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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Between dodging hail showers i managed to get the second top mounting bolt undone, the slave cylinder unbolted and tied out of the way and the clips holding the coolant pipes in place undone to allow a little movement of the engine without straining any hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Got all 12 CV bolts undone. 6 were 6mm allen head and the others were a 12 sided star bit which meant i had to go rummaging for my CV tool set.
One of the oil seals in the output shaft had leaked gearbox oil into the CV so it was nice and manky when i undid the bolts. :rolleyes:
Bagged them up to stop my dogs filling the CVs with hair when they run under the van.

Gearbox front mount has had two of the bolts removed so it all just held in with the other 2 bolts and the 2 lower gearbox to engine bolts.
Hopefully it should just be a case of using my big trolley jack to take the weight of the box, lower it down a bit, support the front of the engine with straps from above and waggle the box off before lowering it down.

Front gearbox mounting rubber is a little cracked on one side. Not sure if it needs replacing or it'll do for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Finally got the box out this afternoon. :)
3 of the 4 mounting bolts came out ok but the 4th unscrewed until 2 threads from the end and popped the captive nut off the inside of the sealed box section crossmember so i had to grind the head off. :mad:
Hole is too big for an m8 rivnut but i'll hopefully just be able to drill another hole in the mount to line up with one of the other spare captive nuts.
Clutch looks ok, though no idea why theres a big rust mark on the cover.
Only a few bits of bodywork above where the box was need some rust curing and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Made a start cleaning the crap off the old box.
Loads of engine oil in the bellhousing so i'll replace the flywheel oil seal and pilot bearing in the crank when i check the endfloat.
I'm replacing the input shaft oil seal in the gearbox and the clutch release bearing, and will swap the input shaft across to the new box as its in better condition. The only problem is after removing the circlip i can't fit my hand past the diff to grab the connecting sleeve and slide it up so i can unscrew the input shaft. :rolleyes:
Removed the bellhousing and nosecone as they'll be swapped across and i removed the output flanges to save the plastic locking rings.

Planning on cleaning everything up and giving it some etch and a few coats of gold paint as i have a couple of spray cans left over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Spent the afternoon sitting in the sun cleaning the old oil and grease off the bellhousing and nosecone and giving them a coat of acid etch primer.
I also drilled a new hole in the gearbox mount to match up with one of the unused spare captive nuts.
I managed to remove the input shaft from the old box after realising that if i turned the diff 90 degrees there was enough space to fit my hand in to reach the connecting sleeve.:rolleyes:
 

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Great work dude :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
Its been really time consuming but its looking a lot better.
Gonna give it a couple of coats of gold paint when it finally arrives. Only going with gold as it was a lot cheaper than buying silver. It'll give the MOT guy something to smile about too. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
Got the clutch and flywheel removed in the cold today. Clutch looks like a pretty new Sachs one which is nice. Removed the flywheel oil seal which looked quite new and the big selection of shims. The O ring in the flywheel was like plastic not rubber and needed chipping out. :oops:
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I need to check the endfloat next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
I needed to remove the old pilot bearing from the nose of the crankshaft but without a puller to hand i had to look for another method.
A quick search on youtube showed videos that removed them using bread. Yep, bread. The stuff available in loafs you spread butter on. o_O
They say you pack the bearing with the bread and find a bolt the exact diameter of the bearing (i used my homemade clutch alignment tool).
170150810_10158711368370100_4009169234843584259_n.jpg


You then stick the bolt in the bearing and tap it with a hammer. Bit of tapping and the bearing starts getting pushed out.
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Bit more tapping...
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And voila, its out. :giggle:
Just need to pick the bread out the end of the crank now.
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You can fill the bearing with grease and use the same method but its a lot messier.
 

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Great work dude, just show's that you don't really "knead" the proper tool :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Painted the box gold today. Champagne gold, so a little lighter than i was after but ho hum.
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Fitted the new input shaft seal and the clutch release bearing too.
Been struggling to get the circlip fitted on the output flanges as the circlip pliers i have aren't man enough to do the job. Gonna have to see if someone local has a pair of pliers i can borrow.
 

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Looks great dude :cool: almost a shame to fit and hide it
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Got the new flywheel oil seal and o-ring installed then fitted the flywheel and clutch.
Just the gearbox and driveshafts to go back in now but the oil isn't gonna be here until friday. Its a lot easier to fill the box before its installed.
 
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