit, then you'll know for sure what its riding at
 

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Tie rods hitting the swaybar is a 2bolt problem not an issue on 3 bolters, but they still hit and bend on the body when the suspension bottoms out.

Flipping the sway bar works ok on 2 bolt front ends but I wouldn't recommend it on a 3 bolter, it throws the castor out and creates some shocking bump steer. been there done that.

Best be is a proper lowered sway bar, bigger than stock too makes all the difference, Ive got a 7/8" on the front of mine and it corners like its on railst

Oh yeah almost forgot u cant fit a flip-it bumpsteer kit on a 2 bolter, the tierods will bottom out on the sway bar
It has been about a year since i made this modification to my '74 2 bolt 1303, and a full season later i can say that it works and is roadworthy.

As i lowered my superbeetle with kerscher adjustable coilovers, i had experienced a lot of bump steer and some contact between control arms and rack&pinion; steering rods and chassis aswell. also, as i looked all over the internet people were unable to use steering rod flip-it kits with 2-bolters because of interference between steering rods and sway bar in some positions.

As i was not happy with the minimum height of my vehicle while still maintaining some of the suspension travel, i looked into possible solutions. I came up with custom made, longer ball joints and use of standard flip-it kit, which was now possible. The neck of ball joint is longer by 20mm, which is just enough that keeps the arms from bottoming out, steering rods from touching sway bar in any position and helps to form proper geometry when combined with the flip-it kit.

This is what it looks like, compared to stock tie rod:



Here it is, mounted:



This is the closest possible position of the steering rod and sway bar



The steering rod and control arms are virtually parallel, which eliminates most of the bump steer



Here is the height of the car, could still go lower for shows:




So after a year of everyday usage, i can say that this solution works great; i could also install shorter bumpstops on the coilovers to further extend the suspension travel. Since these modifications has been made, i have never experienced any bottoming out.

If anyone is interested, i could probably arrange manufacturing of some additional sets of these ball joints, the price for a pair would be in the ballpark of 100 eur + p&p; probably a little less when group buy could be organised. Contact me at email: tine.wolf [at] amis.net .

Cheers,

Tine
 

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Hi, I was a little confused by the term 'tie rod' as what you show is not the tie rod but a extended track rod end. By dropping the track rod end lower you have infact raised the roll centre of the suspension that will have two consequences:
1) the amount of roll at the front is reduced and that will affect the turn-in.
2) the raised roll centre coupled with the lowered rear will create a great deal of squat and reduce the dive at the front.
With a bug the main problem is that it has little weight at the front and therefore IMO it is necessary to increase the loads at the front, not reduce them. The increase in roll is beneficial as it loads the outside wheel that coupled with some neg camber will maximise the grip. Similarly, weight transfer under braking is useful to load both front wheels to better use the available braking performance.

On my '74 1303 2-bolt I have used porsche 924S front struts with 40mm lowering Spax springs and dampers and I have fabricated my own track control arms because I thought the standard '03 ones were too flimsy and I needed to attach the 944 bottom ball joint. I have also dropped the inner pivot point by 25mm to lower the roll centre. As I have said before the stability of this car through the turns has got to be felt to be believed and I have yet to get to the limit of adhesion only courage. The lower roll centre also counteracts the lowering of the car so that the relationship between the front and rear roll centres remains and the performance under braking is retained.
 

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Sorry for misunderstanding, i mixed up tie rods and ball joints :D In my language it's the same word for both.

Well, if you have installed 944 spindles you have actually done the same thing as i have, as these spindles tend to move the axis up an inch or so, which is a bit more than 20mm my ball joints raise the spindle. The longer BJ neck is, from geometrical point of view, a part of the spindle.

The car feels very neutral when cornering, when on/over the limit it tends to start losing grip quite balanced and controlled over all 4 tyres. it sure can be provoked to understeer in some cases as any rear engined car can be. I personally would like to have a bit more oversteer, so for the next season the plan is to install a type3 square / porsche rear torsion bars, which are a bit stiffer and will complete the suspension as i wish. Hopefully! :D
 
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