i'd guess vacuum leak in the inlet manifold, maybe... you're gonna have to do some detective work though! and it sounds like a brew might go down nicely too! good luck!
Engine running issues AGAIN!!!
Right here we go again! This engine is starting to really wind me up now!
I rebuild my engine, and have got it back in the car. I have set the valve clearances, set the points, static timed it and everything is on as it should be.
I have also set the carb to the factory setting, and had it to bits no end of times today. Also the auto choke has been disabled too.
It fires up straight away, but revs its nuts off then dies. If you pump the throttle it will keep running until you stop then it will die again. It keeps spitting from the top of the carb as its getting loads of fuel (maybe too much?)
I am totally stumped now, and have been outside in the rain since 930am trying to sort it, and im no further along
Has anyone got any ideas?
I rebuild my engine, and have got it back in the car. I have set the valve clearances, set the points, static timed it and everything is on as it should be.
I have also set the carb to the factory setting, and had it to bits no end of times today. Also the auto choke has been disabled too.
It fires up straight away, but revs its nuts off then dies. If you pump the throttle it will keep running until you stop then it will die again. It keeps spitting from the top of the carb as its getting loads of fuel (maybe too much?)
I am totally stumped now, and have been outside in the rain since 930am trying to sort it, and im no further along
Has anyone got any ideas?
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
have you tried wetting the manifold boots to check for air leakages?
Just a thought
Just a thought
Why have you disabled the choke and how have you done it ?
It sounds like an air leak.
Check list -
New gasket between carb and manifold.
Blanking plug still in place on carb body.
No open pipes on carb or inlet manifold - everything should be either connected or blanked off.
Check the rubber vac hoses to the air filter and distributor carefully - the rubber often cracks underneath the cotton braid.
Manifolds bolted to head with new gaskets (preferably card ones if it's a twinport - the tin gaskets can leak.)
Tinware trapped between manifold and head meaning the manifold can't seal fully.
Washers dropped over the inlet manifold studs before fitting the manifold end castings (Voice of experience)
Hose (jubilee) clips used to seal the rubber manifold boots instead of the proper VW ones - Ordinary clips pinch the rubber where they join and can cause air leaks especially if overtightened.
Use a length of flexy pipe to listen around the engine for the sound of air being sucked in. Fuel pipe is good but you can use hosepipe. A better method than using WD40 IMHO.
Dave.
It sounds like an air leak.
Check list -
New gasket between carb and manifold.
Blanking plug still in place on carb body.
No open pipes on carb or inlet manifold - everything should be either connected or blanked off.
Check the rubber vac hoses to the air filter and distributor carefully - the rubber often cracks underneath the cotton braid.
Manifolds bolted to head with new gaskets (preferably card ones if it's a twinport - the tin gaskets can leak.)
Tinware trapped between manifold and head meaning the manifold can't seal fully.
Washers dropped over the inlet manifold studs before fitting the manifold end castings (Voice of experience)
Hose (jubilee) clips used to seal the rubber manifold boots instead of the proper VW ones - Ordinary clips pinch the rubber where they join and can cause air leaks especially if overtightened.
Use a length of flexy pipe to listen around the engine for the sound of air being sucked in. Fuel pipe is good but you can use hosepipe. A better method than using WD40 IMHO.
Dave.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
