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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My girlfriends bug is insistent on cutting out at round abouts, traffic lights and anywhere i have to stop, even though it is supposedly warmed up.
It has only started doing this recently, it still starts up first time and will stay idle for 5 mins or so and then dies.

Anyone got any ideas on what might be wrong?
 

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dodgy float in the carb flooding the engine? Take the filter off and see if fuel squirts in or over flowing.

Carb icing?

Check the manifold once warmed up just underneath the carb is it ice cold?


Airleak? Check the carb gaskets and manifold boots and end pieces-cyliner heads.

Also description of the engine would be good...single or twin carb, single or twin port, what air cleaner etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers, i did notice the other day that the carb manifold was wet and cold whereas the rest of the engine was warmed up.

it's a 1600tp, single carb with a cone type filter on top.
 

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Are there any other symptons? Does the oil light flash or come on prior to cutting out? When was the car last serviced? Could be the jets in the carb, when the car is idling it will have enough fuel from the choke and blocked jets to keep it at a very low amount of revs, however when the car is being driven it doesnt have enough fuel due to the jets.

I would recommend giving the car a good service unless it was done recently, new rotor arm, dizzy cap, plugs, points, condensor, clean the air filter/replace and also check that there are no leaks in the carb or vacuum pipes.
What engine is in the beetle? What ignition set up? Does it smoke?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1600tp with standard ignition bar a 009. no smoking. it was running fine up until about last week. just started playing up.
 

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whitearmy61 said:
the carb manifold was wet and cold whereas the rest of the engine was warmed up.

it's a 1600tp, single carb with a cone type filter on top.
Well there's your problem(s)

Wet and cold carb & condensation on the manifold below the carb means carb icing, and a cone type air filter will make the problem worse.

The stock carb is warmed by 2 methods -

1 - The heater "riser" tube that lets hot exhaust gas warm up the inlet manifold. These often clog up with carbon over the years, or sometimes people fit aftermarket exhausts and don't drill the holes through to enable it to work.

2 - The hot air supply pipe that allows the carb to draw hot air instead of cold. You'll need to upgrade your cone filter to a stock system. They don't look as shiny as a cone filter, but they do work all year round in the UK climate.

Now that the air tempratures are dropping and there's humidity in the air, carb icing will start to manifest itself. In a month or so there will be posts like this almost daily I expect.

The 009 won't be helping it to run any smoother either, but they don't cause carb icing by themselves.

Dave.
 

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It may also be worth checking the fuel cut off valve on the carb, if it has failed, or worked loose, or the electrical connection has come off, it will stop the engine when you lift off the throttle.
 
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