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1965 Type 1
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, my buddy has a 1972 1300 twin port which we're struggling with.

Initially the car would start and run, until it got hot and then it would start coughing and missing until it cut out and not start again.

So he changed the coil and HT leads, checked the points and the dizzy cap and rotor look fine. Ignition and Fuses are good.

Now he's getting no spark at all! Turns over fine and fuel is coming through.

Any ideas?
 

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Changing all the ignition components in one go doesn't tell you where the original problem was, would have been better to change one part at a time, and see which one resolves the issue.
Try re-fitting some of the old components one-by-one, this may help to trace the fault.
Rotor arm contains a resistor which can fail suddenly, (even on a new one), without any visible clues.
Test the continuity and resistance between the centre brass 'pad' and the brass tip, (or just replace the rotor arm).
 

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1965 Type 1
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't mention that he did the coil first and it didn't start after that. Then leads, same story. I'll pass on your thoughts, thanks!
 

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Work your way methodically. Is there 12v on the positive side of the coil. Check the negative side of the coil by putting the ignition on and turning the engine by hand to the timing mark. Are you getting 12v there? Then check you are getting a spark at the central ht lead etc
 

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1965 Type 1
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So working through the system. We have power on both sides of the coil. Power at the end of the central HT lead. The condenser and points are good. We put a spare rotor arm on and still no dice.

My head is saying, if power is going into the dizzy cap, but no further, then the problem is in there. All the contact points are clean and not excessively worn. So maybe the distributor itself is the issue?
 

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I’d say, dodgy cap or rotor arm regardless if they are new. Quality of some new parts suck. Check the wee spring bit in the centre of the cap is there. Once had a cap where it fell out.
 

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There are differences in the height of caps n rotors between OEM and aftermarket etc etc. Took me a while to figure out why mine wouldn't run with this issue. The OEM cap I had was taller than the aftermarket dizzy's cap n then OEM rotor wouldn't fit on aftermarket dizzy so was quite the ball ache to find the parts for this aftermarket 'OEM' dizzy.
I ended up getting fecked off n built a really old OEM dizzy n that solved the issue as used all OEM parts ;)
 
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