Volkszone Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, help needed sil vous plait.

I have my 1600TP engine out of my 71 Westy at the mo as the clutch was slipping and juddering.

Looks like the crank oil seal is the culprit - do I need a proper VW or silicone job for 5 times the money or is a £3 one OK?. Clutch is knackered too, but flywheel looks fine, no blueing, seems straight.

Next winter I'm planning to mildly blow and fuel inject the engine so was going to do a few necessaries now. I'm hoping for 100bhp so was thinking of a 200mm stage 1 Kennedy pressure plate (how much??? :eek: ). Is this OK with stock frictions? Should I get a new cover or will the old one do? New release bearing? Do I really need a urethane bush for the pedal shaft bit?

The push rod tubes are rusty so could do with replacing. Are the telescopic type sensible? Do I just cut up the old ones to get them off?

I'm also thinking of 1.25 rockers. Can I just fit the arms or should I get full assemblies - Scat or similar? I'll be sticking with a stock cam and low revs. Are they easy to fit and set up?

TIA
Sam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,482 Posts
I think you may be asking too many difficult questions at once. :)

If you can find the OEM seal, get that. The silicone ones have poor
reputation.

Before doing anything though, measure the crank endfloat.
Excessive float (over 0.15mm) is a frequent cause of seal failure.

100hp sounds like a lot to me. Will that be a good match for the
gearbox ratios in there now?

Yes, use the telescoping tubes. Pull the pushrods out (mark where
they came from!) and collapse the old tubes.

See if this stirs up a bit more discussion at least...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,482 Posts
The flywheel must be on and all the shims in place.
Not necessary to torque it, just tighten down the nut a bit.

With the flywheel off, there will normally be a great deal of play.

A dial indicator is the preferred tool to measure the play, but this
DIY method works reasonably well. Pull the flywheel all the way out,
then adjust the bolt till it hits the flywheel. Next, push the flywheel
in and use a set of feeler gauges to determine the size of the gap
between the bolt and flywheel.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,620 Posts
I hope you realise the complexities of converting to (presulmably aftermarket) FI let alone turbo/superchargin one!

I woud start with mild tuning such as ratio rockers and twin carbs / merged exhaust. You can get bolt on tubo kits but they are expensive and you really want to be starting with a well built newish engine in my opinion if you want to go down this route.

With regard to the oil seals...I am buggered if I know! I remember the Silicon ones were meant to be better, but of late seem to be failing a lot. I would/ am going with standard style! Check for end float as above before changing te oil seal though.

If it is jsut rusty push rod tubes and they aint leaking too bad, I'd leave them! Maybe give em a lick of high temp engine paint or curust?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've built a couple of megasquirts for other engines, with all the help around I found it *fairly* straightforward.

Can't see the point in carbs nowadays unless it's for retro reasons. Pump, reg, throttle body and injector from a scrappy, swirl pot and some fuel lines, megasquirt and a couple of hours on a RR. All for less than a set of carbs. Then you've got the fuel savings afterwards.

I will be giving the engine a rebuild before I look at forced induction, but need it on the road as it is for the summer.

You're prolly right on the pushrod tubes. I'll paint 'em. :)

My current seal is red, which presumably makes it a silicone one and might explain the failure? I'll spend the tenner and get an OEM job.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top