[smargalicious]

Hello! I have a beautifully restored '68 Beetle. Ran great until I let it sit for about a year without seriously driving it due to life issues, then I wanted to start driving it again. Engine will pop and sputter, then die. Sounded like a fuel issue. Drained the tank, put new gas in. Still the same. Then got out the manual and checked the points. Re-set the gap. Actually ran a little longer, but still starts sputtering and dies. Took the carb off and checked it, bowl is working fine, getting gas, needle is functional. Now not getting any turnover. Did I blow a fuse?

Is it loading into the trailer and shop time? Suggestions?

Thank you.

 

[GARRICK.CLARK]

If the ignition is all good and it stalls, it's lack of fuel. Blow all the jets out, especially the idle jet.

 

[smargalicious]

If the ignition is all good and it stalls, it's lack of fuel. Blow all the jets out, especially the idle jet.

Thank you. I will try this and get back to you.

 

[smargalicious]

Still won't stay running, despite blowing out the idle jet. 🤬

When I fiddle with the timing and points it will turn over for an extra minute or so, but then dies.

I'm thinking of converting to an electronic ignition with this:

PERTRONIX 1847A IGNITOR® BOSCH 009 ELECTRONIC IGNITION CONVERSION KIT

What do you think? Anybody else have good results after they get rid of their pesky points?

 

[dc66]

Idle shut off valve?

 

[Mr.Whippy]

Swapping to electronic points is unlikely to cure your issues.
As above, first check the fuel solenoid shutoff valve is working. You should hear it click when the ignition is turned on & off, if not then first check the wiring to it is sound, nice tight spade connectors, no frayed wiring etc... Then if that is all good and the valve is not clicking then replace the valve.

Also check the auto-choke is working, remove the air filter and the choke flap should be closed when the engine is cold, but should be fully open after 5 mins of running.

If you then still suspect the points, buy a new set of points and a new condensor, set them up properly and don't forget to correct the ignition timing afterwards. New points and a condensor are much cheaper than the electronic replacement. If you want to go electronic, fine, but prove the fault first with the basic and much cheaper stock option and go electronic later would be my advice.

Dave.

 

[SlowestCoach]

Fuel or spark? The eternal question.

So perform a test & diagnose.

Get a can of ezi-start or just brake cleaner (something flammable). Remove the air cleaner and when it starts to bog down and stall, add a squirt of whatever and see if it picks up again or if it makes zero difference.