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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
Will the stuff in the roofs cant rails run out again and stain the headliner when its parked in the sun once finished or once its set does it stay solid?
Its not supposed to be inside the roof. I will glue some sounddeading material onto there;)

It were a consequence of me putting the body upside down and spraying it inside the cavities, to get inside joints facing downward and out behind the raingutters.

I have already removed it from inside the roof, alongside from all other surfaces where the interior is going to be.

And no it never harden. It will set to a thin greasy sticky layer on all surface, that can melt again and creep further into the joints, when it is hot or the sun shines on the car. Therefore it will also never be able to develop cracks or lose contact with the surface.

And yes it will stain the interior if it gets on that. :eek:


Oh just realize what you mean. I have removed as must as i can from there and before I am going to put in the headliner in I am anticipating it has stooped coming out of there. Maybe i will fire up my heater to speed up the process!
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Made a stand for the body and put the pan underneath.

The stand raises the body 85 cm. So there is enough room to work on both.

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Dismantled the steering column. Cleaned everything.
The grease had become so stiff that the steering lock could not engage!

Painted the tube and the housing satin black.

At the bottom there were a Bakelite ring to prevent the needle baring falling down trough the bottom. It has got brittle and was smoldering.
The oldest son works at a machine shop, he will turn a aluminum ring to put in instead.

The PO had bought a new lock cylinder. Chinese crap! Used an hour to get it work properly...

Will see if I can source a original used on with a key and hopefully two door handles to match. If it turns out to be impossible I will "later" buy a new German set.

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Dug out the parts for the steering.

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AND here is the first things mounted back onto the car......!
Nice and shiny.

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Greased up the new bolts.
Sealed the joints and boltholes with a tar based underbody sealer to prevent moisture coming in between.

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And wiped of the surplus.

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Discussion Starter · #125 · (Edited)
Started to put the rear suspension together.

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Have set the springplates to 19,6 degrees it is about 2 degrees up from stock and will lower the rear with about 1,5 cm.

I don’t want the rear to drag along the pavement, but as I will lowered the front 5 cm. I will neither want the rear to sit too high.

Think this is a good compromise and the Bilstein gas shock absorbers is going to prevent the rear from smacking down.
Had actually a little fight pressing them down so that I could fit the top bolt...

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Used a bottle jack and a strap to force the springplates in position and fitted temporally two long bolts to pres the cap in place.

The hook in the end of the strap sits in one of the holes in the springplate and then it is just wrapped up and over the dampertower a few times and tied to the top of the dampertower, and with the springplates fitted before the trailing arms there is no fight getting them behind and in place and thereby messing up all the new paint.

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Then fitted the trailing arms and shocks.

Wood Bumper Gas Flooring Tool


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Now I just need to torque all the bolts down, but not the ones connecting the trailing arms with the springplates as they are going to come loose again when I set the wheel tracking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Slowly coming together.



As a precaution every tread is recut.




Don’t know how they gets away with it, but I have noticed the replacement freamheads one can buy for the 1302 / 1303 has no internal strength where the swaybar is attached.

The original ones has a massive piece of tubeing going from the topside, where it has a flange supporting on the outside, right down to the bottom side, with a 25 millimeter long tread inside.
Meaning when you tighten the swaybar its pulls from the top side and jam top and bottom together, giving a solid construction.

The replacement ones has only as nut spot welded inside on the top of the bottom plate and no connection to the top side...

This is a high stress area holding the front wheel in place.
Not a place where I would like to have a low strength area!!

Luckily my framehead were serviceable and didn’t need replacement, but thinking of someone in the trade has so low a concern for road safety of the parts they make and sell is outright appalling.


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Front suspension now ready.
As shown earlier in here, struts with spindles is already assembled and can go in when the body is dropped on the pan.

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Has also put the steering column back together and loosely fitted it into the car.
It has to come out again when the oldest junior has made the bottom bearing stop ring.

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Build the rear brakes and have fitted one of them onto the car.

Have made a mistake when I ordered the parts. Got two right hand brackets holding the cables onto the back plate ... And none for left side.
Now have to wait for the left side bracket to arrive before I can complete the rear brakes.


Cleaned out the handbrake cable tubes with some pieces of cloth soaked in odorless kerosene and shot trough the tubes with compressed air. Finding and getting all the pieces out of the frame tube were a “fishing” project.

After that lots and lots of grease and the new cables, went in.

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Made in Germany,
And the white label says Poland. :LOL:


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Before assembly I thinned some of my cavity oil with 90% of kerosene and soaked the backing plates with the solution.
They tend to rust in between the dual layer.
Now there is a tiny bit of the wax - oil mix in there to prevent / slow down the process.

Cleaned the inside of the plates from all traces of the mix, to prevent contamination of the brake shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Took the pedal assembly apart, cleaned everything, polished the moving parts and assembled it with new grease.

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Completely dismantled the dashboard.
Gave it all a thoroughly wash in the hot tub, along with the fresh air parts and sprayed it with some vinyl restorer / makeup.

Going to let it set for some days, before I wipe of the surplus. That’s why it is so shiny now.

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Sanded down the windshield vent plate and gave it a few coats of satin black.

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Test fitted the dash into the car – without the vent plate – but with the top deflector plate, to get an idea of where and how thick the sealing between the top deflector plat and dash should be.

As you can see – red arrow – there are actually, in some places, a huge gap.

If it is not sealed the hot and cold air going to the windshield will partly go down behind the dashboard instead.

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Assembled the newly painted handbrake lever and fitted it to the pan along with the cables, brake pipes, master cylinder and rear brake drums.

Except for the front disks, calipers and pedal assembly, all the brake parts is now fitted.

The front has to wait until after the body goes on the pan as they sits on the spindles currently fitted to the front struts.

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Auto part Carmine Trigger Personal protective equipment Starting pistol


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The brake hoses is only temporally fitted to line it all up.
They look fairly new but could be old.
I don’t trust them.
One of them has some resistance inside when I blow trough them with my mount.
Could be because they are falling apart inside.

New ones is ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Brakehoses and the last small items arrived and were fitted.

Clutch cable, accelerator cable and pedal assembly went in.
Think it was the last to go on the pan before assembly to the body.

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Turned the attention to the transaxle.
As shown earlier it was painted black by the PO.
It was a shitty paintjob partly on top of old dirt and corrosion.

Fortunately it was painted with 1K paint and it was only a brunch over with thinner until it started to dissolve and thereafter some brown soap and water.

Left it in a plastic bag overnight with the soap on.
Next day it were fairly easy to wash all the paint off.

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Flushed the inside 3 times with kerosene.

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Still dirty inside!

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Took it apart and removed the old seals.

Couldn’t get the gearbox separated from the housing, as I don’t have the special socket for it, and it is ridiculous expensive, so I just don’t hope there isn’t any fault inside.
What I could see from the things I could dismantle it all looked fine and after degreaseing the internals with lots of brake cleaner, there were no rumble from faulty bearings..

Cleaned everything with brake cleaner.

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Lubricated it all with gear oil or grease.

Put it all back together with new seals and gaskets.

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Wire brushed the outside with a brass wire wheel on the drill. It is not going to get painted again.
Ready to go in, but the new rear mounts bought by the PO is shit and is only suitably for holding the bin to the floor....
CSP have some nice ones, costly, but good quality.


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Got hold of a “ as new” instruction manual.
It came with a analog GPS from the time when my bug was new.

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Have started to consider what I am going to do with the engine.

Have decided it should have an upgrade to something with a little more power. Not a race engine, but something drivable, looking stock, and build for durability.
Thinking 1776 ccm. - the oldest son can do the machining - With a mild cam for a nice idle.
Have ordered a CB 2280 cheater camshaft and for the exhaust I have already bought a pair of CSP high flow tail pipes. Maybe I will open up the exhaust and modify the internals for a little more flow..
Going to keep the carburetor stock looking with a 34 pict and maybe open up the venturi a little.
Heads stock, with a little work in the flow department.
Compresion around 8.5 : 1.

But all that for later.
Don t have the money for it all just now.....

Consider taking a look at the wiring loom next. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Wires for the most sorted out..

It was just removed and all the connections were taken apart without marking up where the wires were attached!
Even the wires in the plugs under the dash, connecting front and rear, were taken out of the plugs.
To make in even more fun. Someone had started to put the wires back in the fuse box, but not in the right places.

The bug does not have a complicated wire harness, but when everything is pulled apart and not labeled, it takes some time to get everything connected to where it is meant to be.

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The wires on the switches doesn’t even have to be taken of. The switches pops out backwards....
And one can just leave them on the harness..

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Only thing I still is a little unsure about is the back of the speedometer, but I don’t think there is a lot of more ways to put it together in.

If anybody looking at the picture finding errors, please let me know.

For the record. The green wire going to the voltage regulator is black in all the diagrams I have, but it is connected correct to fuse 12 as the black wire in the diagrams, and gets power when the ignition is turned on. It is crimped in the connector with the thicker green wire going to the same terminal on fuse 12, delivering power to the hazard light switch, so it is not because I have used the black one somewhere else.
Also the wire here going to the gas tank gauge is yellow, this is also black in the diagrams, but it is also yellow in the harness going out to the gas tank.

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The parts going to the front and rear lights is a mess and have been cut and repaired several times.
I will cut the front ones inside the trunk and make a connector in there. From there I am going to put in new wires.

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The rear harness has already connectors on it and I can just make new wires from there.

And while I were at it, I of computerized my bug.

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It is strange.
There is two 8 pin connectors behind the dash.
One connecting to the front and one for the rear, but for some reason VW have not finished the job.
Not all the pins in the connectors are used and there is still loose wires connecting to the fuse box and other places.
One could finish the job, but don’t think I will need to take it apart again.


Have ordered new correct rear mounts for the transaxle.
There are also a more correct one available for the front, than the one I already got, but have to stop somewhere....
When they arrives, it can go back on the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Two “new” sets of rear transaxle mounts.....!

The new ones the PO had bought for the car is 6 mm lower that the correct ones I got from CSP.
Not only the rubber is to thin and soft, the mounting holes is also placed to far against the top of the bracket. Furthermore the bracket itself is also made out of a to thin a steel plate.
With 6 mm to low sitting at the front of the engine, no wonder the tailpipes were hanging below the rear valance, as the the engine / transaxle assembly had a downward angle towards the rear.
Now I just hope my fatter – high flow - tailpipes will fit the valance, or I may have to modify it and repaint..

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With the new correct mounts the gearbox went in.

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Then to a job I have been putting aside for a while.
The messy job of cleaning the drive shafts.

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Took them apart and cleaned everything up. And of course one of the circlips went flying. Think I spent an hour looking for it, and gave up. Just buy another one I thought. NO. Not from my usually suppliers. Could get them from Germany, but with 16 EUR in delivery it was a no go...

Next day I looked for it again, and was struck by luck. It had been flying outside and was laying in the gravel....

It is all original VW parts and all serviceable.

Wear marks is not a fault, only pitting and scoring. They can get lose in the fit and then there will be backlash when accelerating and decelerating. One can then decide when it gets to much. One of the CV joints were a little more loos in the fit, than the others. I have marked it up so I can identify it, if there is to much backlash in the drive train, and I want to replace it on a later time.

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When the CV joints is put back together I found it was easiest to just put in just two balls first, opposite each other, and then put the rest in one at the time.. One had to remember that a wide space in the outer race, has to line up with a narrow one in the inner race.
It is possible to put it back together the wrong way.
If it is not possible to press the inner race back and forth, with the hands. It is put together the wrong way.
Also the camphor edge in the inner race should face the rubber bellow side of the CV joint.



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Everything cleaned. Mos2 grease bought, and it all could go back together.
The VW workshop manual specifies 45 grams of Mos2 grease put in each side of each CV joint, so the 400 gram in this tube was used up.

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Tools used for putting the CV joints back on the axles.

Pliers Hand tool Diagonal pliers Electrical wiring Cable



Found a 32 mm socket was fine to tap the CV joints back on the shaft again, and with the spring effect from the washer preventing the circlip to go in place, it came also in handy to tap the CV joints down with the circlips put onto the shaft.
The circlips can not go in place without the races is hold down, - VW had a special tool for that - but with the circlip put on the axle and the 32 mm socket gaping over it, it is possible to tap on the socket so that the circlips springs into the grove.
Made also sure they were fully seated with a pump pliers.....

Washer fitted on the axle with the edge pointing upwards, to set the CV joint in tension between the washer and circlip.

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Hope it makes sense!

All asembled and fitted, and the transaxle were filled with oil.

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Body went back on the Pan.

Before that I have already Refitted the gearshift rod and a new busing.
Have also cleaned and painted the gear shifter, before fitting it.
Heatercables and levers were also fitted.

Previously I have glued the seal to the pan.
I have not made holes in the seal for the bolts.
It is fairly easy to punch trough with a screwdriver and fit the bolts.
I have not sealed with sealer between the seal and the body. I want it to be easy to lift the body again, if something has gone wrong..
I will seal the outer seam between the Body and Pan with some non hardening tar based underbody sealer to make the joint watertight and flexible.

In one of my test fit, before painting, when I did the bodywork, I have already test fitted all the bolts and filed the holes up in the pan, that didn’t lined up exactly.

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All the bolts were greased before fitting.

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Last bolt went in.

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The struts went in and the top flange were sealed with tar sealer.

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Brake calibers were cleaned inside out.

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Backing plate, brake disks and spedo cable were fitted.
I have fitted new front wheel bearings – cheap Chinese ones - , think they will last 500 km. One of them already rumbles....!
And then fitted the newly painted calibers, with new brake pads.

Brake hoses and the last piece of brake line were then fitted.

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Missing the last bolts in the shock towers.
Had to make sure how thick I should make the rubber padding to go in between.
I have some lorry tire tread robber, from when I have worked with putting new rubber on old tires..
I will use that to cut some padding for the shock towers.

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Just missing the Lawnmower engine to go in.

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Or I could buy one of these and use it to do a fast and cheap overhaul of my original engine. :unsure:

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Found some cheap selfadhesive 17x17 mm. seals that will do the trick of sealing the gap between the dash and vent plate.

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Wire harness in and have fitted the fresh air flap box.

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Cleaned all the layers of old paint over spray of the bonnet lock plate and fitted it with 4 mm stainless steel screws, with self locking nuts on the underside.

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Looks like its coming along nicely. I really enjoyed the stage of bolting shiny clean parts back onto the painted shell, though trying to do it without scratching anything was a nail biter at times.
Yes it is a weary rewarding process, but one of the things I run into all the time.
I am always missing some little item to finish every task and have to order again and again.

As I was not the one that took the car apart, I am always struggling to figure out everything to be used, and if something is missing, but there is always something else to do, so no time wasted, waiting for parts to arrive.
 

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I am always missing some little item to finish every task and have to order again and again.
I've been trying my best to get everything ready and sorted for when the time comes, but that's when you realise just how many little rubber bits (for example) are needed. Not kidding, the invoice for replacing every seal, grommet, bush and every other rubber part is scary and long, but when you go this far it doesn't seem right to re-fit multiple decade old rubber. Even with all the boxes of cleaned up original and/or replacement parts I'm sure I'll still get at least one or two of those "oh bugger" moments when I realise I've either lost or not yet got something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Fitted some gas struts for the bonnet hinges.

The original holes for the springs in the bonnet hinges, had to be drilled to 8 mm. and as I didn’t want to molest the original mounting pins for the lower mounting and use the supplied bolt. The lower hole in the gas struts had to be drilled to 9 mm.

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Has put the dash back together again.

It can go back in the car when I am finish with hot air connections and have tidyed the wires up a little.

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It is not only the crappy Chinese spare parts that doesn’t fit properly.
The tubes connecting the inside of the A-post with the vent plate is around 2 cm. to short and the angle is also off!!

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I used several layers of my seal, bought for the vent plate, to make up an airtight connection.

It is not because the hot air blows past, the 47,5 mm. hose from the heaterchannels fits tightly inside the tubes, but if the connection is not airtight, there will be cold air drafting in from the trunk.

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Wiper assy went in.

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Couldn’t get hold of the grommets for the shafts, so I cut down to fit some 20 mm grommets I had laying around.

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And that makes one more thing done.

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