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133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I've been trying my best to get everything ready and sorted for when the time comes, but that's when you realise just how many little rubber bits (for example) are needed. Not kidding, the invoice for replacing every seal, grommet, bush and every other rubber part is scary and long, but when you go this far it doesn't seem right to re-fit multiple decade old rubber. Even with all the boxes of cleaned up original and/or replacement parts I'm sure I'll still get at least one or two of those "oh bugger" moments when I realise I've either lost or not yet got something.
Yes and even if you had been looking at something and have decided it can be reused.
When the times come, it many times seems to be inferior.

Upon that. I am really struggling to get all the grommets in the right seizes... :rolleyes:

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133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Dashboard is now installed along and all the wirering is connected.

When I started on the restoration, I were going to modify the dash to accept more gauges, but now I am more keen to get the car together, and “just” make up a center console for rev-counter and other gauges. Beside that my dash is in an excellent condition and I think it will be a sham to cut it up and rework it!

Motor vehicle Hood Steering wheel Steering part Automotive exterior

Unfortunately the return spring and one of the small sleds is missing in the wiper stalk assy.
Have to decide if I can live with the auto return not working, or buy a new stalk.

Kitchen utensil Tableware Jewellery Auto part Metal

A lot of my time the last week has gone into research options for building my engine.

Within the next 2 weeks I have to take the engine apart and decide what cc I am going for, as we probably, between Christmas and newyear, have access to the machine shop where my son is working, and before that I have to get the cylinders, so we have them in hand, when we are going to mill out for them in the engine case and heads.

Initially I have decided to go for 1776 cc, but now I am also considering some thick wall 1835 cc – 92 mm- or even 1914 cc have struck my mind.

The milling for the thick wall 1835 cc and the 1914 cc is the same.

Decisions – decisions! :unsure:

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2,636 Posts
I’m just going to put it out there… If your son is going to do the boring and cutting for you I would go as big as possible with the stock crank so perhaps 94mm 1914cc and get everything balanced it won’t cost more than a 1776? You could run it with a single carb and upgrade to dual 40’s in future if you fancied.

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133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #144 ·
That’s OK thanks.
I know I could just go for 1914 cc, and it was also a close decision, but I have decided for a set of thick wall 1835 cc.
From the outset I only wanted a some more power over the standard 1300 cc and have set my mind around 70 HP... Using as much standard parts as possible.
The 1776 cc setup CSP has shown, with their “standard” High flow exhaust, is just that.

On the other hand.
Now the engine is going to be taken apart. It is a great opportunity to do some more.
Therefore I have raised the cc to 1835. Reason for that is. It is the cylinders with the thickest wall and the only ones, for my use, close to the 1600 cc.
1600 cc cylinders has 9.5 mm left in the bore in the heads for wall thickness.
1835 cc has 9 mm.
1914 and 1776 has 6 mm.
The only ones with as much wall thickness is the 1676 machine in ones. They have a bore in the heads as a 1776 cc but is 2 mm smaller. They have 10 mm left for wall thickness. Bore in heads 98 mm. pistons 88 mm.

As the wall I about half of the difference between bore in the heads and the cylinder bore.
The 1835 cc ones ends up with a wall thickness of around 4.5 mm. only a fraction under a 1600 with 4.75 mm.
1914 cc will only be 3 mm. and the extra heat from the larger combustion has even less material to disperse into.

As I am a little belt and braces, and wanting to build the engine to last.
I think the ability to disperse heat is an important factor in that calculation.

Maybe I am over thinking “again”, but as I like the peace of mind and actually don’t even need the 1835 cc. I think they are a good compromise, and what the heck. If I sometimes in the future want a fraction more cc. The engine is ready for the 1914 ones!

The rest of the engine.
Initially I would have used a stock cam or a very mild one, but again I have made a compromise.
Now going for a W100. In a set with lifters and springs to match along with bolted rockershafts and some stiffer Cr-Mo pushrods.
I will then leave the rockers to the standard ones and maybe fit some swivel feet adjusters.
Hoping the raise in cc can compensate for the some of the lost low end with another cam.
CR around 8.5:1

Everything is going to be balanced

A little work to the flow in the standard heads and intake endpicess with matching ports etc. will be done, and I am also going to fabricate my own intake centerpice, Of course with pre heat, to suit an “upgraded” 34pict carb.
This will be the outset. What the future brings. Nobody knows.

The oil system will get the HVX mod and a full flow external oil filter.
The original oil cooler is preserved, but I will monitor the oil temperature, and if is too high. I will fit an additional oil cooler.
When it is ready, it is going to get a modern fully synthetic engine oil. 0W-40 or the 5W-50 or maybe a 0W-30 that holds at least a viscosity of 3.5 at 150 degrees. None, none synthetic oils do that. They have all stooped lubricating at around 120 degrees.
I know oil is religion, but this is what I believe in. Supported by my findings on the subject, over the last 35 years.
After all it is also a compromise.
Want a high flow for cooling – thin oil –
At the same time want some viscosity at high temperatures – thick oil -

Exhaust. Modified standard one with CSP High Flow tailpipes or the stainless exhaust CSP got for the tailpipes.

Have still some minor tasks to attend to, but overall I am going a little in engine mode for now, but as I can’t paint the doors, front hood, decklid and fenders before it starts to get a little warmer.
I can do the engine, and when it is in.
I can race up and down the street, in my polar clothing, without windows, fenders and doors....! 🥶

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August 67 Karmann cabrio beetle.
68 Posts
All of the above is why the 1968cc is one of my favourites. Thick barrels and 74 stroke (no extra clearancing in most cases) and works well with single carb, dual ICTs for good torque/economy or IDFs if wanting top end power (with the right cam and heads). A very versatile, easy to build engine which should give a long life.

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133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Took the engine apart.

Both heads cracked in several places.
End play bearing housing worn.
All other bearing houses badly beaten.
One of the dowel pins loose in the case.
Dowel pins loose in all the bearings, and bearings has shifted loose in the case.
Main bearings worn.
Lifter bores worn.
Lifters worn.
Camshaft loop surfaces started to break down.
Crankshaft seems useable without grinding, but have to take some measurements, and have a closer look.

Looks as if it has been driven HARD with the pedal down in third gear, for most of its life.
High rev and overheating!

Haven’t gone more into it, as it for me by now, already is unusable junk.
I am not going to have it line bored, sleeved in the lifter bores and we then also have to machine it for bigger cylinders, and maybe then some other issues turns up.

Now I have some thinking to do, as I don’t have any usable parts, from that engine, to build on, except a crankshaft and some con-rods.
I don’t have money for new heads and a new engine case, and wont fork out money on used parts, that later down the road, also turns out to be faulty.

Have to take a closer look on the other engine case, and heads, I have laying around.
At first glance it looks useable but it is a AS21 case, and the heads, Mexicans, have also some minor cracks. Not as bad as the engine from my car, but still!
And as I remember. The camshaft and lifters is OK.

It is the remains from a 1600 Bus engine.

For now I am thinking of building, the cheapest possible 1600, from the Bus engine parts and what I can use from the 1300 I have just taken apart.
Use that in the car for some time, while I collect money and parts for the engine I want.
Think I can come around it and only have to buy some new bearings, the cheapest possible 1600 cc P&C and maybe a new oil pump.

If I skip the “discount” 1600 engine build, and going straight for the original plan, the car is going to sit for at least another year, or even more!
Don’t think I am in the mood for that.

Oh what a happy Christmas. I have bought the car with a newly refurbished 1300 engine, and the seller, a mechanic with 50 years of experience, said it looked inside, as if it were nearly new!!!!:mad:
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