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Best Unleaded Conversion???

5620 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Peter
My '72 bay still needs an additive as it has not been converted to run on unleaded fuel. What are the options to convert it to U/L as 1 that I saw in a mag quoted between £300 - £500 to do?!! :eek:

Phil
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No unleaded conversion nessecary.

Your engine should run happily on straight unleaded anyway. I've used nothing but standard unleaded since '94 with no problems.

They're trying to sell you something you already have.

Dave.
ive got a filter thing that goes on my fuel line and it replaces the lead. cost 5 fiver. cant remeber where i got it.
dave
Thanks Dave,

I was under the impression that straight UL could cause damage to the Heads with long term use and no conversion?

Phil
I think the fact that petrol has improved over time and especially recently means that the heads wont be damaged by poor petrol and no lead, my beetle runs fine on unleaded without additive, however I do add some from time to time but if your worried about it use unleaded and just add some lead substitute for longer journeys.
For the sake of £300+ its not worth changing the heads etc if thats the only reason your considering it (without an upgrade from say a 1300 to a 1600).
VW heads have been using unleaded since '68.
mad baja said:
ive got a filter thing that goes on my fuel line and it replaces the lead. cost 5 fiver. cant remeber where i got it.
dave
You'd have been better of putting an extra fiver of unleaded in the tank ;) These things are a waste of time, designed to make people money from those that worry. How do they replace the lead??

As said VW have made the heads to run unleaded since 68 because of the US market. Heads before then will propbably run OK due to hardning of the valve seats from the use of leaded petrol.

I've been using it for years with not problems

OP
Set your valve clearances exactly correct now, when you service the rest of the engine, and recheck them every 6000mls (at the recommended service interval) Any problems will show up well in advance of anything serious happening that could possibly be caused by the use of unleaded.ie your valves will need constant adjustment if there's anything nasty happening. Now use unleaded like everyone else does.
Thanks guys, feel happier knowing that :cool:
seabreeze2 said:
Thanks Dave,

I was under the impression that straight UL could cause damage to the Heads with long term use and no conversion?

Phil
Only single ports need additive or real leaded. Many SP owners get away with running unleaded cos there is a huge build up of lead on the valve seats from 30 years of use - it takes a very long time to wear off.

Twin ports are all unleaded ready and have been since the late 60s.

In line gadgets and pellets packs to go in the tank are all a swindle.
M.I.B said:
Only single ports need additive or real leaded. Many SP owners get away with running unleaded cos there is a huge build up of lead on the valve seats from 30 years of use - it takes a very long time to wear off.....Twin ports are all unleaded ready and have been since the late 60s.....
There is no such differentiation between SP and DP heads. The lead build up, from any length of time, can be removed in the space of one tank of gas.

European Bugs were not fully protected against unleaded use, from production, until 1976. The "1968" info is based solely on US models. What people need to be wary of is using poor quality valves. Providing new 'proper' quality valves have been used, sometime in the last 30 years, then there will be no associated problems. For this reason, there is little to be worried about.
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