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I have rejected several of these in the past due to incorrect finish grinding - inspect carefully before fitting and be aware that side clearance changes every time the shaft is removed due to clearance of the bolt holes. It is quite easy to inadvertently end up with little or no clearance.
 
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Getting the rocker tips to be in the correct position on the valve top is difficult. You will probably need some extra shims of various sizes as the shims on the kit aren't a good combination of thicknesses. I've had to machine rockers to get the correct side play, many times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your help everyone.
Is there a better set to go with?
I have two brand new stock rocker shafts compete but have been told that they can not be used with an engle 110 cam, is this true?
 

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In my opinion... No. A 110 isnt a radical lift cam. The standard rocker wavy washers break sometimes...maybe. A Solid rocker shaft kit eliminates the wavy washers. A better kit is the ones with the blue or red anodised centre spacer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In my opinion... No. A 110 isnt a radical lift cam. The standard rocker wavy washers break sometimes...maybe. A Solid rocker shaft kit eliminates the wavy washers. A better kit is the ones with the blue or red anodised centre spacer.
Sorry are you saying I can or can't use the stock rocker set up?
 

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That's a better kit. Shimming takes a long time to get right. But worth it. The above kit is pre built. It doesn't mean it's a bolt on affair. It still needs the rocker tip to valve tip checking on all 8 valves. And the pushrod to pushrod tube clearance at full lift needs checking.
 

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Sorry are you saying I can or can't use the stock rocker set up?
You cannot, and don't try less than 7 thou' clearance on a street motor. Also beware the self-destructing repro Porsche-style adjusters.

Anything other than a stock cam requires bolt-up shafts.

The stock springs will break; in under 3000 miles on a W100 when I tried it as an experiment.
You do know that the nickname in the trade for Scat is "Scrap", right? Not as good as Johnny's Speed and Chrome though, who soon became known as Johnny's Peel and Groan. I bought a sweatshirt from their shop in LA which lasted way longer than their VW parts.
 

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You cannot, and don't try less than 7 thou' clearance on a street motor. Also beware the self-destructing repro Porsche-style adjusters.

Anything other than a stock cam requires bolt-up shafts.

The stock springs will break; in under 3000 miles on a W100 when I tried it as an experiment.
You do know that the nickname in the trade for Scat is "Scrap", right? Not as good as Johnny's Speed and Chrome though, who soon became known as Johnny's Peel and Groan. I bought a sweatshirt from their shop in LA which lasted way longer than their VW parts.
Bug71, don't take this remark about SCAT as anything other than just his opinion.
 

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Bug71, don't take this remark about SCAT as anything other than just his opinion.
What's 40 years' experience got to do with anything, eh? ;)
Please don't think I'm singling out Scat - I've had junk from all the 'big names' except VW themselves. Caveat Emptor.
 
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New aftermarket parts these days are more often than not un fit for purpose. The sales guys no it too due to there no quibble return policies.
 
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I built a motor last year using all aftermarket parts. (Like every part). It was an absolute nightmare. The hours it took to do was outrageous. I doubt I'll do another 1. In fact I know I won't
 
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What's 40 years' experience got to do with anything, eh? ;)
Please don't think I'm singling out Scat - I've had junk from all the 'big names' except VW themselves. Caveat Emptor.
I respect that you have that much experience. I've 30 years myself and all I'm saying is that I've found SCAT over the years to be top quality. The 2276 I currently have in my bus is all SCAT internals - forged crank, H-beams, cam, lifters etc. This is the third incarnation of the motor that the crank and rods have been in and every time it gets torn down, they are mint. The motor regularly sees 7k rpm too so it doesn't get babied. It must say something for SCAT that they provide the cranks and rods for NASCAR. Admittedly, there are some of their lower end parts that I wouldn't use but generally, I find that SCAT and CB to name another are pretty damn good, in my opinion.
 

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Never had an issue with scat or bugpack, but empi is a brand I wont put inside my engine or anywhere near my drivetrain. Empi usually looks pretty good for cheap but I dont want my life depending on the quality. YMMV

As to the OP, yes those will work with stock rockers but as stated above, getting the lateral adjustment will take some effort. If you have the time and patience, it will pay off. Just remember to write down your shims and measurements for the next time you take it apart.
 
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