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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've got a 30hp engine in my 60 karmann ghia coupe..
Always been quite hard to start from cold-manual choke etc
But once started starts fine and runs great also...
Any ideas?
Tia
 

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Presuming it has 6 volt electrics. 60 year old wiring and connections could be suffering from excessive voltage drop. May be worth checking.
 

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More than likely crispy electrics and a well burnt out ign switch. If you look on RS components and otehr electrical supply places then you may be able to find a high current 6V relay and then this takes the strain off the ign switch. I used smaller ones on a customers semaphores and they worked far better afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies chaps, it's still 6v but turns over really well, always keep it on a trickle charger..
It's just from first start from cold, makes no difference if the manual choke is out or not, just takes a fair while to start, but once started it's fine an runs/drives great
 

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If its not electrical it might the new fuel, which has a tendancy to evaporate, so no fuel in the float chamber. You keep cranking which refills it, then it fires after you have pumped the throttle a number of times
 

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I have a 1974 1200 Beetle which only starts with difficulty after standing for long periods, but also often shortly after driving, if I Park the car and allow it to cool down completely.
It has always done this, (I've owned the car since 1983), even before 'unleaded' and 'E5' fuels were introduced, it is an annoyance I've learned to live with, but I do feel it has become worse more recently.
Hot starting, (after stopping the engine for just a few minutes), has never been a problem.
After the car has been standing for a long period, I have discovered that it will start easily, if I manually fill the float bowl with fuel, (just a squirt down the vent tube).
Clearly, somehow, the contents of the float bowl are escaping, causing the poor starting until cranking refills the bowl, (mechanical fuel pump), and I agree with Garrick Clark that evaporation is a likely cause.
I also suspect that immediately after stopping the engine, heat soaks into the carb. and expands the fuel, raising the level in the float bowl, causing the excess fuel to escape into the venturi and down the manifold, (where it will also evaporate). After it has all cooled down, the fuel level in the carb is too low ......
That's my theory, but can't think of a practical way to prevent heat soak into the carb after stopping the engine.
I know people will recommend an electric fuel pump which will overcome the need for cranking to re-fill the float bowl, but I also have a 1500 and a 1600 engine (also with mechanical pumps), which don't have this problem, so there must be a way to resolve it on the 1200, (just haven't found it yet).
Sorry, I'm only offering a theory rather than a solution, but will watch this thread with interest.
 

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Check the pump jet actually works. It needs to work as soon as the throttle is open. Not 2 or 3mm from a closed throttle. I often have to drill the pump jet slightly using micro drills to help on the initial start up of the engine, and to help it in general, what with the solex carb being nowhere near the heads. Everything was good when things where new, but there now ancient, the carb location wasn't the best from the start. This may not be your issue.
 

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Thanks for all the replies 👍
Will look into it over winter..
Also how's best to start it with the manual choke?
Same as any manual choke. If the engines dead cold then all the way out and a pump of the pedal. The warmer the weather it may not start on full choke so push in till it does fire or if it fires it'll idle high really quickly so slowly push choke in till it idles nicely.
 
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