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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hiya

Failed MOT this morning because the "dipswitch not deflecting all main beam headlamps to make them dipped beams"

it seems possible that the dipped and high beams are wired round the wrong way, however, according to speedy jims headlamp wiring diagram they are correct.



Can someone pls confirm to me which of these filaments on the VW Heritage H4 halogen bulbs is the dipped beam, and which is the high beam? Is there any reason why these particular bulbs would be different to speedy jims diagram?



I have not ever touched the wiring at the relay or h/l switch since last years MOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Actually, while I am here (stupid question time)


Can I just double check absolutely sure that I am right about how the headlights work?


Pull out once for side lights

Pull out twice for the main beams.

Pull the indicator stalk for high beams?




Does everyone elses high beams only stay on when you hold indicator stalk back? Every other car (non-Beetle) I have driven you can turn them on and off, but not mine.
 

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Pull out once for side lights

Pull out twice for the main beams.

Pull the indicator stalk for high beams?
Yeah thats right, BUT u say you have to hold the indicator stork???:confused: is normal that you just flick it towards you and the high beams stay on (well is on my 72) although when i 1st got mien it needed a certain touch;)
afraid a cant help you with the dip switch question though, COULD just be that the lights are set too high?
 

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Does everyone elses high beams only stay on when you hold indicator stalk back? Every other car (non-Beetle) I have driven you can turn them on and off, but not mine.
Depending on the year of the car the headlights will only stay where you switch them (main or dipped) when you have the ign switched on along with the headlight switch.
Yes, to how the switch works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hmm.

yeah ok could be the relay then

moby - i checked and both filaments are not lit at the same time


carbon - yes, its aftermarket steering wheel - I've never been able to click on and off on these.

dub_crazee - its a GSF replacement mexico relay, as I recall Moby made a comment about it being not very similar to a usual standard relay last year when i was troubleshooting it...


Ok perhaps I will try the original relay and see what happens there, I still have it somewhere.




As far as the filaments go - I'm thinking the dipped filament is the one with the little metal shield over it? - correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorted

It was the relay. Had a mexican GSF one on there for the last year, just replaced it with the original (untested) german one, and hey presto.

pull back once - click - dipped beam
pull back twice - click - high beam

no idea how it passed last years MOT then because it's always been like that.


thanks all.
 

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ha ha no its booked in for 1030am tomorrow though

I just need to tighten up the front left wheel bearing and jobs done

free retest too, excellent!
Be careful, there should be some play in your front wheel bearings. It is not like the rear end of a Golf or similar which is the standard to which MOT testers want to work. Have you got a manual Haynes or Bentley will do read the relevant section and take it with you to the MOT test and point out to the tester what it says. I've seen 2 Bays recently with shot front wheel bearings due to being over tightened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hmm, good advice

this is actually the very same wheel that came off last year due to over tightened bearings

however, there does appear to be a fair bit of play in there. i've not compared it to the other side as i only have this one on the jack stand at the moment, but i presume its more otherwise he wouldn't have said anything.



i cannot get the wheel cap off (the thing the speedo cable hooks into)

any ideas? its getting dark. I can't hook anything behind it to pull it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i've tried screwdirvers, all that happens is the screwdrivers bend and the brake disc starts to get distorted ....



however, just got the other side up to check on the play, and to be honest it might bit a bit more but not much more that the right hand side, which still has noticable play.


if i can't get the cap off perhaps i'l leave it and see what he says tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok , got the cap off, 2 screwdrivers, minimal damage to the brake disc

its got noticeable play without the wheel on - the other side has some with the wheel on, but only left/right, and not up/down

this one moves a fair bit even with the wheel off, so i think he may have a point.


I don't have a torque wrench - i dont want to overtighten it so not sure what i should do now...
 

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I might have confused myself as well as you. Basically you should see something like a big washer that is held on by the retainer. Tighten up so that you can just slide the washer from side to side with a screw driver and see how much play you now have. It's acrude way of doing it but it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok Clarkson that sounds good

At present the retainer is facing to 3 o clock. If I move it to say, 1 o clock, or even maybe 2, there is no play at all

So I think the name of the game is small adjustments at a time.


Will do it in the morning, it's dark now. Although at least I can go and test my headlamps!
 
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