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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
help please i am now on my 3rd gearbox reduction box set up i know i should go straight axel or irs but funds are a tadge short . the reduction boxes whine grind and fart the bus down the road i have only lowered the rear by 2 splines which i have been told should not be a problem but when i jack up the rear end and turn the wheel it feels notchy please help cus i want to use it not look at it
 

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im guessing this is whatmade a noise on mine the other week, like a squeeling raspy metal against metal vibration noise?? mines only done it once when i was going down a rather large hill but not done it since??... anyone got any info on straight axeling? ease of doing?? costs?
fanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that sounds like the one . glad its not only!!!! me and i dont think straight axeling is hard once you have all the parts kits are bout £400 but you have to find the gearbox for the job
 

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bit out of my budget at the moment.... anyone know if there very servicable?? spares??
anyone know how much and what type of oil they take??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you can buy service kits from status vw for about £12 per side inc gaskets and they take normal gearbox oil not that hard to do either !!!!!!!!!! but mine are still making a noise after that how many splines have you lowered your bus by at the back end ?
 

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just two splines, i was thinking that when mine started making a noise i had been going down a steep hill quite fast for 5-10 mins, im wondering if the oil level was low in one wether it might have sloped to the front of the box and the gearing dryed out for a second.... not done it since soo i might try topping up for now
 

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think you can stright axel for allot less than £400, (do you mean fitted incl box??!!)
a mate of mine wants me to do his 66, he's found a *kit* on ebay for £180 buy it now, comes with all bolts and plates, and a template to cut your springplates to suit,

for what your getting £180 is a fecking rip anyway... but its allot cheaper than the £400 quaoted above, i dunno if you ment fitted tho?

you can put any S/A beetle gearbox in too, and IIRC you just have to swap the nose cones???

try and go for the bigger CC gearboxes, 1500/1600 as they are even better at 60mph+ on the motorway for cruisng, well compared to reduction boxes
 

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cos you lowered 2 splines ,the oil in the red. boxes are draining back to the gearbox, you have been running with "dry" red boxes ,hence the noise,get rid of red. boxes or raise the back end.you dont need to buy a new gearbox if you want to straight axle,on a split all you have to do is "flip" the diff round,ask how to do it on this forum,hope this helps you.
 

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thought the oil in the red boxes was seprate from gearbox???? arnt you talking about the oil for the wheel bareings??
 

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the oil in the gearbox is the same oil as red boxes,connected by the axle tubes,lowering 2 splines puts the axle tube angle towards the gearbox ,you could be transfering oil from red box into axle tubes by the action of the oil running through the red box gears & "splashing " into the tubes,spose if you check red box oil levels frequently you may solve the problem,hope this helps.
 

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yep you can flip the differential so you can keep your box.
but
as far as i know only late split boxes are do-able.
once flipped you will still need bug axles n tubes and full brakes
then just post up for a springplate template and cut your springplates so
you can mount the bug axles.
you can use cheap short axles i thibk but have to use skinny 4 stud brakes which arent perfect.
but
wide 5 brakes axles are costly.
do a search on the forums, especially ssvc. theres lots of info.
plus i should have a springplate template soon.
im planning on finding a scrap bug and stripping the bits.
:D
 
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