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Discussion Starter · #342 ·
Todays fun job. Replacing a blown wheel cylinder and contaminated brake shoes before cleaning up the drums and reassembling it all with a new fitting kit. Note the VW wheel chocks. ;)
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Eek.:oops:
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2 tons of muck cleaned off the backplate.
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Ratchet strap used to pull the first shoe back so the second spring could be attached.
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Thats better.
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Drum cleaned up inside and refitted and the system bled.
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Just the other side to do now.
 

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Great work and awh crap! You'll have that sorted in no time I'm sure, no rush on it is there? Enjoy the bus over the last of the summer :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #346 ·
Its my daily driver normally but it shat its pants the day after we moved to Wales and the bug still needs the speedo cable replacing and a bit of a tune up so i've been using this instead.
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I need to remove the rear trailing arm's pivot bolt to get to the rot but they're usually seized into the metal bit in the bush. Fingers crossed this one isn't. If it doesn't come free it'll be a case of chopping the bolt, removing the brakes and the whole of the rear suspension arm to replace the bush before rebuilding the mount. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
The nut on the pivot bolt isn't coming off anytime soon as the bolt head is so chewed up theres nothing to get a spanner or socket on so i'm gonna have to remove its head and hopefully knock the bolt through the bushing and out towards the centre of the van.
I can then hopefully repair or replace the mount and fit a new bolt and nut without having to strip the driveshaft, rear brakes and suspension trailing arm out.🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
Well damn. :mad:
I ground the head off the bolt, tried to knock it out through the bush and its well stuck. I thought i could use the nut on the other end to turn the bolt out but the nut came undone easily. :rolleyes:
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Other than stripping all the rear suspension and brakes out i think the only option is to either weld a nut to the end of the bolt, hope the heat frees it off enough to knock it out or drill it out. Its a 12mm bolt and may possibly be hardened. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
I've bought a set of cobalt drill bits to hopefully drill this bolt out. Or atleast drill it enough to allow it to be collapsed in on itself to free it.
Started cutting out the bit of rot in the inner arch around where the cavity wax bung was. Rot had spread into the seam slightly between the arch and 1/4 panel bottom so i'll need to remake that too. Not as bad as the other side though which required a large homemade section to be let in.

Moved the big bench into the corner of the garage with its tool board bolted to the wall. Still loads to sort out but as the weather is forecast rain for the next couple of days i should hopefully get some garage time.
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Discussion Starter · #353 ·
Finally managed to get the remains of the trailing arm pivot bolt out. :)
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Made this bit to replace the rotten wafer thin steel. The rest of the mount is still solid and the full 4mm thick so it getting repaired rather than replacing the complete mount.
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Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Got the broken rear brake pipe clip replaced this afternoon and as i'd opened the brake line i bled that corner. Pedal feels good now.
I also got the mount welded up and given a coat of red oxide.
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Just the bottom of the arch to weld back in and a small section on the bottom of the rear 1/4 and i can get it back on the road as my daily. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
Finally got everything painted and seam sealed. New pivot bolt copper anti seize greased to within an inch of its life and torqued up.
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Gravel is nearly 6" deep in places so not easy to get out the drive without it digging itself a hole. :rolleyes:
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Back brakes will need an adjustment i think as the new shoes bed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
Brake pedal went down too far when pressed and needed a pump to get the pedal back so i assumed air in the system as i'd adjusted the brakes when the new shoes and wheel cylinders were fitted. Bled around 1/2L through the back wheel cylinders with a few very small bubbles coming through. :unsure:
Pedal still crap so i jacked one back wheel off the ground at a time to see if there was any adjustment needed. Passengers side had a slight amount of drag when the wheel was spun (so about right) but the drivers side was so free spinning it was like the shoes were miles away from the drums.
I assume pressing the pedal moved the shoes someway towards the drums but not enough to really grab them so another pump was needed for them to make proper contact.
I popped the drum off and there was miles of adjustment needed. The manual says to measure the inside diameter of the drum and adjust the shoes so they are 1.5mm smaller diameter. These were nearly 5mm smaller. :rolleyes:
Not sure how i managed that when i adjusted them. Massive amounts of adjustment done and the drum refitted, pedal pressed a few times and handbrake yanked a few times and a test drive into the village showed a decent pedal again. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
Brakes are still good. (y)
Took the dogs out for a walk in the rain this morning. Nice refressing breeze though the temperature is still in the low 20s.
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The indicator tell tail light in the dashboard glows slightly with the engine running. Doesn't do it with just the ignition on though. Possibly a bad earth somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
200 miles on LPG at a cost of £35 vs 200 miles on 95ron unleaded at £48 vs 200 miles on super at £61.
Gonna advance the timing a few degrees as i've been told it'll allow it to run more optimally on LPG (or super) both of which have an octane rating of 99. I'm not sure whether having it running optimally will mean better MPG or slightly more power but for a few minutes work it's gotta be worth a shot.
She seems to prefer the super rather than the standard unleaded and feels more like it does running on LPG.
 
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