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For £9 a go, I'd stick a spare innertube in my pocket and buy a piece of cake with the change.
Cycling Thread
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Yes, they work but if you keep an eye out you can get a much better deal than that. A friend buys his in bulk from Lidl - it's about half that price but they only have it in a couple of times a year so you have to check regularly.
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Well, after mentioning on other threads that I'd not been on a bike in 2021 and how selling off some of my excess bikes was quite liberating, yesterday was a mived day. I bought a singlespeed/fixie, that needed a bit of work, tinkered with it for five minutes, then had a spin around the block.
There's no obvious name on it. I'll have a look for small stickers or embossing later, but from the colours, I reckon it's a Muddy Fox. No need to worry about the paintwork or the light-fingered fraternity with this one.
I'll probably keep it for a couple of months, then move on to pastures new.
There's no obvious name on it. I'll have a look for small stickers or embossing later, but from the colours, I reckon it's a Muddy Fox. No need to worry about the paintwork or the light-fingered fraternity with this one.
I'll probably keep it for a couple of months, then move on to pastures new.
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A quick question.
The bike I got up there ^^^^, one of the problems was the freewheel not working. I took it apart, hoping to reseat the pawls. Unfortunately, one is broke and the circlip is bent.
I went to the LBS, he doesn't sell parts that small (I was chancing my arm, hoping he'd throw me a knackered one, to make one out of two
), he also isn't too hot on ordering new parts, it'll be a couple of weeks.
Internet parts it is! There's a few different sizes (mm's not teeth).
Anyone know where I'm taking the measurements from?
Are all the threads the same?
Photo attached, if it helps.
Cheers.
The bike I got up there ^^^^, one of the problems was the freewheel not working. I took it apart, hoping to reseat the pawls. Unfortunately, one is broke and the circlip is bent.
I went to the LBS, he doesn't sell parts that small (I was chancing my arm, hoping he'd throw me a knackered one, to make one out of two
), he also isn't too hot on ordering new parts, it'll be a couple of weeks.Internet parts it is! There's a few different sizes (mm's not teeth).
Anyone know where I'm taking the measurements from?
Are all the threads the same?
Photo attached, if it helps.
Cheers.
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15,807 Posts
Right, I think it's got a 34mm internal diameter.
I keep seeing 1/2×1/8 and 1/2×3/32 bandied about, chain size at a guess.? What's the best way to check what I have, without specialist bike tools? I've got a vernier somewhere.
Threads, are there different types or even L/H or R/H ones?
Am I overthinking this?
I keep seeing 1/2×1/8 and 1/2×3/32 bandied about, chain size at a guess.? What's the best way to check what I have, without specialist bike tools? I've got a vernier somewhere.
Threads, are there different types or even L/H or R/H ones?
Am I overthinking this?
Probably
Single speed bikes usually have a 1/8" thick cogs and therefore need a 1/8" chain. If it uses a derailleur then the cog thickness is 3/32" and need a thinner chain - which is more expensive. All chains for the last 90+ years or so are 1/2" between pins.
Freewheels are usually BSA threaded.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/search/?term=single speed freewheel
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It's makes more sense when someone else types what you're thinking.Probably
Single speed bikes usually have a 1/8" thick cogs and therefore need a 1/8" chain. If it uses a derailleur then the cog thickness is 3/32" and need a thinner chain - which is more expensive. All chains for the last 90+ years or so are 1/2" between pins.
Freewheels are usually BSA threaded.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/search/?term=single speed freewheel
Right.
All I need to do is measure the thickness of the cog to take care of the 1/8 V's 3/32. (Or just get the thin one
).....but you know it'll be 1/8, so stop procrastinating.Go with 34mm.
Ignore everything else.
Thanks.
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In case it's of use to anyone:
If the single freewheel doesn't have lugs for a special tool, it's not meant to be reused.
Use a drift to undo the cover (L/H thread).
Lift the cover and sprocket off. (Watch the ball bearings go everywhere).
Use a set of stilsons on what's left to unscrew.
If the single freewheel doesn't have lugs for a special tool, it's not meant to be reused.
Use a drift to undo the cover (L/H thread).
Lift the cover and sprocket off. (Watch the ball bearings go everywhere).
Use a set of stilsons on what's left to unscrew.
Anyone suggest a good starter MTB?
been looking for a cheap mountain bike new, but second hand would do.
been looking for a cheap mountain bike new, but second hand would do.
a bit of of road, but nothing extreme, hard tail is fine
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15,807 Posts
I probably should've asked what the budget is too. As you've put cheap in the description, I'd suggest second hand.
Rather than looking for a brand, look at the components.
A matching groupset would be great. As a minimum, look for something along the Shimano Tiagra (or possibly 105 on a rigid) lines for gears. Deore XT (or LX) for brakes. Hopefully, someone, or a quick Google, will bring up similar kit for other brands. Nothing particularly wrong with lower spec kit, but it will be heavier and not as smooth. Higher level is lighter, smoother, more expensive and will wear out quicker.
Matching wheels. Any buckles, leave it, unless you can chip the price to replace. Decent wheel builders/repairers aren't cheap.
Frame and forks, check for damage and weight, but get what feels right.
As for brands, you can't really go wrong with Specialized, Trek, etc. Norco are decent. Personally, I'm a massive Kona fan, I've got four.😁
Have a look at CX/gravel bikes too. Even if you don't like drops, you can switch to a flat bar without too much expense.
Hopefully, someone else, whose bikes don't come from the 90's, will chip in with a modern take on bikes.😁
Good luck.
Rather than looking for a brand, look at the components.
A matching groupset would be great. As a minimum, look for something along the Shimano Tiagra (or possibly 105 on a rigid) lines for gears. Deore XT (or LX) for brakes. Hopefully, someone, or a quick Google, will bring up similar kit for other brands. Nothing particularly wrong with lower spec kit, but it will be heavier and not as smooth. Higher level is lighter, smoother, more expensive and will wear out quicker.
Matching wheels. Any buckles, leave it, unless you can chip the price to replace. Decent wheel builders/repairers aren't cheap.
Frame and forks, check for damage and weight, but get what feels right.
As for brands, you can't really go wrong with Specialized, Trek, etc. Norco are decent. Personally, I'm a massive Kona fan, I've got four.😁
Have a look at CX/gravel bikes too. Even if you don't like drops, you can switch to a flat bar without too much expense.
Hopefully, someone else, whose bikes don't come from the 90's, will chip in with a modern take on bikes.😁
Good luck.
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10,039 Posts
I've just bought a new bike. Spent 18 months thinking about it and bemoaning the availabilty of bikes generally and thus the lack of any bargains. Eventually found a bike I liked that ticked all the boxes and was in stock, and reduced a bit so I thought I should stop procrastinating.
Is it any good? No idea ... unpacked it, sorted it out and hung it up waiting for summer Its a De Rosa Idol.
Is it any good? No idea ... unpacked it, sorted it out and hung it up waiting for summer
Its a De Rosa Idol.4461 - 4480 of 4532 Posts
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