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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening.

My 71 has had the heater channels replaced by the previous owner and one side has been installed out of alignment and is too high 馃檮

The door will hit the top of the channel and won't close. I've got some heavy duty Dansk channels that are now ready to go in along with inner quarters and probably A-post bottoms.

Dimensional data wise is this the only information available?
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Font Parallel


Looking at M&N how exactly is this measured? The underside of the roof rail is curved which would affect the distance depending on where you take the measurement? Or is it to the bottom of outside of the gutter lip?

If anyone has a body they could measure and maybe take some photos that would be a big help.

I have a set of doors (scabby but solid) which I'll be double checking everything with.

What's an average gap between the bottom of the door going over the seal face of the channel?

Any help would be great!

Cheers
 

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Measurements 'M' and 'N' are taken at the rear quarter panel end of the door opening, the measurement is 'Internal' between the lowest edge of the roof rail and the outer top edge of the heater channel. The German version of that drawing has a slightly more detailed description :
Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood


Before removing the old heater channel fit some bracing between the door A and B pillars, in such a way that you can fit the door and adjust if necessary.
It is difficult to measure how much of the door bottom overlaps the heater channel seal face, but the distance between the bottom edge of the door outer skin and the bottom lip of the heater channel should be exactly the same as the bottom edge of the rear quarter panel and the bottom lip of the heater channel, i.e. 4 cm.
 

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I know your pain. I have a similar issue with a heater channel cut out and the bottom of the A and B pillar are gone, along with where the channel attaches to the front bulkhead and rear crossmember which are there but distorted by rust.

I have that pic above and an unmolested 1302 that I can take measurements from - so I think what I'll do first is tack the A pillar bottom in as near as I can - by making a template from the other car and what I assume will be hours of offering up and nibbling a bit more metal away until it fits, then tack in the channel using various measurements and then hang the door and see what happens.

I do also need to repair the lower edge of the door, and I'm aware the channels may not be quite the same shape as the originals, so I'm really not looking forward to juggling it all around.

Oh, plus I need to make sure the bolts in the channel line up with the pan, and I just remembered that the metal around the upper hinge mount on the A pillar is also split! Joy 馃ぃ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Measurements 'M' and 'N' are taken at the rear quarter panel end of the door opening, the measurement is 'Internal' between the lowest edge of the roof rail and the outer top edge of the heater channel. The German version of that drawing has a slightly more detailed description :
View attachment 304749

Before removing the old heater channel fit some bracing between the door A and B pillars, in such a way that you can fit the door and adjust if necessary.
It is difficult to measure how much of the door bottom overlaps the heater channel seal face, but the distance between the bottom edge of the door outer skin and the bottom lip of the heater channel should be exactly the same as the bottom edge of the rear quarter panel and the bottom lip of the heater channel, i.e. 4 cm.
Thanks. knowing the extra information regarding the measurements is really helpful. 馃憤
 

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I don't know if this will be of any help but this is my thread on my fight with the doors and gaps on my beetle
I didn't bother with any measurements I just made the doors fit and close as nicely as I could
 
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