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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone got any pics of swapping frameheads from 1303 type to balljoint and what problems you encountered i have just taken mine off and offered up new one but dont like the look of the fitment
any help would be appreciated
 

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old gh bug said:
Anyone got any pics of swapping frameheads from 1303 type to balljoint and what problems you encountered i have just taken mine off and offered up new one but dont like the look of the fitment
any help would be appreciated
How will you line up the new framehead?
You will probably need to use some sort of frame or jig made using a standard ball joint floorpan.
 

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I done mine with the body off, Set the pan up on axle stand.
Got a 6 ft level and set the pan up level front and rear.
I cut the tunnel just in front of the nelsons hat.
The new frame head had to be cut to slid in to the old tunnel.
Used a level to get the new frame head level and took measurements from the new frame head where the beam bolts on to the edge of the nelsons hat where it meets the floor pan to get square.
Then tack welded in place, then double checked all levels and measurements, then fully welded.
The under side of the new frame head on the tunnel part had a small plate welded on because not quite matched up.
Because I had no body on or engine I just pivited the whole chassis over on the rear wheels to weld the underside ( on my own ).
I hope Ive not made it sound hard because it was easy.
Mine was a 1302s pan which I converted. steers great and is level.
All the best Paulus. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info Paulus did you use a new framehead as the one i have does not seem wide enough
the two holes either side that bolt it to the body dont match up they are not as wide as the original pan which is a 1303 did you have any problem with this i hope you understand the bit what i am trying to describe
 

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are you trying to fit a balljoint front axle to a whole super beelte?
 

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1302

Hi Guys, sounds like your on a similar mission. I am pondering how i can get the look of a ball joint front end and retain the rest of the car. I have a cheap 1302 to restore and really prefer the look of a balljoint bonnet, or earlier 67 type. Would you know if i can cut the front nose off, add the desired bonnet and fix in (WELD) a new front nose, and wings to suit the image, any troubles foreseen??? PLS help, Cheers
 

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Hi Guys, sounds like your on a similar mission. I am pondering how i can get the look of a ball joint front end and retain the rest of the car. I have a cheap 1302 to restore and really prefer the look of a balljoint bonnet, or earlier 67 type. Would you know if i can cut the front nose off, add the desired bonnet and fix in (WELD) a new front nose, and wings to suit the image, any troubles foreseen??? PLS help, Cheers
 

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Bernice said:
Hi Guys, sounds like your on a similar mission. I am pondering how i can get the look of a ball joint front end and retain the rest of the car. I have a cheap 1302 to restore and really prefer the look of a balljoint bonnet, or earlier 67 type. Would you know if i can cut the front nose off, add the desired bonnet and fix in (WELD) a new front nose, and wings to suit the image, any troubles foreseen??? PLS help, Cheers
I think someone on here has done this conversion, but it is a lot of work and expense. The whole front end from the scuttle onwards needs to be replaced i.e inner wings, wings,boot floor, front apron, wheel well etc. Unless the rest of the body is mint I would have thought you would be better off sourcing a good balljoint shell and sticking it on your floorpan.
 

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You'd be better off buying a standarrd beetle if you prefer that look. The work involved is mammoth. The chassis could be converted then a standard beetle shell put on it, but this is lots of work for little gain unless you need the IRS - usually only worth while if you are gonna put a monster in the back
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No sorry if i have misled you all i have a 1303 pan and want to put my 69 shell on it as i have a 901 box to go in it aswell so need the irs
 

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Right, makes it a bit more plausable then.

The framehead must be aligned millimetrically correct otherwise the car will never track true. It also has to be on dead level otherwise it will not fit correctly. "nearly" isn't good enough here because its the chassis that you are welding.

Volkskraft in Lincoln are good, have seen one come out of there that was jigged and lazer leveled. Didn't cost the earth either, well worth it for piece of mind and to make sure you don't beggar the part.

Heritage sell the frame head piece, but it will need drilling for the master cylinder.

Hope this helps. Also how easy was it to fit the 901 'box? Or haven't you done that yet?

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I haven't fitted the box yet to this chassis but did one quite a few years ago not that big a problem if you have the body off
The first one i did was an early 901 box i think as it had only 4 bolts to the drive shafts and i had to make up some adaptor plates for it
used landrover engine mounts for the front mounting with a bit of box section across to the A arm pivots ( you can now get cast alloy version but looks expensive ) had to do usual clearancing for clutch cable but worked well had a type 4 stuck on back of it
 

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Hello Mate
The question about the holes mine lined up.
The frame head was complete up to the nelsons hat ( this is the part the master cylinder bolts to) .
This was quite costley conversion as I had buy the complete ball joint beam set up, Even buying the stuff of E .bay and from this site.
And replaceing the ball joints on the arm track rod ends etc.
But my buggy steers and brakes great and no doggy rear camber the car sits great.
regards Paulus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Paulus looks like i am going to have to get that bit i have a framehead but without the napoleon hat bit / but have all the beam etc as it is on my bug at the mo / hopefully will do body swap onto new pan etc when done

Does anyone know what the difference between 1303 and ball joint napoleon hat is ??
 
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