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I remember looking at those forks a couple of years ago. I have the 3kg cheapy coil spring suspension forks on my bike, and upgrading those would probably be a waste of money, so rigid forks make sense for the type of riding I do. I expect the 2kg weight saving will more than offset having no suspension. I was put off by there being no reviews, other than people saying they wouldn't trust no-name chinese carbon parts, and keyboard experts saying that carbon can just suddenly let go, unlike metal which will start to give before you get killed to death by it.

What do you think of them in the flesh?
They look good quality to me. Although that can be deceptive with this material.

I too searched the web for reviews. I found a Toseek review on YouTube that gives a general overview.

For failures, cheap and expensive carbon can fail catastrophically it seems. Focussing on forks, it seems that fully carbon is stronger than carbon bonded to an aluminium steerer.
Having sad that, even the expensive ‘Niner’ forks have had failures. Also production forks will generally have 1 1/5” lower race. Mine is 1 1/8th top and bottom, so must be inherently weaker I think.

Anyhow, I won’t be doing any serious off road on these. Just bimbling and no drop offs. :)

p.s. I used a longer Cane Creek steerer plug for more support for the stem clamping.

I’ll collate and post the reviews, failures and successes that I found later. :)
 

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Bike packing with quality Niner carbon forks. Great looking bike with Titanium frame:


Toseek carbon fork overview:



$300 Ali Express carbon bike failure… 😃



Java fork failing under braking (further down the thread):


Generic Chinese fork failure under braking:


Just for balance, I’ve had steel forks bend on me and I’ve also used my full carbon road bike on light trails without issue. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4,503 ·
Pics of the forks. Gloss carbon underneath, over-sprayed with a translucent matt black into a fade of solid matt black.



View attachment 299591
Cool bike, I have a similar thing - updated late 90s bike with carbon rigid forks and dirt jump tyres. Perfect for the sort of stuff I do.
How easy was the disc conversion? I've wondered about doing the same on mine.
 

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Cool bike, I have a similar thing - updated late 90s bike with carbon rigid forks and dirt jump tyres. Perfect for the sort of stuff I do.
How easy was the disc conversion? I've wondered about doing the same on mine.
Cheers! Get some pics up! :D

For the rear I used a A2Z DM-UNI adapter. Although it’s universal, it’s not a perfect fit due to my bulky aluminium frame. The clamping part is fine. It’s where it rests on the frame it comes up too short, so I need to lengthen it.
Cost wise… in hindsight, I could have just bought a new bike, but I like the frame. New wheels, forks, brake levers & calipers, headset, disc adapter, hydraulic bleed tools all adds up. I also binned the Grip Shifts while I was there and got new tires. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4,505 ·
Cheers! Get some pics up! :D

For the rear I used a A2Z DM-UNI adapter. Although it’s universal, it’s not a perfect fit due to my bulky aluminium frame. The clamping part is fine. It’s where it rests on the frame it comes up too short, so I need to lengthen it.
Cost wise… in hindsight, I could have just bought a new bike, but I like the frame. New wheels, forks, brake levers & calipers, headset, disc adapter, hydraulic bleed tools all adds up. I also binned the Grip Shifts while I was there and got new tires. :)
Ah ok, I figured it would all add up a bit. I've been on the fence about the whole hydraulic brakes thing anyway, due to cable brakes being so much more easily home serviceable.

My bike. 1998(IIRC) Litespeed Obed. Titanium frame, carbon fork, 1x10 gears. Weighs about 9 kilos. Though I tend to use the gravel bike more, this is great for trips to the mountains. I'm not chucking myself off cliffs on it obviously, just riding forest tracks.

Bicycle Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Wheel Bicycle wheel
Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Land vehicle
 

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Ah ok, I figured it would all add up a bit. I've been on the fence about the whole hydraulic brakes thing anyway, due to cable brakes being so much more easily home serviceable.

My bike. 1998(IIRC) Litespeed Obed. Titanium frame, carbon fork, 1x10 gears. Weighs about 9 kilos. Though I tend to use the gravel bike more, this is great for trips to the mountains. I'm not chucking myself off cliffs on it obviously, just riding forest tracks.

View attachment 299736 View attachment 299737
Very cool! Always liked the Litespeed frames! 😃
 

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Anyone own a Whyte road or gravel bike? Ideally the Dorset.

I'm thinking of reducing the fleet (no, really I am😁). My thinking is one frame and two sets of wheels.

I've been offered a Dorset to base it round. The actual bike is currently set up for audaxing. Has a specialist rear rack, mudguards, an inflatable seat (weird), handbuilt wheels, including a dynamo front hub, that powers the lights (included) and a USB charging point.

Some of the kit will come straight off and I'd want to buy a set of CX specific wheels for the majority of the time and use the wheels currently on it for the road, with or without the lights.

I did want a 1x set up, but it's a nice bike and a double up front isn't the end of the world.

Good idea or am I buying a commuter bike to off-road?

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4,509 ·
Don't know anything about a Dorset, but I did have a similar idea about one bike with two sets of wheels once before. It seemed like ti was going to be problematic getting two rear clusters set up on the same bike to have the gears wrok properly.
The inflatable seat sounds fascinating!
 

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I've put a bit if thought into the two sets of wheels.

If I use disc brakes, it takes rim width out of the equation, so long as the brake discs are identical.✔

Regarding the rear cassette. I'll run the same number of gears on both wheels and use the same manufacturer throughout, probably Shimano. ✔

If the starter bike is a cx/gravel bike, it should have the largest rear sprocket, so a closer ratio second (road) cassette shouldn't affect the chain length or rear derailleur. I might even be get away with a one tooth less on the smallest gear. ✔

Inflatable seat. The rear, where the sit bones rest is padded as normal. The thinner tongue(?) inflates to your requirement, via a removable ball pump under the seat. My mate did the NC500, as an audax, on it and highly recommends it.
 

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Link to an Inflatable seat:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4,512 ·
With the two sets of wheels thing, I was thinking more along the lines of wear on the chain and sprockets being different between the two sets, so they wouldn't bed in so well as when only used on one set. I dunno....probably overthinking it. I imagine if you can get the side to side offset near as damnit, then it'll work.

That saddle is a quite a thing. Looks good. Comfy at least.
 

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We discussed that too.

The lines should be same, the sprockets are in the same relative place, albeit with a slight height difference.

The wear between cassettes, providing you do occasionally change the wheels shouldn't be any more of an issue than the wear on a single cassette, between the two or three sprockets you mainly use, against the wear on the outer ones you rarely use. Possibly even less, if you change the wheels often and keep an eye on chain wear.
 

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Went out for an off-road spin on Wednesday evening and binned it after a couple of k. I was going down an old cart track, York paving, mossy, muddy, wet, etc, my front end went, I thought I'd managed to get it back, but I ran out of path and the front dropped into a ditch.....closely followed by me. Minor cuts to the knee and head, bit of a sore neck, pride took a bruising, the bike is fine. Managed the rest of the ride with piss-taking ringing in my ears. Resolved to sell some more of my fleet and buy a new-ish gravel type bike, that can take bigger tyres and has disc brakes.😁
 

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On Sunday I picked up my latest bike. I'm hoping this is the one that I base my; one bike, two sets of wheels, project around. I give you my On One Dirty Disco, it's a 52cm, carbon frame, with a 105 groupset, apart from the TRP Spyre disc brakes.

Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle wheel rim


I picked it up and took it straight to the moors for a test. It was hell! The set up is slightly too big, spds still on it and slicks have no place whatsoever on moorland tracks and loose gravel. It has the potential to be a blast though, it just needs a few minor adjustments and set of off-road tyres. Once sorted, I intend to run for a couple of months, then hopefully get my hands on a set of 650b's and see how they go.
 

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Today I was cycling and a heard an annoying sound as the wheel went round.
When stopped at the lights, I checked and it was a dreaded drawing pin that was pinned into my tyre.
Im sure I should have left well alone but like the wally that I am.... i pulled it out and effectively unplugged the very hole it was blocking

I heard a hiss of air and thought game over. (And sodding typical I didn’t have my puncture repair kit on me) so turned back and went home and was gonna see if limp back on whatever air is left.
Oddly.... the tyre didn’t deflate. It got me home, rose very well and even after I got home, I pumped it right up and it has been fine without any type of puncture repair.

Can anyone understand what went on / happened?
 

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In the past.... any hole has meant all the air coming out and making it impossible to cycle.

This morning it was “low” but not remotely flat. I pumped it back up again and did 16 miles (carrying puncture kit and pump incase) and it has been absolutely fine.

so what do ya reckon? Teeeeeeny tiiiiiiiiiny minuscule hole?
 
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