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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so some more questiosn from me. its all happeneing in my engine and its seems to be non stop probs now its getting colder.

Right a short while ago I posted up that on cold starting the car started and ticked over fine. but the second you touched the accelerator it wouldn't idle anymore and would just cut out until it was fully warm then it would just about tick over. We checked all the bits everyone said to check and they all seemed ok so put it on the emmision pooter in the MOT place ( its really handy knowing an MOT tester) and set up the carb on that. Its a 34-PICT fitted in a stock 1600 GT beetle engine which as far as I know is a twin port.

All was well with the world . . .untill last weekend. A hack down to Devon and back saw her starting to do it again but this time when she was warm. Again she starst and runs fine on cold but now wont idle properly. So just in case the carb a bit shitty I've taken the air filter off and run some redex through on full chat to clear any crap in there and the smoke coming out the back suggested that she was a bit bunged up. But I want to cover all the bases just in case that aint sorted it out.

I was hoping to replace the carb in the future with £300 ( an accumulation of saving a bit , birthday money and early christmas present) being my budget limit which kind fo narrows down the field a bit for me but as I'm unemployed at the mo I really gotta go very careful with my cash. SO here come the questions:

With £300 being the limit what you suggest to go for to get a slight increase in power and a good MPG ?

I know it would be cheaper to rebuild and refurbish the current stock one. So would it be worth buying a performance carb. And would rebuilding the carb sort the prob out. Would it be better to get a replcement stock 34 PICT one ?

Amd finally this really is the dillema one for me. I have the opportunity to get my hands on a single 44 IDF with manifold and is all there for very minimal cash and its got a spare set of jets. Could this be a wicked option and will it fit me twin ports or do I need to get some sort of manifold for it.

Thanks everyone in advance for all your help
 

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i would go for either weber 32 ict's or dellorto 32 frd's, both these come into your budget and will give you a good boost in perfomance and decent mpg if driven carefully. avoid the 44 idf as when fittd to a single manifold (to long) they dont run great throught the rev range and tend to be a bit thirsty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that doesn't sound too good for the 44's

I cant find any 32 ICT' anywhere either only 34's and there £50 quid out me price range :(
 

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sorry mate i meant 34's but your right the price has jumped up a bit (its a while since i looked).
however the dell 32's are £295 and are a better carb than the webers in my opinion.
 

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Djbombscare said:
...... but as I'm unemployed at the mo I really gotta go very careful with my cash. SO here come the questions:

I know it would be cheaper to rebuild and refurbish the current stock one. And would rebuilding the carb sort the prob out. Would it be better to get a replcement stock 34 PICT one ?
Surely in your current situation it would make sense to overhaul the carb you have, thoroughly and properly, for around £15-20.00, or even pay someone to do it professionally if you lack the knowledge and equipment, and save your performance carbs for a later date when you can really afford them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah Moby your right and thats what my brain says to do and the right thing to do. . my heart says something else, which is a pain.

Do you think that rebuilding the carb will sort it out ?

And I was kind of thinking that maybe if I find I need new parts they might add up a bit
 

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Djbombscare said:
Do you think that rebuilding the carb will sort it out ?

And I was kind of thinking that maybe if I find I need new parts they might add up a bit
Yes, it will, but it needs to done very thoroughly with cleaner and compressed air, and you need to understand exactly what you're doing and what each part does. Apart from that you just need to be methodical and clean because the smallest particle of dirt in a tiny jet drilling can affect running. The engine needs to be serviced properly before you can readjust any carb. ie plugs points timing tappets etc all need to be correctly set and in good condition and the airfilter air valves need to be working correctly, along with the inlet manifold pre-heat pipes. Most likely all the parts you will need will be an overhaul kit and an aerosol can of brake cleaner. I say brake cleaner because I've yet to find a carb cleaner that works anywhere near as well as brake cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
coooool and thanks moby I think thats probably going to be the way to go for now. Its the best option cash wise really
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hope you dont mind me asking your all guru's to me.

I have had a bit of a proper look at the carb and I think I may have sussed the problem with it.

on the end of the chamber which contains the butterfly. (Ok my apologies for the non technical way I'll be explaining this) There is a brass thing that is sort of shaped like a key. I can see that it has slots in it which the throttle stop screw slots into.

when the key thing is on the lowest notch the butterfly valve is fully open nearly vertical. Thing is it doesn't really rest on the bottom notch but rather the next one up. Now I dunno if this could be the automatic choke but she does run and idle ok on start up when the chokes kicked in.

What I have just found from having a play around in the back is that after letting it run for a while revving it a bit etc. what happens is that the key shaped thing doesn't really move away form that position. it just stays there. So that the throttle screw thing always returns back to that notch. Whne I move it manually and click it to say the top notch it stays there ok for a while but the second you move the throttle again the key moves back so that the throttle screw is back in the one notch up position. which in turn means that the idle starts to die and splutter splutter off.

So have I found the route of the problem or just discovered something that should be happening

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
moby you are like the yoda of carbs

I've been scouting around the techie forum and seen the threads, So I'm using them to educate me.

Thanks soooooo much
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrgggghhhhhhhhhh I have found my hell and its got 34 PICT written all over it.


I changed the auto choke on it and we reset it to the settings in moby's diagram and had to adjust it out a teeny bit further to get it to idle. but now the bloody thing kangaroos and feels what i'd call bubbley under acceleration from low revs. high revs are fine but lows as spluttery as a drowning spluttery thing.


its doin me feckin head right in grrrrrrrrrr.

me old man suggested it could be the points gap but theres to much air getting and to start again but check the hoses for splits first.

does that sound about right.

I feel like i've got soooo close but oughta give in and get a new carb.

any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
that was me dads suggestions.


I've done is replace the choke unit and we started from what was on that diagram and the haynes manual to try and reset the idle and mix to get it to tick over.

So I gotta do those other things
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well I've tried everything and have given up now.

Points are fine, timing is fine, tried every possible setting i possibley can on the blooming carb so have had to bite the bullet, give up and let a proper mechanic look at it.

I hate being beaten but sometimes you just gotta know when to walk away aint ya
 

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Points are good, what about condition of the plugs? Distributor cap? Condensor? Rotor arm? All plug leads nice and tight?

You really need to get everything else right before tackling the carb, but that's ok because it's really cheap to do.

Valve adjustment is free and all the things above are less than £20. Take the intake manifold off, replace the rubber boots at the ends and clean out the manifold preheat tube which will be gunged up with carbon.

Bear in mind that any other carb like a weber will need setting up on a rolling road, so don't forget to add that to your budget!
 

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have you overhauled the carb yet? did you adjust the new choke unit so the butterfly is compleatly open when warmed up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah I've done the plugs leads condensor choke unit and points they're all new. Rotor arm is fine as well. I aint replaced it with new as it looked brand new anyway. Blew through the vacum hose to see if there were any leaks and it was all solid.

I'm completely dumbfounded and I just cant get the carb to set right. It either wont idle or if you get it to idle it wont pull in low revs.

So marked up where the distributor cap was and adjusted it slighltly reset the carb again to see if I could make a difference take it out for a road test - still no joy. That was preety much all day Sunday and Monday and still nothing. Its 90% there but its still wrong. I aint got the tools to get timing exact or set up the carb exact so its the start from scratch, set the revs find the highest pitch on the C screw and then wind it in until the revs drop etc etc and take it out for a test drive.

So I've given up and had a word with some locals at the local club and they've all recommended a guy who's really good So had a chat with him and he's coming out to sort it all out.

I decided not going down the weber/performance carb route. Cos firstly the car been lowered a lot and the ride is bumpy as Bumpy Mc Bump form the clan McBump in Bumpshire so more speed aint gonna help matters there. And secondly I really wanna keep her as standard as possible I think.
 
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